Round 2, car overheated agian after
08-01-2010, 09:43 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by JoeyBalls,Aug 1 2010, 08:12 AM
^
I do run METH and I think less timing would help with detonation, however the car doesnt see any detonation, just long highway pulls at 21lbs of boost
Oil has no coolant in it and vice versa, no smoke, no burning/losing collant, it's strange but the only way I could have this much air in the system has to be blown HG
I think I would still rather have the Turbo S then a "reliable" blown Vette, maybe a Z06, but only domestic I would trade the S for would be a Viper, but I plan adding to the S, never want to "replace" it
I do run METH and I think less timing would help with detonation, however the car doesnt see any detonation, just long highway pulls at 21lbs of boost
Oil has no coolant in it and vice versa, no smoke, no burning/losing collant, it's strange but the only way I could have this much air in the system has to be blown HG
I think I would still rather have the Turbo S then a "reliable" blown Vette, maybe a Z06, but only domestic I would trade the S for would be a Viper
, but I plan adding to the S, never want to "replace" itA lifted head is usually caused by detonation.. No coolant in the oil means you're in the clear but it sounds like the system wasnt ran and topped off a few times before moving on..
With all the money invested I'd have the car inspected by another mechanic to make sure everything is up to par.. A simple mistake like what happened would have resulted with a blown motor in the hands of someone much less experienced than yourself.
On that note! 3 Months away from my own twin scroll setup! Thanks for all the posts and details youve been sharing.. Hasn't helped me a ton with planning!
Cheers!
08-01-2010, 09:45 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by D1sclaimer,Aug 1 2010, 08:30 AM
E85 is awesome, but IT is not C16.
Thats a better way of typing what I meant. C16>E85
Thats a better way of typing what I meant. C16>E85
Per gallon =-)
$2 < $12
E85 provides cooling properties which most would agree with as being much better for street car and from my experience makes the same power as c16 in most cases.
Cheers!
08-01-2010, 09:47 AM
#33
Originally Posted by AutoUnionAG,Aug 1 2010, 10:47 AM
Drain your oil and check for coolant.. That'll tell you half the story, the other half will be told after a compression test.
08-01-2010, 09:52 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by AutoUnionAG,Aug 1 2010, 11:45 AM
Really cause I see this
Per gallon =-)
$2 < $12
E85 provides cooling properties which most would agree with as being much better for street car and from my experience makes the same power as c16 in most cases.
Cheers!
Per gallon =-)
$2 < $12
E85 provides cooling properties which most would agree with as being much better for street car and from my experience makes the same power as c16 in most cases.
Cheers!
I agree to disagree.
08-01-2010, 01:03 PM
#36
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Funny story. I heard of a tech leaving a rag in the coolant passage when he was raplacing a radiator and hoses.... forgot to tak the rag out when putting everything back together
Very similar symptoms as yours.
Very similar symptoms as yours.
08-01-2010, 02:55 PM
#38
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i was just thinkin about something that is rather simple but overlooked:
hp and tqu is also rated in kilowatts and btu heat production as well. cause face it, when you up the power, you up the heat created when making that power. so of course when you are boosting, you make more heat and your temps go up. this is not uncommon at all since youre in the 500whp range. do this: drop your boost down to like half of what it is at when you go out and romp on it. and see if your temps stay down. if thats the case, you may need the koyo radiator with thicker core holding more coolant.
your rpms and coolant are cycling so fast from the extreme increase in hp that your heat exchanger(rad) doesnt have enough "on deck" to keep you cool from the massive heat you are making.
just test it out and see what you get. run half the boost and mash it son!... then report back.
