Round 2, car overheated agian after
07-31-2010, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dsddcd,Jul 31 2010, 09:48 PM
Regardless of what everyone says a bolt on S2000 is only good for about 400WHP on pump gas and have decent reliability
That would have been fun, but I didn't want to push my luck. E85 is awesome, but not C16. Still no issues on my end except for traction. Haven't even touched the tune since Mase did it, but I still have a few tweaks in mind since the idle is changing a little bit.
07-31-2010, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kutsujula,Jul 31 2010, 04:04 PM
damn dude you have no luck what so ever
07-31-2010, 09:28 PM
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I don't know if you have pulled the plugs yet to see if you have coolant in the clynders on top of the pistons. Hopefully you don't. That would indicate if you have a blown HG. Of course a leakdown test as well. Another quick test. When the car is cold, take the radiator cap off and have someone start your car, if you get bubbles or a big bubble when the car starts, you have a blown HG. What you have is compression in your coolant system and the air is being forced through. When I saw this, I had a blown HG.
The biggest pain in the ass I have found is bleeding the system. Once you get that right, then you should be good.
Now when I use to live in FL, I installed a spoon thermastat and fan switch. It helped a lot. Car runs a lot cooler now. So far I have not had any HG issues since.
The biggest pain in the ass I have found is bleeding the system. Once you get that right, then you should be good.
Now when I use to live in FL, I installed a spoon thermastat and fan switch. It helped a lot. Car runs a lot cooler now. So far I have not had any HG issues since.
08-01-2010, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by dsddcd,Jul 31 2010, 07:48 PM
Joey, I know you are jealous of my car and want to be like me but this is going a bit overboard. 
I have been thinking about it a lot recently. Regardless of what everyone says a bolt on S2000 is only good for about 400WHP on pump gas and have decent reliability. I have read lots of post and talked to lots of people but for a person that wants a civilized street car this is true. That being said there are several things that need to be done correctly for it to be reliable.
(1) KPRO - I like my AEM but it is not well suited for the average enthusiast. I have spent an enormous amount of time trying to refine my tune but it is an iterative process and requires constant vigilance which leads to constant worry.
(2) Factory Head Gasket - No explanation needed I believe.
(3) Well made FI kit that requires minimal modifications to the car. There is a reason that so many kits like the Greddy and the Superchargers don't make big power and that is b/c they are by design more reliable as a hole. This is not to say other can't be but there are many more variables to consider.
(4) Lots of Time and Money to tinker with the car to get it right
To break or get near the 500WHP mark the bar must be raised a great deal. I estimate that to hit 400WHP you need between $8K-$10K. To take this step at least another $5K-$10K is needed.
(1) First you need to break into the motor and at minimum replace the pistons.
(2) Strengthen the drive train to handle the increased torque
(3) Even more time and money is needed and for me lots of drivability compromises need to be made.
Now there is only one exception to the above and that is E85. Using E85 the only real down side is increased oil service intervals and a small amount of money to upgrade the fuel system. So, IF you have stations around this can break the rules but you are still going to hit the 500WHP wall.
I am thinking about a few things lately and I have a good feeling I am going to be down grading.
I have been thinking about it a lot recently. Regardless of what everyone says a bolt on S2000 is only good for about 400WHP on pump gas and have decent reliability. I have read lots of post and talked to lots of people but for a person that wants a civilized street car this is true. That being said there are several things that need to be done correctly for it to be reliable.
(1) KPRO - I like my AEM but it is not well suited for the average enthusiast. I have spent an enormous amount of time trying to refine my tune but it is an iterative process and requires constant vigilance which leads to constant worry.
(2) Factory Head Gasket - No explanation needed I believe.
(3) Well made FI kit that requires minimal modifications to the car. There is a reason that so many kits like the Greddy and the Superchargers don't make big power and that is b/c they are by design more reliable as a hole. This is not to say other can't be but there are many more variables to consider.
(4) Lots of Time and Money to tinker with the car to get it right
To break or get near the 500WHP mark the bar must be raised a great deal. I estimate that to hit 400WHP you need between $8K-$10K. To take this step at least another $5K-$10K is needed.
(1) First you need to break into the motor and at minimum replace the pistons.
(2) Strengthen the drive train to handle the increased torque
(3) Even more time and money is needed and for me lots of drivability compromises need to be made.
Now there is only one exception to the above and that is E85. Using E85 the only real down side is increased oil service intervals and a small amount of money to upgrade the fuel system. So, IF you have stations around this can break the rules but you are still going to hit the 500WHP wall.
I am thinking about a few things lately and I have a good feeling I am going to be down grading.
, used evertything FTW!!!stock headgasket here, 426hp at 9psi
08-01-2010, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by D1sclaimer,Jul 31 2010, 08:35 PM
And you wanted me to go for 600whp. That would have been fun, but I didn't want to push my luck. E85 is awesome, but not C16.
