For SC 400-450 whp S is it best to rebuild engine or buy used F22?
#41
I like the idea. Then your almost still in the ballpark of what a used 2.2L longblock cost.
Im not sure the components, but i know the guides have to be done. Call King Motorsports and ask for big Mike. He can give you a run down on wat you might want to do.
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
Im not sure the components, but i know the guides have to be done. Call King Motorsports and ask for big Mike. He can give you a run down on wat you might want to do.
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
#42
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Ok cool. I'll look into that. I see Evans tuning also offers head rebuilds so I'll speak with him as that is where I get tuned and will have my new engine installed by another Jeff that works with him and only works on S2000's.
Would save me on shipping costs etc.
Would save me on shipping costs etc.
#43
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Originally Posted by s2000vtecvtec' timestamp='1341866595' post='21845801
[quote name='Moddiction' timestamp='1341842302' post='21844575']
Oh nice. Didn't know that was included.
I would still think the oem engine would last longer than any built engine for a 450whp sc setup in this car. Hell I'm almost at 170k miles on my stock f20 now. I added boost at around 120k miles. Currently at 406whp so these oem engines are definitely made to last!
I average over 20k miles a year on my S2000 so far.
Oh nice. Didn't know that was included.
I would still think the oem engine would last longer than any built engine for a 450whp sc setup in this car. Hell I'm almost at 170k miles on my stock f20 now. I added boost at around 120k miles. Currently at 406whp so these oem engines are definitely made to last!
I average over 20k miles a year on my S2000 so far.
[/quote]
man, you make me want to boost my car now. i only drive 2000 miles per year if i keep my current job. it's only 6 miles from home to office and go back.
#44
Id have the head refreshed by a machine shop with bronze valve guides and I am personally going with BC Dual springs and steel retainers. After countless hours of research and speaking to many, many reputale builders and tuners I feel that the BC combo is perfect for my setup.
Had a friend measure the OEM spring seat pressure and they found it ot be 65psi and BC duals are 84 psi, which is less aggressive from the Supertech which weight in at 94-100 seat. Opinions of Titanium have weighed in countless perspectives but steel has virtually never been prone to wear like Ti. My personal goal was to maintain OEM longevity and dependability with alittle extra insurance against valve float and a potential mis shift.
I have asked about the CR block, and yes it seems the only difference is the sensors, which can easily be switched out when swapping a motor. So given that price for a NEW OEM block, you simply can not beat that price and peace of mind. Hell, when my motor needs to be replaced ill also go with an 09 shortblock.
As for the redline, seems 8400 was the best point for a good lifespan... I remember reading one members UOA results using a redline above 8400 and at 8500+ the wear numbers were significantly higher, so he put it back ot 8400 and those numbers returned to normal.
The next thing I want to research are the Ceramic hybrid bearings for the Novi 1200, which offer better heat resistance and better stability when spinning the blower higher than paxtons recommendations.
Had a friend measure the OEM spring seat pressure and they found it ot be 65psi and BC duals are 84 psi, which is less aggressive from the Supertech which weight in at 94-100 seat. Opinions of Titanium have weighed in countless perspectives but steel has virtually never been prone to wear like Ti. My personal goal was to maintain OEM longevity and dependability with alittle extra insurance against valve float and a potential mis shift.
I have asked about the CR block, and yes it seems the only difference is the sensors, which can easily be switched out when swapping a motor. So given that price for a NEW OEM block, you simply can not beat that price and peace of mind. Hell, when my motor needs to be replaced ill also go with an 09 shortblock.
As for the redline, seems 8400 was the best point for a good lifespan... I remember reading one members UOA results using a redline above 8400 and at 8500+ the wear numbers were significantly higher, so he put it back ot 8400 and those numbers returned to normal.
The next thing I want to research are the Ceramic hybrid bearings for the Novi 1200, which offer better heat resistance and better stability when spinning the blower higher than paxtons recommendations.
#45
The price Majestic gives for their block on the website is different than what they'll quote you over the phone. I went through this whole thing a couple years ago, so make sure you get an actual person on the line. Also, they won't ship, and you'll have to pick it up from RI, which i'm guessing for you Ryan isn't that big of a deal.
I also would go for an OEM block. All the horror stories I've heard from "built" blocks would keep me away, especially at the HP level you're looking for.
I also would go for an OEM block. All the horror stories I've heard from "built" blocks would keep me away, especially at the HP level you're looking for.
#46
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Yeah forgot about Majestic not shipping. That could be a pain since I would be having the engine shipped down to Evans Tuning or I would have to borrow a truck to bring that down and my car or something.
Still going back and forth between a used F22 long block or this and a head rebuild. Used longblock would save me probably $1000 or more over all since I could sell off my entire engine and wouldn't have to pay $1000 or so for the head to be rebuilt.
Still going back and forth between a used F22 long block or this and a head rebuild. Used longblock would save me probably $1000 or more over all since I could sell off my entire engine and wouldn't have to pay $1000 or so for the head to be rebuilt.
#47
interesting, i'm looking for a shortblock as well and Majestic's price is really good.
I'd also be going through Jeff D for the install, keep us posted. I'd also have to pick up the shortblock so I might be able to get yours too.
I'd also be going through Jeff D for the install, keep us posted. I'd also have to pick up the shortblock so I might be able to get yours too.
#48
Wow this is interesting. Given the $$ required for both engine + trans, have you considered selling your car, buying an AP2, and moving your FI setup to the newer car? I always wind up there when I do the math, but the labor investment keeps me stuck with my AP1. (Fuel pump, wire tuck, battery relo, suspension mods, fender rolling...)
#49
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Yeah I have considered that especially since I have been wanting a paint job as well.
However I have had this car for 5 years now and know all about it. It has been extremely reliable and I know whats been done, replaced etc that I would be nervous switching cars.
Also re installing all the parts would be a pain and then buying all oem parts to put on my car etc. My car has a ton of miles and needs and engine so I wouldn't be able to get too much for it.
However I have had this car for 5 years now and know all about it. It has been extremely reliable and I know whats been done, replaced etc that I would be nervous switching cars.
Also re installing all the parts would be a pain and then buying all oem parts to put on my car etc. My car has a ton of miles and needs and engine so I wouldn't be able to get too much for it.
#50
Im in the same boat as moddiction. I thought of that as well. It was a good plan, then my mother side swiped my car in her driveway, now my car is worth nothing in my eyes.