JoeyBalls

^ makes sense,when I have Jeff to my Valve job if he notices anything out of whack I will just order the valvetrain stuff then

spectacle

If you bent a valve or cracked a retainer, I think you'd probably would have known by now lol

stitos2k

The only reason to upgrade that stuff is because

A. It's broken
or
B. You want to rev higher than factory

If your answer is
C. because it might be a good idea

I'd scrap it and save your money

Spoolin

Ive spoken extensively with Ya at IP about building the head and over time with big power, the stock valves will warp from heat and eventually cause the seats to fail. If that happens to the seats, add another $250 to the head build. Also, it can cause a valve to drop over time. Stay away from Crower stuff from what i have heard. IP uses supertech valves and their own dual springs and Ti retainers. Their stuff runs about $800 for their springs and retainers and the supertech inconel exhaust valves and stainless intake valves. This is what im going with in a few weeks and is what they use on their 700 whp drag car.

JoeyBalls

ahh boy, so then maybe it might be a good idea , I dunno if 550-600RWHP constitute "big enough" power...........

dumb question, if my motor goes can these valvetrain parts be used on the new motor, or chances are these things will explode along with my motor?

Spoolin

It depends on if its a catastrophic failure or not. Lol If its a mild blow like a cracked cylinder bore or a failed ring, the head should be fine to use on a built engine. If a rod breaks though and sends the piston into the head, im sure itll be toast. Ive never heard of any rods breaking with the stock parts though.

AndyFloyd

I think i still vote for stock valves.

s2000Junky

It depends on what "goes" ...sure there is a chance that these upgraded items could be transfered to a new head. Depends on circumstance such as wear/milage, damage etc, condition of these items when your motor goes will dictate your decision to use these again or replace. 500/600hp is up there and worth considering. But seems to me heat is the biggest factor when considering parts, just because your making 550whp doesnt mean your going to be cooking your internals more so then a guy making 400whp. Motor specs aside, everything related to tune is a big part of the longevity of a motor as you know.

You use to be a big advocate of the water/meth injection. I hope you are still considering utilizing this technology on your current build as I know it will greatly increase the longevity and performance of your motor. If you have any reservations you might consider just using water to cool the combustion temps significantly and utilize the "fuel" buy conventional methods. This way your tune is not being as effected with or without it and should it fail, will not have the same cons. But with the water injection your temps wont see but a fraction of what they would normally see otherwise, and hence your build considerations.

JoeyBalls

Yeah, I am going with a few settings, low Boost & mod Boost (super conservative tune -non-meth), then high boost with 50/50mix of water/meth, for those Z06 encounters

s2000Junky

Cool, I think this will serve you well. I say go stock, and in this case id even be inclined to say dont crack the motor open and just run the factory comp/H-gasket. Lots of H-gasket failures. Something to be said for an un-cracked stock motor for reliability. If your not detonating then you dont need to lower compression and risk premature HG failures. And if your going to be utlizing meth in your mix then your detonation threshhold will be much broader then someone without. If you have a good tuner then WTF, save your money for a built motor later wile you enjoy this one at the same power level, or say F it and go with another stock motor depending on how long this one last and tell all the guys with built motors they are wasting their money, that would be cool