That would have been fun, but I didn't want to push my luck. E85 is awesome, but not C16.
08-01-2010, 01:57 AM
#16
Like I said before, I think you have the same problem I had. A intermittently leaky head gasket. It only leaks a little bit, and only under boost. As such, it leaks from the combustion chamber into the coolant sleeve. After a very short time this leads to a vapor lock and over heating. The car passes all standard test, but the problem persists. Only solution is replace the head gasket.
But in my situation, that leaky head gasket was the symptom not the cause and because I didn't fix the cause I had to go through it twice.
But in my situation, that leaky head gasket was the symptom not the cause and because I didn't fix the cause I had to go through it twice.
08-01-2010, 04:55 AM
#17
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yea, I will bite the bullet and do the HG, (after a leakdown) but there is no way I am downgrading. I wanted a beast of a street car and thats what I got, unfortunately these types of things are going to happen. Unless it's raining everytime I drive my car I get on it pretty hard, and if its a nice weekend I am beating the shit out of it, so it is what it is......
I am just going to have to not make it my daily (which is smart anyway) and
I looked at my dataloggs and I did see two Spikes of Knock at 3.2v, however once was when I wasn't even in Boost, so it could have been something else, the majority of my datalogging, like 99.9% shows knock voltage no higher then 1.0 volts, so I don't think its the tune, I think its just the 21lbs of Boost I have been running on these really hot days.
I am just going to have to not make it my daily (which is smart anyway) and
I looked at my dataloggs and I did see two Spikes of Knock at 3.2v, however once was when I wasn't even in Boost, so it could have been something else, the majority of my datalogging, like 99.9% shows knock voltage no higher then 1.0 volts, so I don't think its the tune, I think its just the 21lbs of Boost I have been running on these really hot days.
08-01-2010, 06:08 AM
#20
Originally Posted by dsddcd,Jul 31 2010, 11:48 PM
Joey, I know you are jealous of my car and want to be like me but this is going a bit overboard.
I have been thinking about it a lot recently. Regardless of what everyone says a bolt on S2000 is only good for about 400WHP on pump gas and have decent reliability. I have read lots of post and talked to lots of people but for a person that wants a civilized street car this is true. That being said there are several things that need to be done correctly for it to be reliable.
(1) KPRO - I like my AEM but it is not well suited for the average enthusiast. I have spent an enormous amount of time trying to refine my tune but it is an iterative process and requires constant vigilance which leads to constant worry.
(2) Factory Head Gasket - No explanation needed I believe.
(3) Well made FI kit that requires minimal modifications to the car. There is a reason that so many kits like the Greddy and the Superchargers don't make big power and that is b/c they are by design more reliable as a hole. This is not to say other can't be but there are many more variables to consider.
(4) Lots of Time and Money to tinker with the car to get it right
To break or get near the 500WHP mark the bar must be raised a great deal. I estimate that to hit 400WHP you need between $8K-$10K. To take this step at least another $5K-$10K is needed.
(1) First you need to break into the motor and at minimum replace the pistons.
(2) Strengthen the drive train to handle the increased torque
(3) Even more time and money is needed and for me lots of drivability compromises need to be made.
Now there is only one exception to the above and that is E85. Using E85 the only real down side is increased oil service intervals and a small amount of money to upgrade the fuel system. So, IF you have stations around this can break the rules but you are still going to hit the 500WHP wall.
I am thinking about a few things lately and I have a good feeling I am going to be down grading.
I have been thinking about it a lot recently. Regardless of what everyone says a bolt on S2000 is only good for about 400WHP on pump gas and have decent reliability. I have read lots of post and talked to lots of people but for a person that wants a civilized street car this is true. That being said there are several things that need to be done correctly for it to be reliable.
(1) KPRO - I like my AEM but it is not well suited for the average enthusiast. I have spent an enormous amount of time trying to refine my tune but it is an iterative process and requires constant vigilance which leads to constant worry.
(2) Factory Head Gasket - No explanation needed I believe.
(3) Well made FI kit that requires minimal modifications to the car. There is a reason that so many kits like the Greddy and the Superchargers don't make big power and that is b/c they are by design more reliable as a hole. This is not to say other can't be but there are many more variables to consider.
(4) Lots of Time and Money to tinker with the car to get it right
To break or get near the 500WHP mark the bar must be raised a great deal. I estimate that to hit 400WHP you need between $8K-$10K. To take this step at least another $5K-$10K is needed.
(1) First you need to break into the motor and at minimum replace the pistons.
(2) Strengthen the drive train to handle the increased torque
(3) Even more time and money is needed and for me lots of drivability compromises need to be made.
Now there is only one exception to the above and that is E85. Using E85 the only real down side is increased oil service intervals and a small amount of money to upgrade the fuel system. So, IF you have stations around this can break the rules but you are still going to hit the 500WHP wall.
I am thinking about a few things lately and I have a good feeling I am going to be down grading.