You will probably gain midrange/low end power once you add the disc in there.

-Freddy

 

im all for the fit and finish of this kit, most of all everyone's review after owning one (that's what is most important to me). But is this ^ serious?!?!

most should know what boost creep is and why the disc was designed.

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i do not run the disc and i have a full 3 inch custom single exhaust system with no cat and i can run 13psi fine with out any boost creep. I also run an open wastegate dump tube.

Here is a pic of my 13psi boost plot on 91 octane. Blue line is 91 octane at 13psi and red line is e85 at about 20 psi.




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Riceball By running the open dump your 3" exh. Becomes the most restrictive. Causing the pressure to be forced towards WG.

high pressure seeks low pressure. Heavy objects can fly because of this fact.

I highly doubt he will pick up mid-range by using a disc designed to restrict the down pipe alternately to achieve what you did but with a re-circ.

That was my only qualm :suspicious:

With the re-circ the pressures must be similar so it takes the more natural flow, which is through the collector (instead of a 90* turn out WG) so the disc offsets the pressure by creating more towards the dp and turbine. But like I said "I highly doubt"...cause this would be counter intuitive by saying it will spool faster to make more mid-range or low end trq.

Any extra pressure/energy past the turbine is a restriction, not only to total output, but to low end mid-range trq. Because this entire powerband is equated to the response and spool of both the turbine and compressor and how well it can flow. I started seeing actual spool and psi (compressor) = trq. And the turbine = whp imo. A lot more to it then that and what you want it to behave like but it's like analysis I see.

 

Right we don't advertise it, but we have seen it with actually doing it rather than just theory.

-Freddy

 

Did i mention i was open dump as well? My tuner couldnt keep the boost at 11psi. He said he zeroed out the boost solenoid and that it would keep creeping to 16psi.

 

Because of the creep your tuner might be trying to control psi early, possibly losing said low end trq/turbine energy your looking for. Add the disc so he will be more "comfortable" tuning a more consistent boost plot. You won't make the same #'s (given) but you should fix the creep as the tune is probably leaning towards the "safe" side.

I can see Freddy's (ptuning) point in actually doing it, and making the down low trq by adding a disc (because then you can tgt your total psi as quick as possible and tune for it with consistency)... But if it didn't creep in the first place it could have more flow everywhere and better all around power curve. You can't have your cake and eat it to tho. Not trying to be disrespectful, the kit is a good piece. That should fix the creep issue, your just trading 3/4 of an inch of exh. Flow for it. (Assuming ur 3")

The characteristics and definition of creep and most if not all the info above still stands. Even tho. Ur open dump doesn't change the fact that you in particular/kit is creeping. In your case the natural flow is still choosing the collector to turbine, you have to offset it more then.

You should make a list of all specs per modifications, mostly turbo frame size, ARs and exhaust. As you can see (riceball) situation, not every experience is the same.

 

The issue with the exhaust disc would be for people like myself that run a full flex fuel tune. I make 425whp on 91 octane and almost 600whp on E85. I go run 91 octane and to E85 all the time and I mix the 2 fuels all the time. The aem v2 will automatically raise boost and timing with the high concentrations of ethanol. That tiny 2.25 exhaust restrict or would be a huge restriction and kill power at the 550-650whp power level.

 

in the instructions for the install, it mentions modifying the headlight casing... any input on best way to do this? or if there is a way to avoid that? and has anyone had issue with oil changes with the oil pump T connection that goes into the drain hole? maybe an option would be to tap the pan to avoid having to disconnect the fitting each oil change?

 

The first time I removed both headlight brackets and modified them with a cut off wheel. The last couple times I said **** it and just left them on the car and used some tin snips. You disconnect the one AN fitting from the fitting you installed to replace the drain bolt and you are done. It isn't any more difficult than a normal oil change. You would have to remove the oil drain bolt each oil change anyways.