<><>WALBRO 255 VS. KENNE BELL BOOST-A-PUMP
04-09-2009, 01:43 PM
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<><>WALBRO 255 VS. KENNE BELL BOOST-A-PUMP
I have just realized from several members on the boards that I could run the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump alone without upgrading to a Walbro 255 fuel pump.. 
The previous owner who had this kit that I purchased had no issues with running the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump with the VORTECH SUPERCHARGER.. 
So should I just run the same setup? Will this be better or produce the same results? After all I have 2 of these units, 1 that came with it, and 1 that I bought..
Or should I just sell the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pumps and buy a Walbro 255?
My original plan was to install both, but it looks like that would be useless?
I don't know... Please chime in Boosters.....
Thank you again
The previous owner who had this kit that I purchased had no issues with running the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump with the VORTECH SUPERCHARGER.. So should I just run the same setup? Will this be better or produce the same results? After all I have 2 of these units, 1 that came with it, and 1 that I bought..
Or should I just sell the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pumps and buy a Walbro 255?
My original plan was to install both, but it looks like that would be useless?
I don't know... Please chime in Boosters.....
Thank you again
04-09-2009, 01:52 PM
#2
The boost-a-pump was designed to work without retuning the car, ie 21st century solution to the FMU. With the injectors and EMS it is pointless really. So there is no need for both, the Walbro is cleaner, quieter and will handle more power than your head unit can dish out. I have run booster pumps in the past but that was due to a difficult pump install. Our cars have a very easy to access pump. I bet you could sell the boost-a-pump for much more that the Walbro anyway.
04-10-2009, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by dsddcd,Apr 9 2009, 01:52 PM
The boost-a-pump was designed to work without retuning the car, ie 21st century solution to the FMU. With the injectors and EMS it is pointless really. So there is no need for both, the Walbro is cleaner, quieter and will handle more power than your head unit can dish out. I have run booster pumps in the past but that was due to a difficult pump install. Our cars have a very easy to access pump. I bet you could sell the boost-a-pump for much more that the Walbro anyway.
04-10-2009, 09:32 AM
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I use both a Kenne Bell boost a pump and Walbro 255. The combination together has made for me 750 whp.
The answer to your question depends on the state of tune of your car and the amount of HP you are seeking. I suggest you measure your fuel pressure and pump voltage while boosting.
First of all the facts. As you start pushing larger volumes of fuel, your pump will draw more current and the voltage across the pump will drop. As the voltage drops the pump slows down and delivers less fuel. Even though your alternator may put out 14 odd volts, you may in boosted cars see only 11V or so at your fuel pump. Fuel pumps love the extra voltage - I run mine at 18V. It uses less current for the same work which translates into less heat in the motor windings.
A Walbro uses more current and can heat up the fuel pump wiring (over time) making it brittle. Heaver gauge wires to the fuel pump are a plus whether running a stock or aftermarket pump and can help increase the pump voltage and pumping capacity.
Our recent tests on a boosted Honda with a non return fuel system, show that on a car pushing about 10 psi of boost, the fuel pressure at the fuel rail drops from 65 to 55 psi from idle to redline. (This car was making 300 HP) Then we moved the fuel pressure gauge to the tank. There the fuel pressure dropped from 65 to 60 psi. This says that we can increase the fuel pressure in two ways:
1) Running larger lines from tank to rail. I'd expect a 3-4 PSI improvement
2) Bumping fuel pump voltage under boost or installing a bigger pump. I'd expect another 3-4 psi.
The answer to your question depends on the state of tune of your car and the amount of HP you are seeking. I suggest you measure your fuel pressure and pump voltage while boosting.
First of all the facts. As you start pushing larger volumes of fuel, your pump will draw more current and the voltage across the pump will drop. As the voltage drops the pump slows down and delivers less fuel. Even though your alternator may put out 14 odd volts, you may in boosted cars see only 11V or so at your fuel pump. Fuel pumps love the extra voltage - I run mine at 18V. It uses less current for the same work which translates into less heat in the motor windings.
