Valves/Springs/Retainers
09-08-2009, 01:47 PM
#33
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by neeman77,Sep 8 2009, 01:33 PM
Take it from me, do not use stock valves above 450 whp, you are asking for trouble.
09-08-2009, 01:55 PM
#34
Originally Posted by neeman77,Sep 8 2009, 01:33 PM
Take it from me, do not use stock valves above 450 whp, you are asking for trouble.
If your running a technology that inhibits combustion heat to the point of a conservative 300whp or N/A temp, then common sense would tell me that the same build considerations wouldn't need to be made no matter what the final hp figures happen to be, its just a number. Combustion temps are where these components are rated, not HP output when you get down to it. Am i off base here?
Now where the confusion comes in may be the bottom end, HP or trq to the connecting rods for example may be rated more so at a particular energy limit because of the breaking trq of the material before heat starts becoming a factor. The way I see it in a general simple way, head/pistons needs to be built for heat, the bottom end needs to be built for strength. Now this is an over simplistic view, each engine component could be measured to determine which is more subject to heat vs stress before failure.
09-08-2009, 02:28 PM
#36
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im going to chime in with a few experience with supertech..
ive used their products on more than 5 engine builds including my own and i think they are superior in quality and customer support than others.
i wouldnt bother upgrading the valves. As said before oem are fine.
the retainers and springs i would replace for piece of mind.
ive used their products on more than 5 engine builds including my own and i think they are superior in quality and customer support than others.
i wouldnt bother upgrading the valves. As said before oem are fine.
the retainers and springs i would replace for piece of mind.
09-08-2009, 02:56 PM
#38
I have lost a motor due to the face of the valve breaking off the stem. A clean cut. When I inspected the valves closely, I found that the face of the valve was not magnetic while the stem was. This lead me to believe that the faces are stainless but the stems arent and the valve breaks off right at the seam of the two metals when it heats up. I dropped the face of the valve, messed up the block, head and turbo. Its worth the $300-$400 upgrade trust me.
I talked to Ya about the issue and he said that it was not uncommon with high hp s2000's. And I was already spraying meth.
I talked to Ya about the issue and he said that it was not uncommon with high hp s2000's. And I was already spraying meth.
09-08-2009, 03:31 PM
#40
Originally Posted by neeman77,Sep 8 2009, 02:56 PM
I have lost a motor due to the face of the valve breaking off the stem. A clean cut. When I inspected the valves closely, I found that the face of the valve was not magnetic while the stem was. This lead me to believe that the faces are stainless but the stems arent and the valve breaks off right at the seam of the two metals when it heats up. I dropped the face of the valve, messed up the block, head and turbo. Its worth the $300-$400 upgrade trust me.
I talked to Ya about the issue and he said that it was not uncommon with high hp s2000's. And I was already spraying meth.
I talked to Ya about the issue and he said that it was not uncommon with high hp s2000's. And I was already spraying meth.
You said you were spraying meth, what about water which is more effective at cooling? I wonder what kind of temps your combustion chambers were seeing to produce that failure. 450whp as mentioned in your last post is something else to keep in mind if no other data is given.