Vortech Super Charger Glitch
#31
Originally Posted by ayelien,Aug 3 2005, 11:04 AM
When I came back and fired it up the check engine light came on and I could not get it to run over 3000 RPM without misfiring or dropping out. I turned it on and off again a couple times but with the same problem so I limped home running just under 3 grand.
Usually if the wires leading up toe the cam sensors pull out your car will not rev over 3,000. I had the same exact same scenario and the wires in my frog harness pulled out. I would go straight to those wires in your frog harness to make sure they are intact. I'm only assuming that you have a Frog harness.
#32
Guys, if you have a Vortech equipped car that is using a "black box" or timing controller and you get any DTC pertaining to the TDC sensors, the problem is from your wiring, or the box itself.
Any of these DTC's :
P1361
P1362
P1366
P1367
As you allready know with these DTC's set, you get no rev's over 3K untill the code is cleared and stays away.
The controller is wired between the PCM and the sensors, so the TDC signals must run through the controller before going to the PCM. This is why it takes just a second longer to start the car when the timing controller is wired up. Any loose, high restance connection to the controller will cause the DTC's.
If all the wiring is perfect and it's still screwing up, the controller is faulty.
I highly reccomend not using the fold n' crimp wiring connectors that vortech supplies, the are well known for causing problems. Soldered and heat shrink, or my favorite heat and shrink butt connectors work the best.
Like these:
http://www.jmifasteners.com/page/page/277163.htm
Even Walmart sells small packs of heat and shrink butt connectors.
Any of these DTC's :
P1361
P1362
P1366
P1367
As you allready know with these DTC's set, you get no rev's over 3K untill the code is cleared and stays away.
The controller is wired between the PCM and the sensors, so the TDC signals must run through the controller before going to the PCM. This is why it takes just a second longer to start the car when the timing controller is wired up. Any loose, high restance connection to the controller will cause the DTC's.
If all the wiring is perfect and it's still screwing up, the controller is faulty.
I highly reccomend not using the fold n' crimp wiring connectors that vortech supplies, the are well known for causing problems. Soldered and heat shrink, or my favorite heat and shrink butt connectors work the best.
Like these:
http://www.jmifasteners.com/page/page/277163.htm
Even Walmart sells small packs of heat and shrink butt connectors.
#33
My specific problem only occurs when the engine changes over to VTEC. I am getting a P0336-crankshaft position sensor-range performance.
I bought my car used with the SC already installed. Do you have a wiring diagram available? Are there install instructions online somewhere?
Thanks for the help.
I bought my car used with the SC already installed. Do you have a wiring diagram available? Are there install instructions online somewhere?
Thanks for the help.
#35
The P0336, and P0335 can also be caused by the controller, and bad splices.
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...s/4hs218im.pdf
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...s/4hs218im.pdf
#36
Great explanation of the why for soldering connections!
You can get the install instructions from Vortech on line. I'm pretty sure that's where I got a copy of mine. Here are some references for you.
www.vortechsuperchargers.com
Lance keck Engine calibration engineer
lkeck@paxtonauto.com
You can get the install instructions from Vortech on line. I'm pretty sure that's where I got a copy of mine. Here are some references for you.
www.vortechsuperchargers.com
Lance keck Engine calibration engineer
lkeck@paxtonauto.com
#37
So I swapped both crank position sensors with known working ones and......
the problem is still there! I am heading out to the garage to redo all the connections for the SC install. I will be replacing all the crimped splices with soldered splices. Hopefully this does the trick.
the problem is still there! I am heading out to the garage to redo all the connections for the SC install. I will be replacing all the crimped splices with soldered splices. Hopefully this does the trick.
#38
I'm starting to get pissed off...
The main reason for buying this car was to have something fast and RELIABLE to drive while I am building up my 300ZXTT. The car is fast but not reliable it appears.
I have done the following:
Swapped out both cam sensors with known working parts
checked all spliced connections relevant to SC install
MAP whack
unplugged and re-secured all plugs under the hood (TPS, MAP, etc.)
topped off oil level to F (grasping at straws here)
I am going to call Vortech and see what they have to say...wish me luck.
The main reason for buying this car was to have something fast and RELIABLE to drive while I am building up my 300ZXTT. The car is fast but not reliable it appears.
I have done the following:
Swapped out both cam sensors with known working parts
checked all spliced connections relevant to SC install
MAP whack
unplugged and re-secured all plugs under the hood (TPS, MAP, etc.)
topped off oil level to F (grasping at straws here)
I am going to call Vortech and see what they have to say...wish me luck.
#40
I just replaced my knock sensor and all appeared well, that is until after about 50 miles my car threw the P0336 code. I too have the Vortech installed. I'm going to check my sensors and wiring, but RobZ have you figured it out yet?