JoeyBalls

^ Not as strong and still uses OEM Axles which are not built to handle launching

CD7SirAccord

I believe Driveshaft Shop has some 2.9 axles that are direct bolt in. The 5.9's require you to replace the hubs.

I'm not sure what Ben charges to do a stage 3 or 4 built diff, but the axles are $1000, so you're probably into the rear end by at least $3000 i'd imagine. Then you wouldn't have the availability of rear end gears like the ford 8.8. The ford 8.8 is by far the best choice for the rear end.

hatchbone

I got the trans for under 3g that helped alot,I also have the rear and like you said if you plan on things not breaking do them both is the best bet,it is about the closest thing to "bullet proof " as you can get for our cars,never would I want to run a dog box on the street when I have this option

BrockB

you know what I have yet to see?

a video of somebody running their s2k with a v160
and the speedometer actually working.

whos got it?

hatchbone

I run a haltec so mine works spot on displayed on the race pack

sata3000

vids or ban

hatchbone

Im picking up the car sat getting the cage welded in,I will take a vid then

sata3000

Thank you sir!

Sent from my Galaxy S II using Tapatalk

timg

It's too bad this kit doesn't allow you to run a standard Supra clutch. Their RPS Carbon/Carbon clutch is supposed to hold crazy power and be super easy to drive/slip.

Tim

99SH

2 questions for you guys.

1. Seems like the Toyota VSS runs off 12V, while the S2k is 5V. Are we feeding a 12V input to our ECU/cluster using the speedohealer?
2. Using the V160 + stock diff, what is the difference driveshaft length?