ALSO:
i went back through your thread trying to find some other "overlooked" issue and came across this:
the intake side of the headgasket has almost ALL of the coolant passages blocked! and it has nothing to do with the angle of the photo since you can tell the jackets are a darker black shade. the front ones are more open, but the back ones look like the spacer plate underneath was made wrong and is blocking the coolant passages altogether. someone else put an eye on this and tell me that doesnt look right at all.
here is a pic of my cometic 2mm. not the best pic, i know, but you can clearly see the passages for coolant are far different and are actually open much more than yours in the back and front.
hp and tqu is also rated in kilowatts and btu heat production as well. cause face it, when you up the power, you up the heat created when making that power. so of course when you are boosting, you make more heat and your temps go up. this is not uncommon at all since youre in the 500whp range. do this: drop your boost down to like half of what it is at when you go out and romp on it. and see if your temps stay down. if thats the case, you may need the koyo radiator with thicker core holding more coolant.
your rpms and coolant are cycling so fast from the extreme increase in hp that your heat exchanger(rad) doesnt have enough "on deck" to keep you cool from the massive heat you are making.
just test it out and see what you get. run half the boost and mash it son!... then report back.
ALSO:
i went back through your thread trying to find some other "overlooked" issue and came across this:
the intake side of the headgasket has almost ALL of the coolant passages blocked! and it has nothing to do with the angle of the photo since you can tell the jackets are a darker black shade. the front ones are more open, but the back ones look like the spacer plate underneath was made wrong and is blocking the coolant passages altogether. someone else put an eye on this and tell me that doesnt look right at all.
here is a pic of my cometic 2mm. not the best pic, i know, but you can clearly see the passages for coolant are far different and are actually open much more than yours in the back and front.
08-01-2010, 03:51 PM
#39
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Joey, does your thermostat open properly? I have seen those go bad (get signal, but do not open). You would have to take it out of the car and feed if voltage to see if the aperture opens and closes properly (might be able to listen to it, but not sure if you can tell with the motor running).
teamvalorracing:
I think it is the lighting on the pic, IMO. If you look at the coolant passages between cyl 1-2 (assumed order is 4-1-2-3, front to back... forgot since I sold it a while back), on the bottom side of Joey's pic, the metal on the exterior of the piston side wall looks almost identical to the ports that you say looked blocked up front. I know the port between 2-3 is not blocked, as you can see the curvature of the cylinder wall in the picture. Need a second angle to confirm either theory.
Also, people are running 600+rwhp with stock radiator (phils2k, I believe). I think stock should be safe up to 550-600ish. Much less if you track the car.
John
teamvalorracing:
I think it is the lighting on the pic, IMO. If you look at the coolant passages between cyl 1-2 (assumed order is 4-1-2-3, front to back... forgot since I sold it a while back), on the bottom side of Joey's pic, the metal on the exterior of the piston side wall looks almost identical to the ports that you say looked blocked up front. I know the port between 2-3 is not blocked, as you can see the curvature of the cylinder wall in the picture. Need a second angle to confirm either theory.
Also, people are running 600+rwhp with stock radiator (phils2k, I believe). I think stock should be safe up to 550-600ish. Much less if you track the car.
John
08-01-2010, 03:57 PM
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i think im dead-on!
this looks very wrong joey. if the ones in the back were indeed open, you would be able to see the piston wall in half of it and then open the other half.
its not about angles. its about not having any sort of gradient in the silver color meaning there isnt any virtical change in the metal like you see on the holes for the head bolts. the spaces where the passages are open on their top part of the gasket look like solid aluminum to me.
you can see where the piston wall ends in the front holes and even part of cyl one, but the back ones you cant even see the wall at all. and the cyl wall is oblong so it would def stick out in the back if it sticks out on the sides. look closer.
this looks very wrong joey. if the ones in the back were indeed open, you would be able to see the piston wall in half of it and then open the other half.
its not about angles. its about not having any sort of gradient in the silver color meaning there isnt any virtical change in the metal like you see on the holes for the head bolts. the spaces where the passages are open on their top part of the gasket look like solid aluminum to me.
you can see where the piston wall ends in the front holes and even part of cyl one, but the back ones you cant even see the wall at all. and the cyl wall is oblong so it would def stick out in the back if it sticks out on the sides. look closer.