Standing Room Only

4000 miles after adding my Comptech SC with AC, decided to be safe and get a Dyno run to make sure I wasn't running too lean. Dyno run came out just fine with 281 HP at @5 PSI boost (stock pulley). I was disappointed to find out my Comptech water pump wasn't working for the AC, so the air charge was hotter than it probably should have been.

Interesting point though - we put a bag of ice on the AC, waited 10 minutes and we were able to pull 301 HP. One heck of a difference and a good advertisement for making sure the AC is working correctly. Now I have to dig in and get a new pump assuming the wiring is OK - the AC pump was working last I checked about 2K miles ago....

Want to thank Richie and Andres at RAW Racing in Davie. They had a problem last minute with the dyno we were going to use and found another dyno to run this on. This was EOD but Andres took the time to make sure I got a good pull and even went out after the bag of ice after finding out my AC was kaput. Nice guys who seem to know their stuff - pretty rare in SoFla.

Now...I need an exhaust, gauges and smaller pulley. Damn FI - you can always do more to get more

ATOice

Nice numbers for stock boost!!

ChefJ

Yea not bad for stock boost. Very reliable and much quicker.

Asura

Check the white wire that goes from the pump to a 12V ignition switched source. If that wire is loose or disconnected the pump won't turn on...

S20004ME_PDX

Is there an easy way to tell visual/audio that the AC is working or not besides putting it on a dyno?

I don' t think the wire is loose, but while the car is on, its hard to tell if its working or not.

Asura

When you turn the ignition key with out starting the car, the pump should whine in the bumper area where it is located.

You can also open the aftercooler plug and check to see if the water is moving.

Standing Room Only

Asura, right on the money. I have a Valentine I hardwired and took the "easy" route when wiring the pump - put in a T-Tap to the same wire. Jiggle the T-Tap and on comes the AC pump. I knew better than to use a T-Tap

After fighting witht he damn kick panel (spent more time on that damned thing than wiring this) pulled out my boat electrical box and used high quality ancor 3-way splice to an ancor spade. Problem solved, AC pump running like a champ - now. Thanks again!

Asura

mikey k

4k miles after

I've just finished my stock CTSC and AC install and will be dynoing it Friday hopefully.

I also hope I get figures like yours

Standing Room Only

Nah - AC was running up to 7500 miles, I checked water level, running, etc. Problem was after 2500 miles "assumed" all was good. Only real problem when AC pump not working is power loss due to hotter air charge (at this low PSI level). I do think though that the AC pump was probably intermittent - would come on/off. As I said - my stupid decision to use the T-Tap rather than take the 5 minutes to track down my "good" electrical connectors and make a solid 3 way splice.

BTW - that 301 hp came with an ice bag on the AC for 10 minutes. No way I'm seeing that "real world" unless the air temp outside is <50F and I'm moving a lot of air over the AC radiator. I'm happy - the Competch dyno called for 279 on a dynojet with this, so at 88F and 281hp with a busted AC, not too shabby.

Now to show self-restraint and keep myself from adding more to get more power