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Joey, your HG is gone. I had the EXACT same symptoms on my laskey motor when it's HG let go.
I would monitor your oil CLOSELY (like a few times a day) to see if there is ANY milky residue (after you have overheating issues, pull over and remove the oil cap... is there steam coming out? If so, same as my car. coolant/water mix was flashing in the cylinders, vaporizing water and coolant (not enough to see in the exhaust at idle, though)). You do not want to spin your bearings... Then things get ridiculously expensive REAL quick.
Did you run coolant pressure test on a cold motor or a warm motor the first time?
My experience and Venomous S's sound eerily similar. I fixed/tested everything (thermostat included) before the HG... because everything else was just as viable and cheaper to test / replace .
Originally Posted by teamvalorracing,Aug 2 2010, 09:46 AM
this is a little off topic, but i am going to call ARP directly and get the exact torque specs for the head studs. there was a thread where the little paper in the box has listed as low as 83ftlbs and some that have shown as high as 95(confirmed by user photos of said paper). thats a big difference. that also could have something to do with this madness.
Before I installed my 3mm I made a few phone calls to eliminate any hearsay.
ARP had me measure the threads on the studs and after confirming they are 12mm wide they stated they should be torqued to 90ft/lbs with their moly lube.
I then called IP, they said dont use any copper spray, put RTV/hondabond only around timing chain cover on both sides of the gasket, and torque ARP studs in two stages, first to 60ftlbs and then to 90ft/lbs.
Originally Posted by o'malley_808,Aug 2 2010, 11:52 PM
Before I installed my 3mm I made a few phone calls to eliminate any hearsay.
ARP had me measure the threads on the studs and after confirming they are 12mm wide they stated they should be torqued to 90ft/lbs with their moly lube.
I then called IP, they said dont use any copper spray, put RTV/hondabond only around timing chain cover on both sides of the gasket, and torque ARP studs in two stages, first to 60ftlbs and then to 90ft/lbs.
So far so good....
I torque my ARP's in 3 steps with moly lube on the washer faces and nut face; 30, 60 and 80 and let it set over night and then hit it again at 80. 90 ft lbs seems too high and may distort or warp some things going that high.
The final torque of 80 ft lbs is per the ARP instructions sheet for the S2000 headstuds that came with mine and I have never had a problem. I also dont retorque them after a heat cycle nor use any copper spray; only Permatex grey RTV around the timing chain cover area.
Joey, your HG is gone. I had the EXACT same symptoms on my laskey motor when it's HG let go.
I would monitor your oil CLOSELY (like a few times a day) to see if there is ANY milky residue (after you have overheating issues, pull over and remove the oil cap... is there steam coming out? If so, same as my car. coolant/water mix was flashing in the cylinders, vaporizing water and coolant (not enough to see in the exhaust at idle, though)). You do not want to spin your bearings... Then things get ridiculously expensive REAL quick.
Did you run coolant pressure test on a cold motor or a warm motor the first time?
My experience and Venomous S's sound eerily similar. I fixed/tested everything (thermostat included) before the HG... because everything else was just as viable and cheaper to test / replace .
John
Yea, the oil only has 1,000 miles on it, its still gold with no signs of Coolant, and no oil in the coolant either. Car does occasionally smell like anti-freeze though, but I attribute that to having anitifreeze all over the bottom of the engine bay from multiple bleeds.
I have accepted the fact the my Headgasket is gone, I would like to drive the car for another 150 cumulative miles, basically this weekend. I just know I am playing with fire, as right now the gasket is blown but doesnt seem to be burning coolant, now if I keep pushing it, that may change
Either way come Monday my car is going to Minitoyots to get leakdown/Headgasket replacement, however this weekend would be the last I could drive the S anyway so I would like too. Also seems like this is exactly what happened last time, and it took about 1,000 miles for the air pocket to become large enough to cause I problem, I just want another 150 miles from it
I torque my ARP's in 3 steps with moly lube on the washer faces and nut face; 30, 60 and 80 and let it set over night and then hit it again at 80. 90 ft lbs seems too high and may distort or warp some things going that high.
The final torque of 80 ft lbs is per the ARP instructions sheet for the S2000 headstuds that came with mine and I have never had a problem. I also dont retorque them after a heat cycle nor use any copper spray; only Permatex grey RTV around the timing chain cover area.
Well I called ARP directly as well as Inline pro and they both said to final torque to 90ft/lbs with ARP and moly lube and they havn't had any problems? Oh well time will tell...I also didnt do any of that copper spray, just seems too hard to be able to get a uniform coating on the HG and would probably cause more problems than anything leaving thicker film in some area than others...
just get the copper spray and call it a day joey...
i called arp today, gave them the part number listed, they put me on hold.
came back and said "our spec book has them listed as 80ft lbs with our supplied moly-lube."
so i asked about what spoolin said with the 90ftlb incident....
they put me on hold.
came back and said to torque them to 75% of the studs tensile strength( being that they are rated in psi, it is a bit of a challenge to convert).
being that they are rated at 200,000psi, and they are 7/16". the F-series headstuds are supposed to be torqued to 80ftlbs with their lube. if you bought the 220,000 psi ones(which i havent seen listed for an s2000) then its 90 with the moly lube.
08-02-2010, 06:09 PM
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