Official Enkei RPF1 Thread
12-08-2008 | 12:40 PM
#1162
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Joined: Jun 2007
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Originally Posted by Mykeee,Dec 8 2008, 01:37 PM
front 17x8 +45
rear 17x9 +45
dropped about an inch
rear 17x9 +45
dropped about an inch
12-08-2008 | 01:14 PM
#1164
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 296
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From: Glastonbury, CT
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Dec 7 2008, 07:21 PM
Thats a much better pic, thanks. You are getting there, I can see how you would be concerned. But you are at no rick of damaging your fenders if you lower. What i would do in your case is perform the drop first, your wheels will automatically increase in camber, tucking in. If you are at -2 now in the resr you will be close to -3 with another 1" drop. The front will tuck about the same as well. Once you have done the drop take it to get aligned, you should anyway after a suspention drop due to your toe settings being increased. I take mine to a local Les Schwab where I can hang out with the tech and I can inspect my car and give feedback wile he is making the adjustments. This is what i recomend you do. You will be able to see what camber you can adjust to for proper clearance.
fyi for you, no more then -3 in the rear, if it looks like you need to run more then this (which you wont) then you trim to maintain withen that spec. Rear toe works best withen factory spec, front camber is good up to -4 but I wouldnt run that on the street. I run mine between -2 and -3 depending on what size tires I want to run at the time. Curently at -2.2. Run factory front caster, its 6 degrees and no front toe is needed at all, this will save your tires, also handes good. But with a two inch drop you want to run at least factory spec toe in the rear for best grip in the high speed corners, more is better but too much will give up forward acceleration and tire wear. Well thats my experience, hope that helps you.
fyi for you, no more then -3 in the rear, if it looks like you need to run more then this (which you wont) then you trim to maintain withen that spec. Rear toe works best withen factory spec, front camber is good up to -4 but I wouldnt run that on the street. I run mine between -2 and -3 depending on what size tires I want to run at the time. Curently at -2.2. Run factory front caster, its 6 degrees and no front toe is needed at all, this will save your tires, also handes good. But with a two inch drop you want to run at least factory spec toe in the rear for best grip in the high speed corners, more is better but too much will give up forward acceleration and tire wear. Well thats my experience, hope that helps you.
12-08-2008 | 01:26 PM
#1166
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Joined: Jun 2007
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Originally Posted by ohthunderroad,Dec 8 2008, 02:14 PM
Thanks so much for your advice. I think once I take it out in the spring, those are the basic steps I will follow. Take Care. Walter
12-08-2008 | 11:13 PM
#1168
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Redwood City, Ca
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Dec 7 2008, 08:43 PM
^^^
You rubbing in the front and rear or just the rear? You have another -1 camber to go in the back if needed before cutting. But I would just plan on cutting the rear regardless anyway even if you dont need it right now. Once you lower your clearences are going to be tighter and your camber will increase, leave it at -2 and cut the fenders, then when you lower your car will be about -3 and you can fine tune it from there. If you dont want to cut, then go for -2.5 in the back and 2.5 up front if needed. I'm suprised you rub actually with that much wheel gap right now. Those Kumos profile must really bulge out on the edge and you must be really taking some hard hits, quit jumping your car
your cloivers will be stiffer and more damping will help you.
You rubbing in the front and rear or just the rear? You have another -1 camber to go in the back if needed before cutting. But I would just plan on cutting the rear regardless anyway even if you dont need it right now. Once you lower your clearences are going to be tighter and your camber will increase, leave it at -2 and cut the fenders, then when you lower your car will be about -3 and you can fine tune it from there. If you dont want to cut, then go for -2.5 in the back and 2.5 up front if needed. I'm suprised you rub actually with that much wheel gap right now. Those Kumos profile must really bulge out on the edge and you must be really taking some hard hits, quit jumping your car
your cloivers will be stiffer and more damping will help you.
12-08-2008 | 11:20 PM
#1169
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Originally Posted by Madseen,Dec 9 2008, 12:13 AM
Do you recommend tightening the steering?
Since these wheels are so much lighter and wider then stock, the steering response is quicker. Your thoughs, thanks.
Since these wheels are so much lighter and wider then stock, the steering response is quicker. Your thoughs, thanks.
And yes enjoy! Now your starting to experience what the S is capable of. Should handle much like a stock ap1 now
Now that your car is more sensitive, responding and sticking to the next level, having it balanced front to back is more important as everything is going to happen quicker, the good and the bad lol, ap2's are softer in the rear on stock sways and suspension with a tendency to push at the limit to be more forgiving and numb. If your on stiffer springs now, i don't know the weight, you can play with your spring pre load settings and damping to fine tune how the car handles in a turn, whether it still pushes or over steers. Adding pre load or damping in the back will increase your overseer more if its still pushing. You want it balanced really 50/50 or neutral in other words, being able to induce under or over steer just by throttle application, and in a coast have the car drift all 4 wheels.
