reading spark plugs after WOT?
#1
reading spark plugs after WOT?
Now I am starting to do some fuel and ignition trimming in each cylinder. After a WOT 3rd on the street and driving back about 5 miles back to my house, would I still be able to see the "pepper" if it's knocking and white electrodes if running lean? My idle and cruising AFR is around 13.7-14.8 AFR.
#3
actually i just did several pulls while driving to my house, and let the car cool down for few minutes and here are the results. Please let me know what you guys think. The highest knock volts I got was around 2V. Cylinder #1 is farthest to the right. I'm assuming Cylinder #1 is closest to the radiator. Please click twice on the image and zoom in to get the largest view. All of these spark plugs have only seen 50 miles at most. AFR's at WOT is 12.5 from 3k to 4.5k rpm and from 4.5 to redline is about 11.5. I shined a light on the spark plug, so the color does not show up well, but the electrodes have a slight beige/gray color to it.
Some notes (when i say salt n pepper, there are some slight specs on the electrode and ceramic, but not alot compared to some of the pictures i saw on google, and most of them are SALT and maybe one or two specs of PEPPER):
Cyl#1: Brown half way around the ceramic. Salt n pepper on brown side of ceramic and electrode. Top of electrode crusty looking.
Cyl#2: 7/8 around ceramic brown. salt n pepper one side of electrode and all around ceramic.
Cyl#3: 7/8 around ceramic brown. salt and pepper on electrode and ceramic. top of electrode looks crusty.
Cyl#4: 3/4 around cermic is brown. salt and pepper on ceramic but none on electrode.
Some notes (when i say salt n pepper, there are some slight specs on the electrode and ceramic, but not alot compared to some of the pictures i saw on google, and most of them are SALT and maybe one or two specs of PEPPER):
Cyl#1: Brown half way around the ceramic. Salt n pepper on brown side of ceramic and electrode. Top of electrode crusty looking.
Cyl#2: 7/8 around ceramic brown. salt n pepper one side of electrode and all around ceramic.
Cyl#3: 7/8 around ceramic brown. salt and pepper on electrode and ceramic. top of electrode looks crusty.
Cyl#4: 3/4 around cermic is brown. salt and pepper on ceramic but none on electrode.
#4
I'd say you may be running a touch lean with the crusty stuff and this could be causing detonation. Or your AFR which seems right by the numbers may not be causing the detonation signs, but too much ignition advance may be. I would clean the plugs, make an adjustment to either the fuel or timing and do more runs. Only change one thing at a time. What set up are you running anyway?
#5
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Jan 12 2011, 08:31 PM
I'd say you may be running a touch lean with the crusty stuff and this could be causing detonation. Or your AFR which seems right by the numbers may not be causing the detonation signs, but too much ignition advance may be. I would clean the plugs, make an adjustment to either the fuel or timing and do more runs. Only change one thing at a time. What set up are you running anyway?
#7
Registered User
If you don't read the plugs right after a pull it's pretty much useless information. Once you idle or drive around on the plug it's not going to give you much information.
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#8
Originally Posted by boostedf22c,Jan 13 2011, 11:15 AM
If you don't read the plugs right after a pull it's pretty much useless information. Once you idle or drive around on the plug it's not going to give you much information.
#9
Originally Posted by spectacle,Jan 13 2011, 11:09 AM
Is there a specific reason why you cant get on a dyno and let a professional tune your car?
On a side note, I did some fuel trimming on individual cylinders and that seemed to help with keeping things cool and getting rid of some of the specs found on the ceramic part of the spark plug.
#10
Registered User
Originally Posted by purekoryo,Jan 13 2011, 09:02 PM
even on a dyno, dont you have to let it idle after a pull to let it cool down for couple minuites?
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