Here's some of mine, finally lowered on Konis and Ground Controls. Lowered maybe 15mm all around, I think I may drop the front just a touch more. Right now it's a 'tight' two finger gap at the rear, and a 'loose' two finger gap at the front.

No fender mods needed so far, though the rear rubs justa justa over large bumps, and only on the plastic part of the fender / bumper. I may trim it a bit. No metal rubbing.

It's the usual 17x8, 17x9 fitment, +45 all around. 215s and 245s. UK spec alignment before it was lowered, haven't yet had it aligned again. I wonder if I may have to do some more rear fender work once it's aligned again.

Pix, plus a gratuitous shot of the bespoke Ground Control top mount. Unfortunately, most of the lovely piece is hidden underneath!

 

were can u buy the black rpf1s? im looking to get them this week

 

Tirerack has them /\

 

^but only in skinny non concave fitment for the rear. But if you want convex wheels with only a 8" rear then they can hook you up.

Gruppe-S has the pre-order on now for the standard 17x8, 17x9 +45 fitment

 

so if I want 17's what do u guys recomend? I want something aggresive.

 

how aggresive?

you can go, which is most common and you get the sunkface rears but not fronts (gives good contrast IMO)
17x8+45 Front you will need to roll if you go to a 225 and your lowered more then an inch
17x9+45 Rear I reccomend to roll if lowered over an inch and you plan to run a 245 or 255 rear tire, 245 may clear with jsut neg camber but 255 requires both

or slightly more aggresive
17x9+45 Front
17x9+45 Rear I reccomend to roll if lowered over an inch and you plan to run a 245 or 255 rear tire, 245 may clear with jsut neg camber but 255 requires both

or more aggresive
17x9+45 Front or 17x8 +45 Front (same as above)
17x9+38 rear

or the most aggresive RPF1 set-up I have heard of on an S2k
17x9+38 Front and Rear

green= neg camber and roll
red= neg camber and roll and fender flare

I hope this makes sense. Remember this is just my opinion, some people get away without rolling with certain sizes but trial and error sucks so I would roll just to be safe

 

^I really hope that kind of helps you out

 

Yes I know, that's my point. If you increase the stagger, you're making a car that already has a tendency to understeer, understeer even more. You kept the same size front tire (which is too small OEM anyways, that's why the car understeers instead of being neutral) and gave it a bigger rear tire, causing even more rear grip enhancing the understeer effect. A bigger front sway bar would make it understeer EVEN more! With that set up before you even get into shock/spring tuning your car would plow.

Now, getting into the spring set up, you are running same stiffness springs which is different from OEM (stiffer front than rear) so that added stiffness in the rear is dialing out some of the understeer but IMO you'd have to do some serious shock tuning and adjustment not to mention alignment work to counter the lack of front tire compared to rear tire as well as the bigger front sway. Usually guys run a bigger sway bar in the front only when they are giving the front end more tire decreasing the size of stagger. A softer front suspension or stiffer rear would dial out the understeer. That's why I asked how soft your front set up is. Hope that helps. Good luck with the set up and :thumbsup: for some awesome track coilovers!!!

Sorry for the hi-jack, more pics of Replica Formula 1's !!!

 

You mean a car that tends to oversteer naturally, right? This car, even in the latest AP2 guise is known for oversteer, not understeer -- that is of course if you're driving within your limits and entering corners within limits.

If you enter too hot, and expect the car to turn then any car would naturally understeer.

In steady-state cornering, I've found that the pedal on the right helps with understeer. Press more gas, and the nose turns towards your desired line

 

hahax2 and with my wider rear tires I can push that pedal more then before