ti retainers and valve spring question
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ti retainers and valve spring question
I had posted this in another thread but i figured i would get a better response if i made a new thread with this as a topic.
ok so Have been doing some research on a valvetrain upgrade. I am going to stay mainly witth oem parts. The only thing I have a Question on is springs and retainers. I hear lot of talk about the use of ti but my tuner and installer are dead set against it. Is the only advantage of ti its weight and because of this we can rev higher once paired with a set of better springs? Or is it actually a stronger piece compared to its oem counterpart. If so why do Ti retainers need more maintance than oem meaning they need to be replaced more often. Im not really interested in raising my redline because my turbo a 3076r is going to run out of breathing room as i reach redline anyway. What i want to do is strenghten the retainers and springs. Is there a better material than ti or oem for my goals. Im still learning here so please bare with me if this question seems somewhat elementry. Just trying to understand the dynamics of how everything fits together.
ok so Have been doing some research on a valvetrain upgrade. I am going to stay mainly witth oem parts. The only thing I have a Question on is springs and retainers. I hear lot of talk about the use of ti but my tuner and installer are dead set against it. Is the only advantage of ti its weight and because of this we can rev higher once paired with a set of better springs? Or is it actually a stronger piece compared to its oem counterpart. If so why do Ti retainers need more maintance than oem meaning they need to be replaced more often. Im not really interested in raising my redline because my turbo a 3076r is going to run out of breathing room as i reach redline anyway. What i want to do is strenghten the retainers and springs. Is there a better material than ti or oem for my goals. Im still learning here so please bare with me if this question seems somewhat elementry. Just trying to understand the dynamics of how everything fits together.
#2
It's my understanding that it's not really safe to be reving that much higher than stock with just upgrading the head. You would want to go with better rods and such on the bottom end to support the higher RPM's. In this light it would be cheaper and simpler to just go with OEM. No point in going with ti for you I would think.
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hey dereck, Idk whats in your budget or what you want for the long road. But if I was in your situation, thinking down the road I will have a built motor/head ported and polished...you can get a head ported and polished,all parts included for 1650 from laskeyracing.com...check them out if you would be into that if you are not planning on going that road,probably just do oem parts.
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these were thing i was thinking about doing down the road. For now i just want to get the car up and running in reliable form. The bottom end was/is giong to be built but i fugured i would see what i could get out of stock internals with just the 3mm HG, meth, and a "safe" tune. If the head and valves are now no good because of the damage I will probably be talking to laskey. Im hoping that I just need to replace the retainers and maybe the springs. This is why my question was geared around the vavle springs and retainers.
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yah, I know what your saying...it just might be something to think about that if eventually going to spend the 1600 for the head it might be more worth it to spend it now instead of spending the 200 or whatever it may cost for the springs/retainers...just might be something to consider lol. I know I cant afford it but I would love to go with a built motor/head now. But id rather make money than spend it ha.
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I like to maximize my dollar spent, but i am by no means cheap. I always felt like the last thing i would ever do is a port and polish because our head flows so well. But at the same time if you are already into a part of the car, might as well do everything you can do to maximise its performance at that time. Why go back and do something twice. Just leads to wasted dollars. Im not really sure the bang for your buck is best spent with a port and polish on a s2000 head. I would rather put that money twoards a bottom end build. Boy this car thing is a ton of fun!
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yah, ha I am cheap lol...well im not cheap but I am trying to save my money right nwo instead of put it all into my car. I understand what you mean about it not being a necesity with a turbo s2000, just the way I look at it is if your going to put 200 into the springs/retainers and later on end up diong the head...might as well do it now. I made that mistake alot on my last car(integra) and since I have had my S I have only done it once, I bought lowering springs just to turn around and sell them 6 months later when I got coilovers. But it will be nice to do the head,once you have the built motor you probably will see a 10% increase in power is certain parts of the rpm range. And when you do the built block you will be able to rev it to 10k!