cheddaboy

Whats up so I've done a bit of reading and talked to a couple people about this and cannot make up my mind. I am not convinced to go with either or other than price. So the question is, wet sleeves or dry sleeves? Generic iron sleeves or higher end Darton or Golden Eagle sleeves? For my power goals my engine builder is saying I shouldn't NEED anything other than the generic sleeves and says he has done about a dozen F-series motors and only had an issue with one that was burning oil(don't think that could be sleeve related..). He's built hundreds of B and D series motors as well(honda guy). He told me that if I wanted, I can go ahead and spend the extra to get some Darton sleeves if I had future plans to up the boost. His reason for his recommendation is that he knows the stock motor/cylinders are capable of some crazy power.

Just so we're on the same page..

F20C stroking to F24
CTSC rebuilt w/upgraded 928 motorsports impeller + high speed bearings
11-15psi(no plans for more than 450whp)
Tuned on 91/94 octane - redline @8500 rpms

2 track days a year
5-10 Auto X events a year
Roughly 15-25,000 kilometers a year (daily driving)

ALSO IF ANYONE IN HERE HAS SOME EXPERIENCE WITH THEYRE OWN MOTORS, CHIME IN!

THX!

staylor725

I'm in the same boat as you I made a post asking about dry vs wet sleeves https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/110...vs-dry-sleeve/ sounds like a lot of guys are using the darton dry sleeve with no problems with more power than 450. I'm going to try them with my spare I'm building because its less than half the price of wet sleeves and I trust darton more than a generic sleeve.

Sideways

Hands down, Benson does the best sleeves and they are custom Darton sleeves that only Benson uses. They are wet.

boostedf22c

That could definitely be debated.

Funtimefrankie

I have been running Darton dry sleeves with CP Pistons for around 7,000 miles. Zero issues so far and am making 540whp measured in a hub Dyno in the uk so very accurate.

cheddaboy

Yeah found your thread in the search. I would love to say the same thing but it seems that the only difference is the flange to prevent the sleeve from dropping(never heard of anyone having this issue..@least not with an F20/22). Other than that, I believe they are both iron sleeves(Dont quote me on this). Definately not trying to cheap out, just trying not to spend money if I dont HAVE to. Full sleeve+machining and assembly would cost me about $1000 and Darton flanged sleeves would run me about $500-600 more.

camuman

I'd ask this guy what he runs. I'd bet it's Purdy good.

liquidgsr

I believe Carey runs AEBS sleeves since his motors are built by Inline Pro.

wadzii

We use darton dry sleeves for most builds. We have been doing a package deal, send us your block, we'll get the block sleeved and include Wiseco pistons for $1599+shipping

If you want more than that there always the full wet closed deck option, we've used Inline pro, victory machine and a few others all with good results. it usually comes down to turn around for us on those jobs. We get the dry sleeves done in less than 2 weeks typically.

Prokaw875

OP I agree with Wadzii. For your 2.4 build the best bang for your buck you can do is just get a dry darton flanged slip sleeve installed. Then just run a traditional weisco/cp piston, F24 rod, and K24 crank. Pretty much you have 3 options for sleeves while we are on the topic.

Slip Sleeve- this is just like it sounds. the block is left a oped deck style but the frm bore is machined out and a slip sleeve is press fit in. Most of the time your machine shop will have a cheap china iron sleeve they use, and they work great. Also please note that darton DOES NOT offer a slip sleeve. This is a great option for a budget conscious build for someone that is going to be in the 500-600hp range.

Flanged Slip Sleeve- This is the "Dry" sleeve that darton offers for the S2000. Again the block is left in the open deck OE style and the FRM wall is replaced with a Iron sleeve. Only differance is at the top of the deck an additional step is machined in to prevent the sleeve from ever dropping. Again this is an affordable option but will cost a little more that the standard china brand slip due to buying the name brand upcharge of darton and the additional machining. This is your proven 700-800hp solution ALOT of people run.

Full Replacement Sleeve - These are the top dogs of the sleeve world. The entire open deck construction sleeve is machined out and replaced with a full iron construction sleeve. There are 2 style of this class... WET Open Deck and WET Closed Deck. Your wet open decks are like the benson block that is a full iron lined sleeve but at no point does the sleeve make contact with the deck around the firing ring so it looks just like stock but is iron contruction. Perk to this style is the OE like cooling capabilities with added power potential. The other style is a WET Closed deck. These are your Darton MID WET, AEBS, and Golden Eagle sleeves. The full iron sleeve fills the stock open deck area and makes contact with the outer wall of the block. Coolant is transfered throught the head through drilled or milled hole around the cylinders... not a fully open area like the open deck style. Good thing about these blocks are they are BOMB PROOF... 50-60psi... 1200++ HP is not an issue with them. BUT machining costs are much higher than the other styles and the material itself is more. Easily this is twice as costly over your normal flanged slip sleeve.