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AP1/2 Sub Frame Rigid Collar Kit
#42
Has anyone realized just how EASY it would be to make this yourselves. Assuming you have a lathe or have access to a lathe, it would be INCREDIBLY easy to do this! Once you have the dimensions down, churning out 20 or 30 of these things, even in a pricier material like aluminum, would be very fast. You could possibly even get a machine shop to do a run of say...50 of them for maybe a couple hundred dollars. All you would need to supply is the technical drawing.
All this being said, buying them is still 20x easier.
All this being said, buying them is still 20x easier.
Retorquing your bolts... because your subframe isn't moving if you do.
#43
Hi all,my first post
Have a cheep version on my mc2 <aerodeck 1.8vti>£35-40 <s/steel and has one side of the fixing only, the bolt head side> noticed a better pointy feel,the bolt faces had a polished surface on them indicating movement on the contact areas,<and where tight>
the MC2 are same fitment as itr R ?<same subframe>so not sure on s2000 dimensions atm
may look into installing them on my facelift int looked at the underside as yet,only had it 2 days will soon get a Geo test and have a nose then
Have a cheep version on my mc2 <aerodeck 1.8vti>£35-40 <s/steel and has one side of the fixing only, the bolt head side> noticed a better pointy feel,the bolt faces had a polished surface on them indicating movement on the contact areas,<and where tight>
the MC2 are same fitment as itr R ?<same subframe>so not sure on s2000 dimensions atm
may look into installing them on my facelift int looked at the underside as yet,only had it 2 days will soon get a Geo test and have a nose then
#44
These work guys, not sure on the play of a s2000 as im a 8th gen si owner. I have the rigid collars on my si and they made the car feel overall more planted solid and not as loose over bumps and whatnot. Its expensive but what isn't that spoon or mugen make. Im hoping to become a s2000 owner soon as I got my eyes open for one. Then sell the Si.
#45
If you look at the main areas of stress on a subframe under load, the areas around the bolts carry a lot of it. The gap makes it less rigid and prone to deflection. Retorquing the subframe bolts will help as bolted joints do lose some clampload/tension over time. Some people will stiffen up the subframe with gussets or additional panels and welds. Filling in the gap around the bolts with collars further stiffens up (increases torsional stiffness of) the joint and reduces deflection of the subframe. Less deflection means improved response, less delay when load shifts - such as hitting bumps/curbs or high lateral g turns. This can make steering more true (stable) and helps make damping more precise. Sticky tires, stiffer springs, bigger sway bars - anything that loads the chassis - would work better with these collars. Not everyone will be able to feel it and the degree of improvement will be different for each car. The engineering behind these is very sound.
#46
i think id like to keep that 'play' in there in case I crash the car. instead, im making a pair of perfectly fitting alignment tools that make checking subframe alignment effortless
#48
#49
These definately do work. And definately help with bump stability. Its taking a gap and filling it... Its not going to be game changing... But then again neither is a strut tower bar.... A cai .... Fender bars. Sure they may not do much... But they do something and thats what matters. Putting a bunch of small improvements together to make a big difference
#50
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