Nothing else is needed the way I did it, one end of the hose has the BSP threads for the block, the other end has an adapter fitting to thread into the AEM sensor. AEM supplies the sensor, and all of the wiring you need to get to the cabin. I removed the oem sensor, and plumbed in the new hose and attached it to the AEM sensor with the proper fitting/adapter, then ran the wiring into the cabin to pick up power and ground and plugged into the gauge.

Some people run a longer braided hose to the frame in the engine bay and use a vacuum block T, so there are a few ways to do it depending on what you need. I kept it simple. I didn't see the benefit of keeping the factory sensor, so I just removed it.

I never did water temp gauge setups, so not sure what is needed there. I don't see a big need for water temp info. , I think my scangauge provides accurate water temp data if I ever needed it, easy plug into the obd2 port any time I need to check it.

 

Fair enough.

Where there any issues by removing the factory OEM sensor? CEL's or codes being thrown?

You should assemble these and sell them for a small profit. I would be happy to pay for one knowing I got exactly what I needed, assembled and all I had to do was thread it into the block, and thread in my sensor

***EDIT***

Found a place online where you can order hoses to be made... Does this info look right?

1/4" SAE 100R14A PTFE Hose Assembly

(This is a stainless braided hose, rated for -65°F to +450°F and 3,000 PSI)

Fitting 1: MBSPT-04-02 | 1/8" BSPT Male
Fitting 2: FP-04-02 | 1/8" NPTF Female Pipe

Does it matter what the material of the fittings are? From the website "all hose fittings shown below are steel with anti-corrosive plating"

Website that builds to order

 

That looks like pretty much all you need, I think those are the correct fitting ends, it's been a couple years since I did one, just double check the size of the aem sensor and the oem sensor, but I believe those are correct. Decide where you want to connect the sensor and then figure out the length you need, having a couple more inches will make the bend of the hose smoother, so consider adding a couple more inches if it helps.

Removing the oem sensor does not trigger any codes or lights, the sensor only activates when it gets a low pressure reading, once it is gone nothing is transmitted back to the ecu. You just need to tie up the end of the wire that connects to the sensor. When you thread in the new hose just thread it in snug, don't over-tighten it. I used a high temp sealant on the threads that is made by Permatex, the same company that makes Loctite, they have a high temp sealant, or you could use Teflon tape.

 

Sounds good. What did you use to create that bracket where it holds the sensor end?

 

It's one of those clamps that have rubber around the edge,and have a hole on one end to bolt in place. I think they are an automotive application. You see smaller versions often used to hold wiring looms and bolted in place, but I used a larger sized one to hold the sensor. I used smaller ones on the wiring that I ran towards the firewall within the engine bay, and one large one on the sensor.

I clamped a larger one around the AEM sensor, it was somewhat tight but I was worried about it coming loose with vibrations. I then filled in the surrounding open space with gobs of Permatex Gasket Sealer - Ultra Black. Once it hardens up it holds the sensor tightly and helps to provide extra grip against vibrations. It's almost like an engine mount now ,lol, it's been solid for over 2 years of driving. I used a small 90 degree angled metal
bracket hanging off the TCT mounting bolt, easy enough to make up out of any small bracket type material. I then bolted the clamp to the bracket to get it facing the right direction.

Installed with gasket sealer filler


These are the smaller sized ones, I used them to run the wiring through the engine bay, and one larger sized one for the sensor

 

is there a way to configure a temp sensor into this as well so you dont have to tap the oil pan?

 

I've never seen the parts used for oil temp sensor kits, so it's hard for me to comment on that. But it seems that everyone taps the pan, so I have to think that if it hasn't been invented yet then it likely isn't feasible, but I could be wrong.

FWIW, I got the inspiration for a flexible oil pressure line from The Old One's website, I just used different parts to make it work for my engine bay, good reading , check out the link below:

http://theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/

 

Awesome shit, this is the route I will go. Any recommendations for a water temp that would be as reliable and easy for access?

 

I was watching the Ass2000 video, and seen they were using a Mishimoto plate where they connected an oil temp sensor to it, see the video around the 6:34 mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3VM...WMsFG&index=12

 

I am using a Mishimoto oil filter sandwich plate adapter for both oil pressure and oil temperature. Works great now but had some problems initially with a minute oil leak. Finally traced it down to a bad thread in the sandwhich plate where I mounted the oil temperature sender. Re-cut the thread and replaced the sender. Have not had any issues since. I did this about 1 1/2 years ago.