Rebuilding the Novi 1000
08-06-2013, 11:29 AM
#81
Spoke to Paxton this afternoon, they were hopeless! The bloke I spoke too couldn't offer me any help on the Novi 1000 as the Paxton of late on took the company over two years ago and they discontinued the model straight away.
So no help from there then.
I'm going to strip mine down in a couple of months when winter sets in here.
Looks like that's the only way I can confirm exactly what I require.
I'm going to put the 62k speed rated ABEC 7/9 bearings in aswell. Just need to confirm the seals
So no help from there then.
I'm going to strip mine down in a couple of months when winter sets in here.
Looks like that's the only way I can confirm exactly what I require.
I'm going to put the 62k speed rated ABEC 7/9 bearings in aswell. Just need to confirm the seals
08-06-2013, 01:03 PM
#82
Jim I just spoke to them yesterday as well and the first thing he told me over the phone was that they don't rebuild the Novi 1000 anymore. I was calling about rebuilding a 1220, which FYI they charge $400 plus shipping for if anyone needs to know, lol.
10-08-2013, 02:58 PM
#84
In the next couple of weeks I will write a rebuild procedure. I have just stripped mine down and have received the bearings today/seals today.
I managed to get the correct (OEM) bearings and seals here in the UK for £190
I managed to get the correct (OEM) bearings and seals here in the UK for £190
12-23-2013, 10:24 AM
#85
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Any updates on providing a rebuild procedure? I just purchased a novi 1000 with a grenaded bearing and any insight/experience rebuilding it would be appreciated. I'm debating sending it to superchargerrebuilds.com, but wonder if their unbalanced compressor wheel caused the bearing behind it to self-destruct in the first place.
EDIT: Yes, I know I'm going to need to replace the compressor wheel as well, as it obviously got destroyed when it contacted the compressor housing due to the bearing failure.
EDIT: Yes, I know I'm going to need to replace the compressor wheel as well, as it obviously got destroyed when it contacted the compressor housing due to the bearing failure.
01-03-2014, 02:49 PM
#86
Sorry I've been mega busy over the Christmas period. I'll try and draft something up as soon as I get chance.
I will try and answer any question you have in the mean time.
I will try and answer any question you have in the mean time.
09-22-2014, 12:42 AM
#88
I'll upload all the pictures this week as they're on my work PC (back at work tomorrow).
If you heat the impeller with a blow torch to approximately 200'c you will be able to lift it off by hand (with proper gloves or pliers). Do not apply excessive heat though or you will damage the impeller output seal.
Obviously you will need to clamp the input shaft and remove the impeller nut first.
You may require a full rebuild though as what cause the impeller damage?
If you heat the impeller with a blow torch to approximately 200'c you will be able to lift it off by hand (with proper gloves or pliers). Do not apply excessive heat though or you will damage the impeller output seal.
Obviously you will need to clamp the input shaft and remove the impeller nut first.
You may require a full rebuild though as what cause the impeller damage?
09-22-2014, 03:58 AM
#89
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You can heat the impeller.
I just rebuilt my N1220SL (Vortech V3). Pretty easy if you have an impact gun, a press and a bearing puller.
I bought the kit from superchargerrebuilds.com and performed the work myself.
Simply remove from car empty of oil if self contained.
Remove all hardware and pulley.
Mark the scroll (volute) with the casing to correctly reinstall it and remove it
Mark impeller depth and position on shaft.
Use a rag or towel to hold the impeller and remove nut from it with impact gun (check if clockwise or counter clockwise!)
Remove bolts holding front cover (cover in which the input shaft goes through).
There are grooves on each ends to separate it past the dowel pins with a flat screwdriver. Separate little by little until you can wiggle and twist it off by hand. Do not pry it too much.
**Washers and wave washers or thrust washers: the amount and position of these may vary for different blower models and applications. Make sure you note where they are located and reposition accordingly. My V3 had them in both covers on both shafts. Some may be in the front cover only, others can have one in the front cover and one in the rear case cover underneath the shafts that will be removed. The size of them will easily let you know on which shaft they go.
Support the rear cover with the gears and shafts on its very edges face down on the press to press out the impeller shaft.
It must be supported on its edges in order for the large gear to come out without hitting the support. Check before pressing. The large gear and shaft can be removed after pressing out the impeller shaft a little. Be careful and be ready to catch it with your hand, don't let it fall. Once removed, finish pressing out the impeller shaft from the impeller. You might need a pointy punch to finish it off.
If you don't have a press, bring it to a shop and have them remove and install the new bearings as well.
