zeroptzero

S4play had a post where he covered the entire cabin including the doors with soundproofing materials, he said it was very effective.

That was done to his older yellow s2000,but I am pretty sure he did the same thing to a newer white s2000 that he had recently.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/index.php...&f=26&t=365405

scottsheck

I've removed my seats and carpet and used dynamat on the inside cabin area, and have used b-quiet in the trunk. I really haven't noticed any improvement.

davidc1

but, you have not replaced the carpet?

cosmomiller

If you do some research on what certain NVH products do, you will understand what happened. The B Quiet and Dynamat (only need 35% coverage) deaden resonance and provide a limited barrier. You need a barrier to block acoustic sound. I used 3M Thinsulate on top of my B Quiet. Its super light and is compressible. I am still astonished at the effect. Its a completely new car and the stress from driving on interstates top up with the wife is so much less. Most of the time I am top down and now the sound of engine comes from around the car instead of up through the floor and behind me.


https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/107...#entry23139579



https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/108...#entry23181666

solitarycheese

Here's a good link to the TSB

I did this last night. That EPT stuff is hard to find and about $50 for a roll. You only need a tiny amount to quiet the latches. I bought some foam weatherstripping tape at a hardware store for $2 and it worked great.

The lithium grease on the soft top hinges helps a lot, but be careful with overspray, it will dissolve plastic. I made the mistake of spraying some in my latches and it dissolved some of the plastic components, ruining the latch .

Shin-Etsu grease on top and window seals should be part of your regular maintenance (manual calls for it every 3-6 months). It will extend the life of the seals and help reduce wind noise/leaks.

marketappeal

Much of the car's noise comes from the engine and exhaust, so I imagine that the front and rear panels that separate the cabin from the engine bay and boot (trunk) are the ones that make the biggest difference. Doing the doors etc. will help your stereo, but otherwise isn't addressing the main issue. Also, as someone just said, dynamat is primarily designed to dampen panel resonance, making it ideal for damping tinny doors, but one layer isn't enough to do much as a broader acoustic insulator.

scottsheck

yes, i put the carpet back in.

cosmomiller

yes, i put the carpet back in.
[/quote]
Did you use something on the tunnel and/or the doors? What coverage did you do and what variety of dynamat and b quiet did you use?

I do think insulation on top of the resonance barrier, thinsulate in my case, was very effective. The fiber threads are 1/4 to 1/2 the wavelength of typical noises. Hard to get though. I actually stopped any instal forward of the front edge of the seat and firewall because I thought it would take out too much engine noise. I like to hear it rev but when I drop it in low gear engine noise falls off the map.

Here is the top:


https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/111...ation-install/

qbnlykwhoa

I recently installed a subwoofer in the trunk and some components in the doors, and in order to reduce rattles and unwanted vibration and noise, deadened the trunk and doors. I followed the deadening up with a layer of 1/2 inch acoustic sound foam, and then a thin layer of 1/8 ccf. Just doing the trunk and doors like this has already created a difference. The car is noticeably quieter and most of the noise I hear now is coming from the engine and transmission. I'm planning to do the same treatment on the floor in the cabin when I swap my seats out.

scottsheck

I only used dynomat on the sides of the tunnel, not the top part. Also, I did not do the doors at all since it didn't seem like noise was coming from there. It really sounds like the noise all comes from the rear corners