Starting issues
#21
Possibly. I don't alarm the car when it's in the my garage so I can't see that really drawing any power, but I'm going to do a little testing over the next day or two.
Also after reading through this thread: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/883...efiningtuning/
I talked to my tuner and setup a date for him to check out the tune and the cold start parameters. Maybe some adjusting needs to be done to help the car start better. That's not until the 23rd though since he's away.
I also purchased a better battery tender to hopefully keep the battery charged to full capacity. I feel like the one I was using only brought it to maybe 90% and is then cutting off. Then it lets voltage drop too far before charging it again. So the constant drain and charge is probably not any good for the life of the battery.
Also after reading through this thread: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/883...efiningtuning/
I talked to my tuner and setup a date for him to check out the tune and the cold start parameters. Maybe some adjusting needs to be done to help the car start better. That's not until the 23rd though since he's away.
I also purchased a better battery tender to hopefully keep the battery charged to full capacity. I feel like the one I was using only brought it to maybe 90% and is then cutting off. Then it lets voltage drop too far before charging it again. So the constant drain and charge is probably not any good for the life of the battery.
#22
Liquid, do you have a supercharger?
This is interesting because for me, it almost always takes 3-5 seconds for the engine to turn over and start. It was worse when trying to immediately restart hot after a long drive.
After my SC seized and I cut off the SC belt, it starts waaaay easier now. It cranks over and starts in 1-2 seconds. I dont know if that's related or not, but maybe it's worth a try to take off the belt and see if it starts easier. I'm starting to think that the hard start was sign that the SC was on it's way out for a needed rebuild...
This is interesting because for me, it almost always takes 3-5 seconds for the engine to turn over and start. It was worse when trying to immediately restart hot after a long drive.
After my SC seized and I cut off the SC belt, it starts waaaay easier now. It cranks over and starts in 1-2 seconds. I dont know if that's related or not, but maybe it's worth a try to take off the belt and see if it starts easier. I'm starting to think that the hard start was sign that the SC was on it's way out for a needed rebuild...
#23
Liquid, do you have a supercharger?
This is interesting because for me, it almost always takes 3-5 seconds for the engine to turn over and start. It was worse when trying to immediately restart hot after a long drive.
After my SC seized and I cut off the SC belt, it starts waaaay easier now. It cranks over and starts in 1-2 seconds. I dont know if that's related or not, but maybe it's worth a try to take off the belt and see if it starts easier. I'm starting to think that the hard start was sign that the SC was on it's way out for a needed rebuild...
This is interesting because for me, it almost always takes 3-5 seconds for the engine to turn over and start. It was worse when trying to immediately restart hot after a long drive.
After my SC seized and I cut off the SC belt, it starts waaaay easier now. It cranks over and starts in 1-2 seconds. I dont know if that's related or not, but maybe it's worth a try to take off the belt and see if it starts easier. I'm starting to think that the hard start was sign that the SC was on it's way out for a needed rebuild...
#25
Ok so I picked up my battery from Advanced Auto tonight. Of course they said the battery was good. Anyway I get home and put it on my volt meter before installing it on the car and it reads 12.3v
I then installed it on the car with the digital readout and it reads 12.6v
And here is a video of me trying to start the car and what the voltage drops to. I texted with the tuner afterwards and he said that the AEM is not syncing because the voltage is dropping too low. Well how did this now happen all of a sudden? The car has started fine before, but now voltage is dropping too low for the AEM to sync and the battery tests just fine? The only way I can get the car started is to jump it with another vehicle. I just don't get it. Would added a battery with more CCA help? Or possibly adding some sort of capacitor inline with the ECU to avoid the voltage drop?
You have to click on the little picture below to open the video.
I then installed it on the car with the digital readout and it reads 12.6v
And here is a video of me trying to start the car and what the voltage drops to. I texted with the tuner afterwards and he said that the AEM is not syncing because the voltage is dropping too low. Well how did this now happen all of a sudden? The car has started fine before, but now voltage is dropping too low for the AEM to sync and the battery tests just fine? The only way I can get the car started is to jump it with another vehicle. I just don't get it. Would added a battery with more CCA help? Or possibly adding some sort of capacitor inline with the ECU to avoid the voltage drop?
You have to click on the little picture below to open the video.
#27
Yes, voltage readout is always on, it's not a power draw though. It's just the digital part connected to the positive terminal and it has a small black wire that comes off it that connects to the negative side. Nothing else is on when I try and start the car. No lights, no heat, no a/c, no thing.
You have a capacitor that you use to help with starting?
I'm going to bite the bullet and just buy a new battery. I need to know that it's not a battery issue. Plus there was one time before I put the car away for the winter that I forgot to put the plastic cap back on that digital readout on the positive terminal and it was making contact with the hood. It caused the car to ground out and it shut off while I was driving. I got out to check what happened and the battery was scalding hot. So maybe cells were damaged inside that Advanced isn't seeing on the battery tests they are running. So for peace of mind I'm just going to replace the damn thing and be sure.
You have a capacitor that you use to help with starting?
I'm going to bite the bullet and just buy a new battery. I need to know that it's not a battery issue. Plus there was one time before I put the car away for the winter that I forgot to put the plastic cap back on that digital readout on the positive terminal and it was making contact with the hood. It caused the car to ground out and it shut off while I was driving. I got out to check what happened and the battery was scalding hot. So maybe cells were damaged inside that Advanced isn't seeing on the battery tests they are running. So for peace of mind I'm just going to replace the damn thing and be sure.
#28
Yeah the cap may or may not help me, but I unplugged my digital bolt read out on my terminal (stopped connecting the negative side) so it would not grain some of the voltage. It would drain a very small amount. I only attach it when I need to see the voltage.
#29
I think with this battery my course of action is going to be to disconnect it when not in use and bring it in the house over the winter. Or at least disconnect it from the car and attach it to the new battery tender I bought because it's supposed to keep the battery 100% charged and not let it drop.
#30
I use a breaker switch that is on the positive side of the battery. If it is turned off it disconnects all battery power to the car. Haven't had any issues since I started doing that. I just can't save any radio stations or settings on my stereos eq or anything else.