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ScienceofSpeed Introduces Billet Twin Carbon Clutch & Flywheel Version 2

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Old 09-03-2011, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by drzchulo147
What's physically different between v1 and v2?
This pic is the main difference. The v1 flywheel is just a regular everyday all metal flywheel while v2 is lined in carbon. Plus that first disk is now all carbon while the v1 has organic friction material on the flywheel side.

When my v1 dies i'll be should to rebuild it with v2

Old 09-04-2011, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Topillogic
Originally Posted by Chris@SoS' timestamp='1315022292' post='20940321
Topillogic - thank you. If possible, try to get a drive in another "high power" clutch from Exedy, Carbonetics, Clutchmasters, Competition Clutch, etc. You'll find the difference is night and day.
Well, I probably won't get the chance to test another but I'm realistic about the compromises involved with a setup like this. I can provide an assessment on how it relates to the ACT HD for those making the jump like myself. Promise I won't be scathing if it doesn't ride like a limo.
You can drive mine if I can get a ride in yours.

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Old 09-04-2011, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris@SoS
B5254T4 - yes, we can rebuild the clutch to the new design if you'd like. We would replace friction liners, disc hubs, and flywheel. I don't have an exact price, so please e-mail us your information to info@ScienceofSpeed.com and including your sales order number. The difference between the old and new design is about 10% - it's noticeable, but not earth shattering - so, if you say that the daily drivability is "nasty" I wonder if something else is going on. Since this clutch is a strapless design with out sprung hubs or marcel spring steel discs (all due to the high strength design required for it's torque capacity) this clutch will always have some shudder, noticeable in first and reverse only, and some noise when the pedal is depressed all the way, in comparison to a stock clutch.

It is not as smooth as a factory clutch purely based on it's rugged design - it is however considerably smoother than any aftermarket clutch that can hold even 1/2 the torque it is rated for (and I have driven most of them), and has a pedal pressure that is just like a factory clutch. With out the sprung centers, straps, and marcel discs, the clutch will amplify issues such as grease splatter on to the friction liners, worn input shaft bearing, and flywheel or pressure plate not bolted on true. So, after this description, if you feel it is worth investigating, please let us know.

-- Chris
Chris, I think I´ll keep it as a v1 but will decide this winter when I build the new engine. Nasty is a strong word but it´s pretty hard to drive in traffic after it´s heated up, don´t know but think that carbon expands with heat.
Love it when it´s cold, easy to slip and no need for high revs to get the car rolling, when it´s hot it´s like driving a 4-puck, engine dies, wheel spin or high revs and slip to get a nice start.

Over all it´s still a great clutch that will handle the power I throw at it and probably the easiest to drive when it comes to high hp clutches.
Old 09-07-2011, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by B5254T4
Chris, I think I´ll keep it as a v1 but will decide this winter when I build the new engine. Nasty is a strong word but it´s pretty hard to drive in traffic after it´s heated up, don´t know but think that carbon expands with heat.
Love it when it´s cold, easy to slip and no need for high revs to get the car rolling, when it´s hot it´s like driving a 4-puck, engine dies, wheel spin or high revs and slip to get a nice start.

Over all it´s still a great clutch that will handle the power I throw at it and probably the easiest to drive when it comes to high hp clutches.
What you're describing (about it being like a 4 puck when hot) does not sound typical. In my experience, the clutch is very consistent from cold to operating temperature. What you're describing sounds like it is being overheated. Did you adjust the master cylinder when it was installed to verify that pedal free play is set to factory spec? If not, this could be a cause - not allowing the clutch to fully engage or disengage causing slipping and overheating. If you verify this and all seems well, send it to us for inspection (call us before sending it in with information including your sales order number so that we can set up an inspection).

cheers,
-- Chris
Old 09-07-2011, 12:34 PM
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Yeah, adjusted. Will contact you this winter if I decide to send it away, thanks for helping!
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