petawabit

Going well Yeah, and still have the suby, but started to part it out as I couldn't justify spending so much on a car I don't drive often. How's the s2k treating you?

EngineerX

Ah, yeah - I know what you mean.... darn money pits !

Well, can't beat the reliability of Hondas and it sure is fun to go around the road course. But, I'm already spoiled with the torquey flat-4, so IN goes the turbo on the S.
Still got loads of $$ to save and spend (wheels, tires, meth injection, tune)

dsddcd

To start, I still think on a whole Greddy did a great job, and the Turbo is very nice, in fact the quality is the very best I have seen. I was going down the same road with the Greddy kit and found the ATP unit that I was going to purchase with the 0.82 AR but found that there are more options available as an upgrade. I spoke with Ya at Inline Pro about this a while back Precision makes a comparable unit with a Ball Bearing cartridge that similar to the unit ATP sells for nearly the same cost or less.

Most of what you need to know you want to explore all of your options regards ensuring proper fitment. The Greddy manifold uses a different exhaust Flange and 5 bolt (Not the Ford Style) exhaust outlet and you want the 2.75" cold side inlet rather than the 4" to make it easier to mate with the Greddy piping.

Oh, and yes their server sucks.

Here is a comparison to the 5965B-B T3 flanged unit which is non wategated next to my old Greddy.






Oh, and red is definatly my color, I won't give it all away but here is a taste

dsddcd

I have a few questions about the swap still

(1) What drian line adapter did you use?

(2) Did you bead role your flanges after you cut them off?

(3) Will the Greddy DP fit this new unit or is the clocking off?

(4) That actuator on the new unit seems to stick out quite far, does if fit?

s2kadl

1. For the oil drain I used the oil drain from the Greddy turbo, had to enlargen the bolt holes a bit as the Garret takes bigger bolts, cant remember what size.

2. No havent bead rolled the flanges as yet, they havent popped off but I will be doing this soon.

3. My garrett turbo was clocked right and DP bolted straight on. The 5 bolt pattern on the greddy is identical to an SR20 nissan bolt pattern.

4. I reused the greddy actuator and had a bracket made to fit on the Garrett, sticks out a little further but fits fine.

chad86

Sorry about the stupid question, but I thought this turbo was water cooled???? Or can you basically pick if u want to cool it with coolant or oil... Feel kinda stupid asking but i am confused about this???

JoeyBalls

I plan on using an externally wastegated GT3076r with a PFAB manifold, in a few months Ill post results here

s2kadl

The Garrett turbo is water cooled as well, so you need to tap inlet and outlet water which was fairly simple. I just tapped from the stock oil cooler.

EngineerX

dsddcd yes, Greddy did a good job on the kit for what its purpose and goal were from the outset. And that Precision turbo looks pretty nice... gotta love the RED on that compressor side We'll looking forward to your results as well as Joeyballs' once he gets his new setup. I guess our trials will help others once we post results. Well, that's the beauty of these forums. It doesn't always have to be a "my turbo is bigger than yours" contest LOL. Cool Stuff !

This is the turbo info from Garrett
0.86 A/R GT3071R 700382-20

0.64 A/R GT3071R 700382-3

Dimensions can be found HERE - perfect fit for the Greddy kit

The externally gated GT3071R or GT3076R are of course, better turbos as they have larger 60mm turbine. The "76" means a 76mm compressor exducer blade diameter so it'll flow even more air. Just make sure that whoever sells you the header tells you exactly which one to get as clearances are different since they have different frames.

Well, these Greddy kits are getting Garrettsteined
My goal is to make more power than what the Greddy T518Z can achieve, but not enough to worry about having to change the headgasket. I bought a 2mm HG and ARP head studs, but I decided to keep the stock HG. I'll keep the boost under 14 psi and run the Aquamist HFS-5 meth injection system.

I'm going to try the Hydra EMS standalone instead of using the EMU. I like how the Hydra works, I've been using one on my Subaru STI since '04.
http://www.hydraems.com/nemesis/nemesis/ne...s_hardware.html


As far as the flanges, I'm just gonna buy aluminum pipes and replicate the Greddy pipes, that way if I ever decide to sell the kit with the T518Z the pipes will be as they originally came.

The compressor intake diameter is 3", so I'll just get some 3" Al pipe, silicone couplers and a new AEM or K&N filter. I like the larger diameter intake, less restriction, however the 2.75" intake may work just as well.

Regarding beadrolling the pipes, that would be the best thing to do, but if you don't have access to a beadroller.... on the intake it will not be an issue as long as you use good clamps (t-bolts are what I'm going to use). And on the pressure side I don't expect it to leak. I've been running 22psi thru a couple of pipes on my Subaru front mount intercooler and it doesn't leak at all. I did make sure to tighten the t-bolt clamps quite snuggly however.

Oh, I'll mention that this turbo does come with a WG actuator from ATP. It's listed for $1285 but I got a VERY sweet deal thru one of my buddies - I hate paying retail.

dsddcd

But, what if my turbo is bigger?I though it was the size not how you use it?

I agree the stock HG is a good choise however, you may want to check your valves most cars I have found so far have warped exhaust valves. You can get the HFS-6 for ths same price as the 5 now and have more capibilities.

Hydra seems to have a lock on the hard core Subie crowd. I personally prefere HP tuners but I think it will be a very longtime before they make anything that will work for most imports. Hopfully someone will make a nice and simple interface for my 08 STI.

That will be alot of work, if you can weld aluminum just cut them and then reweld if you have to.

I really like AEM's filters, I will not buy another oiled filter again.

Make your own bead roller or you can get one for around $100
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=278170

Theirs seems a bit steep