PTUNING S2000 Turbo System (Pics, Dyno, Pricing)
#2591
Registered User
I had noticed a coolant leak where the inside coolant hose clamps onto the banjo bolt (which screws into the turbo) at the end of last year.
I had since purchased brand new coolant lines from PTuning and installed them on the car about a month ago.
This past weekend while I was installing PTuning's test disc into my exhaust (to control my boost creep issues) I found that the leak is back again, leaking from the same connection.....but this time it's leaking from both hoses at the turbo!!!
The pre-tension clamp that PTuning has on the hoses doesn't seem to be tight enough (I can turn the hose while it clamped on the banjo bolt)
I don't want to purchase another set of hoses from PTuning unless they are going to change this design (different clamping method). It was a PITA to change it the first time.
I am thinking of taking the turbo out, cutting the clamps off and installing worm clamps on there.
Any thoughts/ideas?
PTuning please chime in.
Has this happened to anyone else with the PTuning Kit?
On a good note so far, no boost creep, no boost cut with the PTuning test disc!!!!
[attachment=36250:IMG_0698.jpg]
This is where the leaky connection is.
I had since purchased brand new coolant lines from PTuning and installed them on the car about a month ago.
This past weekend while I was installing PTuning's test disc into my exhaust (to control my boost creep issues) I found that the leak is back again, leaking from the same connection.....but this time it's leaking from both hoses at the turbo!!!
The pre-tension clamp that PTuning has on the hoses doesn't seem to be tight enough (I can turn the hose while it clamped on the banjo bolt)
I don't want to purchase another set of hoses from PTuning unless they are going to change this design (different clamping method). It was a PITA to change it the first time.
I am thinking of taking the turbo out, cutting the clamps off and installing worm clamps on there.
Any thoughts/ideas?
PTuning please chime in.
Has this happened to anyone else with the PTuning Kit?
On a good note so far, no boost creep, no boost cut with the PTuning test disc!!!!
[attachment=36250:IMG_0698.jpg]
This is where the leaky connection is.
Mrc
#2592
Going to do any back to back dyno comparisons. Or atleast a write up on before/after intake air temps? whats pricing expected to be? just a ballpark... sub $250... $250-500... $500-750...$750+
#2593
Originally Posted by Forcedbird' timestamp='1364317771' post='22429648
I had noticed a coolant leak where the inside coolant hose clamps onto the banjo bolt (which screws into the turbo) at the end of last year.
I had since purchased brand new coolant lines from PTuning and installed them on the car about a month ago.
This past weekend while I was installing PTuning's test disc into my exhaust (to control my boost creep issues) I found that the leak is back again, leaking from the same connection.....but this time it's leaking from both hoses at the turbo!!!
The pre-tension clamp that PTuning has on the hoses doesn't seem to be tight enough (I can turn the hose while it clamped on the banjo bolt)
I don't want to purchase another set of hoses from PTuning unless they are going to change this design (different clamping method). It was a PITA to change it the first time.
I am thinking of taking the turbo out, cutting the clamps off and installing worm clamps on there.
Any thoughts/ideas?
PTuning please chime in.
Has this happened to anyone else with the PTuning Kit?
On a good note so far, no boost creep, no boost cut with the PTuning test disc!!!!
[attachment=36250:IMG_0698.jpg]
This is where the leaky connection is.
I had since purchased brand new coolant lines from PTuning and installed them on the car about a month ago.
This past weekend while I was installing PTuning's test disc into my exhaust (to control my boost creep issues) I found that the leak is back again, leaking from the same connection.....but this time it's leaking from both hoses at the turbo!!!
The pre-tension clamp that PTuning has on the hoses doesn't seem to be tight enough (I can turn the hose while it clamped on the banjo bolt)
I don't want to purchase another set of hoses from PTuning unless they are going to change this design (different clamping method). It was a PITA to change it the first time.
I am thinking of taking the turbo out, cutting the clamps off and installing worm clamps on there.
Any thoughts/ideas?
PTuning please chime in.
Has this happened to anyone else with the PTuning Kit?
On a good note so far, no boost creep, no boost cut with the PTuning test disc!!!!
[attachment=36250:IMG_0698.jpg]
This is where the leaky connection is.
Mrc
#2595
PTuning.......since I need to drop the turbo again to clamp the coolant lines, I need to purchase the oil drain gasket (gasket that goes between the turbo and the oil drain tube).
I have the GTX 3076R turbo.
I'd like to get it done this weekend.
Thanks
I have the GTX 3076R turbo.
I'd like to get it done this weekend.
Thanks
#2596
Registered User
Please give us a call and ask for Brandon, he can assist you with purchasing the gasket.
#2597
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
#2598
Pre 1. Remove intake tube.