A Walbro uses more current and can heat up the fuel pump wiring (over time) making it brittle. Heaver gauge wires to the fuel pump are a plus whether running a stock or aftermarket pump and can help increase the pump voltage and pumping capacity.
Our recent tests on a boosted Honda with a non return fuel system, show that on a car pushing about 10 psi of boost, the fuel pressure at the fuel rail drops from 65 to 55 psi from idle to redline. (This car was making 300 HP) Then we moved the fuel pressure gauge to the tank. There the fuel pressure dropped from 65 to 60 psi. This says that we can increase the fuel pressure in two ways:
1) Running larger lines from tank to rail. I'd expect a 3-4 PSI improvement
2) Bumping fuel pump voltage under boost or installing a bigger pump. I'd expect another 3-4 psi.
04-10-2009, 01:28 PM
#5
Originally Posted by Hondata,Apr 10 2009, 09:32 AM
I use both a Kenne Bell boost a pump and Walbro 255. The combination together has made for me 750 whp.
The answer to your question depends on the state of tune of your car and the amount of HP you are seeking. I suggest you measure your fuel pressure and pump voltage while boosting.
First of all the facts. As you start pushing larger volumes of fuel, your pump will draw more current and the voltage across the pump will drop. As the voltage drops the pump slows down and delivers less fuel. Even though your alternator may put out 14 odd volts, you may in boosted cars see only 11V or so at your fuel pump. Fuel pumps love the extra voltage - I run mine at 18V. It uses less current for the same work which translates into less heat in the motor windings.
A Walbro uses more current and can heat up the fuel pump wiring (over time) making it brittle. Heaver gauge wires to the fuel pump are a plus whether running a stock or aftermarket pump and can help increase the pump voltage and pumping capacity.
Our recent tests on a boosted Honda with a non return fuel system, show that on a car pushing about 10 psi of boost, the fuel pressure at the fuel rail drops from 65 to 55 psi from idle to redline. (This car was making 300 HP) Then we moved the fuel pressure gauge to the tank. There the fuel pressure dropped from 65 to 60 psi. This says that we can increase the fuel pressure in two ways:
1) Running larger lines from tank to rail. I'd expect a 3-4 PSI improvement
2) Bumping fuel pump voltage under boost or installing a bigger pump. I'd expect another 3-4 psi.
The answer to your question depends on the state of tune of your car and the amount of HP you are seeking. I suggest you measure your fuel pressure and pump voltage while boosting.
First of all the facts. As you start pushing larger volumes of fuel, your pump will draw more current and the voltage across the pump will drop. As the voltage drops the pump slows down and delivers less fuel. Even though your alternator may put out 14 odd volts, you may in boosted cars see only 11V or so at your fuel pump. Fuel pumps love the extra voltage - I run mine at 18V. It uses less current for the same work which translates into less heat in the motor windings.
A Walbro uses more current and can heat up the fuel pump wiring (over time) making it brittle. Heaver gauge wires to the fuel pump are a plus whether running a stock or aftermarket pump and can help increase the pump voltage and pumping capacity.
Our recent tests on a boosted Honda with a non return fuel system, show that on a car pushing about 10 psi of boost, the fuel pressure at the fuel rail drops from 65 to 55 psi from idle to redline. (This car was making 300 HP) Then we moved the fuel pressure gauge to the tank. There the fuel pressure dropped from 65 to 60 psi. This says that we can increase the fuel pressure in two ways:
1) Running larger lines from tank to rail. I'd expect a 3-4 PSI improvement
2) Bumping fuel pump voltage under boost or installing a bigger pump. I'd expect another 3-4 psi.
By the way when is Hondata going to make a plug and play system forAP1 cars. I am about to intall a AEM 1052-U but would rather be installing on of your units.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...15&autoview=sku
04-29-2009, 01:47 AM
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