Tips/questions about later stages comptech Install
#1
Thread Starter
Tips/questions about later stages comptech Install
Hi Chaps,
I'm going to try and finish the SC (with aftercooler) install this weekend, providing i can get shelter.
So far here is whats been done so far:
* Aftercooler installed with return+feed pipes fitted (left loose in engine bay).
* Fuel pump done.
* Aftercooler pump fitted and wired - needs fitted to chocolate block to finish.
* Vtec mounting block and alternator extension.
* Comptech Crank pulley installed
** No need to fit an ESM i have a synapse missing link which will take 10mins to do.
http://www.jdmhub.com/index.php?rout...duct_id=323089
I apologise for the questions, i just want a trouble free if possible install biggrin.gif and occasionally have been known to #### things up hidebehindcomputer.gif smile.gif.
I'm trying to get my head around the install looking at the PDF's now, I have a few questions...
1) How much work have i got left in hours you think? - looks like FPR, missing link, pipes need routed, mounting bracket, blower and aftercooler need fitted etc.
2) Does the oil sump line just hook right up? - no 'ptfe' or anything?
3) SC belt slides right over one pulley on the SC and pulley attached to stock crank pulley?
4) Looks like there's emphasis on getting correct level on the blower?
5) Where is the best place to relocated the FPR?
Also any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I'll try and take pics too, havent taken any really so far.
Thanks
AJ
I'm going to try and finish the SC (with aftercooler) install this weekend, providing i can get shelter.
So far here is whats been done so far:
* Aftercooler installed with return+feed pipes fitted (left loose in engine bay).
* Fuel pump done.
* Aftercooler pump fitted and wired - needs fitted to chocolate block to finish.
* Vtec mounting block and alternator extension.
* Comptech Crank pulley installed
** No need to fit an ESM i have a synapse missing link which will take 10mins to do.
http://www.jdmhub.com/index.php?rout...duct_id=323089
I apologise for the questions, i just want a trouble free if possible install biggrin.gif and occasionally have been known to #### things up hidebehindcomputer.gif smile.gif.
I'm trying to get my head around the install looking at the PDF's now, I have a few questions...
1) How much work have i got left in hours you think? - looks like FPR, missing link, pipes need routed, mounting bracket, blower and aftercooler need fitted etc.
2) Does the oil sump line just hook right up? - no 'ptfe' or anything?
3) SC belt slides right over one pulley on the SC and pulley attached to stock crank pulley?
4) Looks like there's emphasis on getting correct level on the blower?
5) Where is the best place to relocated the FPR?
Also any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I'll try and take pics too, havent taken any really so far.
Thanks
AJ
#2
tip for one man install-
To remove the crank pulley, i had two breaker bar attach to 5 foot metal poles (returned afterwards) and put the car's oem jack in between the poles and started turning the jack until it broke lose.
To remove the crank pulley, i had two breaker bar attach to 5 foot metal poles (returned afterwards) and put the car's oem jack in between the poles and started turning the jack until it broke lose.
#4
first off if that missing link takes you more than 2 min to install...put the wrenches and tools down and get somebody else to finish the install...if you manage ok there, at your pace it seems another 2-3 hours (no offense), the oil line should have a fitting on the end of it and you should have gotten a fitting to replace the oil pan drain bolt to connect to the line...stock crank pulley???...no no no you should have gotten a modified crank pulley with your kit you bought it should look like 2 pulleys bolted together ( which it is ) one pulley is for the stock belt the other for the sc belt...if you have that you still NEED as in MUST HAVE the crank pulley tool to remove the stock crank pulley bolt, there is no other way but to have THAT tool...which is about $90 looks like a bar with a nut welded on the the end of it...I happen to have one if you need to borrow it ...the blower level will even out as long as you have the mounting bracket bolted correctly and all bolts are tighten to the correct ftlb's using a torque wrench or just do it the half ass way and tighten them a bunch ...in the instructions it shows your EXACTLY where the fpr goes as the confusing vacuum lines ( read those vacuum lines directions over and over and over...)
as for tips for you READ THE PDF INSTRUCTIONS carefully!...do you have a wideband hooked up to check your afr? if not turn the fuel pressure regulator bolt all the way into the fpr and then back it out 1 complete turn...if your on stock 5.5psi that should give you a "safe" rich ratio for now till you get a wideband...but best would be to HAVE one and shoot for 12-12.5 afr ...double check everything when you've installed it before you try and start the car make sure all lines are securely attached, bolts are all tight, belt it tightened, put an extra quart of oil in your car AFTER you top it off the sc will take up that much and then check it after you've had the car running to see if you need more
You can pm me personally for specific questions if you get stuck I'm always on trolling this forum
Have fun
as for tips for you READ THE PDF INSTRUCTIONS carefully!...do you have a wideband hooked up to check your afr? if not turn the fuel pressure regulator bolt all the way into the fpr and then back it out 1 complete turn...if your on stock 5.5psi that should give you a "safe" rich ratio for now till you get a wideband...but best would be to HAVE one and shoot for 12-12.5 afr ...double check everything when you've installed it before you try and start the car make sure all lines are securely attached, bolts are all tight, belt it tightened, put an extra quart of oil in your car AFTER you top it off the sc will take up that much and then check it after you've had the car running to see if you need more
You can pm me personally for specific questions if you get stuck I'm always on trolling this forum
Have fun
#5
Thread Starter
Hi.
Sorry, to confirm yes crank pulley has already been removed and replaced with the modified crank pulley (its been drilled and tapped ) - removed from another guys who had the SC previosuly.
Yep have a installed AEM wideband and vafc2 to begin with - I'm sitting what the car is like with an AP2 pulley to begin with .
Thanks, good tip about the oil.
Thanks
Sorry, to confirm yes crank pulley has already been removed and replaced with the modified crank pulley (its been drilled and tapped ) - removed from another guys who had the SC previosuly.
Yep have a installed AEM wideband and vafc2 to begin with - I'm sitting what the car is like with an AP2 pulley to begin with .
Thanks, good tip about the oil.
Thanks
#7
Thread Starter
Hopefully, cheers mate.
Sometimes i think i lack self confidence just dont want to blow the car up
I have some bolt on so i reckon I'll need to turn the Fpr almost all the way to make it rich, then tune when i get to a dyno.
Sometimes i think i lack self confidence just dont want to blow the car up
I have some bolt on so i reckon I'll need to turn the Fpr almost all the way to make it rich, then tune when i get to a dyno.
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#8
If you have a wideband you don't need to take your car to a tuner, unless of course you want to see what she makes and maybe are lacking some "confidence" on reading the wideband you invested in
When you get everything hooked up and are ready to tune your car, give me a shout, I'll help you with some set up and tips with the fuel pressure regulator and vafc. Bluemetals knows the ropes well also so I'm sure he will be helpful for you.
When you get everything hooked up and are ready to tune your car, give me a shout, I'll help you with some set up and tips with the fuel pressure regulator and vafc. Bluemetals knows the ropes well also so I'm sure he will be helpful for you.
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