1. Disconnect the turbo oil line at the tee at the engine oil drain and drain the oil.
2. Disconnect the turbo coolant lines at the throttle body ( you don't need to drain the coolant). Put a towel under for slight leaks.
3. Loosen slightly at the wastegate clamp near the turbosmart wastegate (makes install easier if you don't remove totally).
4. If you have a recirculated wastegate tube, then remove the wasetgate clamp at the downpipe, then remove downpipe.
5. Remove vband holding the turbo and let it drop. Tuck the coolant lines under.
6. Remove the wires from the oil pressure sensor. Push back any wires that will get in the way of this area.
7. Pull the turbo out of the engine, wriggling and pushing against the oil cooler bypass hose.
You don't need to remove the oil drain line at the turbo, so no need for the new oil drain gasket. You DO NEED TO replace the copper crush washer at the coolant lines. Ask how I now. Just got some oversized crushed washer at Orielly's and made it fit. Couldn't find the exact size locally.
FYI: never had issue with overheating, air in coolant system if done this way...
#2599
Can anyone give me advice on tuning the idle area with this kit for when the fan comes on? Basically the car idles great otherwise (still working on the tune though) but as soon as the fan comes on (in idle) it pretty much craps out. Should I increase my ignition timing vs RPM map? I'm at a loss.
I'm on AEM EMS v2 (AEMtuner).
I'm on AEM EMS v2 (AEMtuner).
#2600
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Hey guys, I want to chime in here to clear up some things about the fan issue.
I'm not sure if you all noticed, but we didn't absolutely need to include an aftermarket fan with our turbo system. During the design process, we felt that running an intercooler pipe between the huge passenger side factory fan shroud and the engine cross member was a serious compromise in design and eliminating the headlamp/bumper bracket was not something we wanted to do either. Essentially we would not have been able to run a 2.5" pipe through there without having it sit up against the shroud and crossmember.
We went to great lengths to design factory style mounts for our intercooler pipes and to make sure that no pipes rubbed up against any engine bay components when the engine moved. We got greedy in our quest to design the ultimate turbo system and made a decision to include a kick ass, top of the line, high CFM, SPAL fan and custom bracketry with our setup. Although now, we're thinking that maybe we should have saved ourselves the time and headache by using smaller intercooler piping on the hotside and simply retaining the factory fan assembly like other manufacturers.
For the record, the fan has a very high instantaneous current draw when it kicks on. This is the SOLE reason for some owners seeing rpm drops. It has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with hot air being blown onto the filter or the design of our setup... it's simply the fan kicking on. Cars running K-Pro and Flash Pro deal with this instantaneous current draw much better than the AEM EMS does. With Hondata being factory based ECU's probably explains this somewhat.
Also, during the prototyping stages, we never experience ANY idle drop issues, even on an AEM EMS equipped S2K.
Anyhow, by no means should hope be lost. EMS owners can forward me their maps and I will alter a few idle parameters to help cope with this idle drop. If you are still experiencing the exact same problem, it is possible to purchase and wire in this item from SPAL, although we have not found the need to do so yet:
http://www.jaycorptech.com/pc-37-16-...version-3.aspx
Hope this helps to clear things up. Thanks for reading.
- Toan
I'm not sure if you all noticed, but we didn't absolutely need to include an aftermarket fan with our turbo system. During the design process, we felt that running an intercooler pipe between the huge passenger side factory fan shroud and the engine cross member was a serious compromise in design and eliminating the headlamp/bumper bracket was not something we wanted to do either. Essentially we would not have been able to run a 2.5" pipe through there without having it sit up against the shroud and crossmember.
We went to great lengths to design factory style mounts for our intercooler pipes and to make sure that no pipes rubbed up against any engine bay components when the engine moved. We got greedy in our quest to design the ultimate turbo system and made a decision to include a kick ass, top of the line, high CFM, SPAL fan and custom bracketry with our setup. Although now, we're thinking that maybe we should have saved ourselves the time and headache by using smaller intercooler piping on the hotside and simply retaining the factory fan assembly like other manufacturers.
For the record, the fan has a very high instantaneous current draw when it kicks on. This is the SOLE reason for some owners seeing rpm drops. It has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with hot air being blown onto the filter or the design of our setup... it's simply the fan kicking on. Cars running K-Pro and Flash Pro deal with this instantaneous current draw much better than the AEM EMS does. With Hondata being factory based ECU's probably explains this somewhat.
Also, during the prototyping stages, we never experience ANY idle drop issues, even on an AEM EMS equipped S2K.
Anyhow, by no means should hope be lost. EMS owners can forward me their maps and I will alter a few idle parameters to help cope with this idle drop. If you are still experiencing the exact same problem, it is possible to purchase and wire in this item from SPAL, although we have not found the need to do so yet:
http://www.jaycorptech.com/pc-37-16-...version-3.aspx
Hope this helps to clear things up. Thanks for reading.
- Toan