Otherwise, press out the old bearings out of the shafts using a bearing puller and press. You will have to separate the one close to the output shaft gear with a small pry bar or screwdriver a little bit first.
To reinstall here's a good clip including seals:
http://youtu.be/TKmj5jTPClY
I heated my bearings a bit with a heat gun but had to finish them up on the press. Press only on inside bearing race!!!
Once new seals and bearings are installed, clean everything up, heat rear cover with a heat gun and slide shafts back in with oil on bearings. You have to be straight and precise on this operation. Do not pull or pry or you will separate the small high speed bearing in the cover. Do not forget to put the wave washers in first if necessary!!!
Oil up outside bearings, put washers/wave washers back in the front cover and put the covers back together on their side so the washers don't fall out. Bolt it up using a drop of blue LockTite.
Reinstall pulley and hand rotate to listen and feel if everything is fine.
If everything is, press impeller back on in original "clocked" position, but not all the way in. Leave a bit to finish off with the impact gun, holding the impeller with a towel, to its original depth. Use blue LockTite on impeller nut.
Reinstall the scroll (volute) in original position and clamp down. I also use a drop of blue LockTite on the clamp bolts.
Reinstall and have a beer!
Here's another great clip from Jon Bond on rebuilding and parts examination:
http://youtu.be/zSEYA0u7UnE
Good luck, cheers!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just rebuilt my N1220SL (Vortech V3). Pretty easy if you have an impact gun, a press and a bearing puller.
I bought the kit from superchargerrebuilds.com and performed the work myself.
Simply remove from car empty of oil if self contained.
Remove all hardware and pulley.
Mark the scroll (volute) with the casing to correctly reinstall it and remove it
Mark impeller depth and position on shaft.
Use a rag or towel to hold the impeller and remove nut from it with impact gun (check if clockwise or counter clockwise!)
Remove bolts holding front cover (cover in which the input shaft goes through).
There are grooves on each ends to separate it past the dowel pins with a flat screwdriver. Separate little by little until you can wiggle and twist it off by hand. Do not pry it too much.
**Washers and wave washers or thrust washers: the amount and position of these may vary for different blower models and applications. Make sure you note where they are located and reposition accordingly. My V3 had them in both covers on both shafts. Some may be in the front cover only, others can have one in the front cover and one in the rear case cover underneath the shafts that will be removed. The size of them will easily let you know on which shaft they go.
Support the rear cover with the gears and shafts on its very edges face down on the press to press out the impeller shaft.
It must be supported on its edges in order for the large gear to come out without hitting the support. Check before pressing. The large gear and shaft can be removed after pressing out the impeller shaft a little. Be careful and be ready to catch it with your hand, don't let it fall. Once removed, finish pressing out the impeller shaft from the impeller. You might need a pointy punch to finish it off.
If you don't have a press, bring it to a shop and have them remove and install the new bearings as well.
Otherwise, press out the old bearings out of the shafts using a bearing puller and press. You will have to separate the one close to the output shaft gear with a small pry bar or screwdriver a little bit first.
To reinstall here's a good clip including seals:
http://youtu.be/TKmj5jTPClY
I heated my bearings a bit with a heat gun but had to finish them up on the press. Press only on inside bearing race!!!
Once new seals and bearings are installed, clean everything up, heat rear cover with a heat gun and slide shafts back in with oil on bearings. You have to be straight and precise on this operation. Do not pull or pry or you will separate the small high speed bearing in the cover. Do not forget to put the wave washers in first if necessary!!!
Oil up outside bearings, put washers/wave washers back in the front cover and put the covers back together on their side so the washers don't fall out. Bolt it up using a drop of blue LockTite.
Reinstall pulley and hand rotate to listen and feel if everything is fine.
If everything is, press impeller back on in original "clocked" position, but not all the way in. Leave a bit to finish off with the impact gun, holding the impeller with a towel, to its original depth. Use blue LockTite on impeller nut.
Reinstall the scroll (volute) in original position and clamp down. I also use a drop of blue LockTite on the clamp bolts.
Reinstall and have a beer!
Here's another great clip from Jon Bond on rebuilding and parts examination:
http://youtu.be/zSEYA0u7UnE
Good luck, cheers!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
09-22-2014, 04:45 AM
#90
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hey guys i was hoping i wouldnt have to press or heat it out, i bought a novi 1000 second hand and only realised two impeller fins have been dremmelled or filled in the middle of the fin. this damage has got me worried incase it breaks under boost so i want to replace the impeller, the bearing seem fine and is no play although i am suspect of the impeller being out of balance. im pretty sure im quite capable of rebuilding it as im a mechanic just dont want to spend money on parts and not get it done or break something.
