MrC@PTUNING

That is very odd, the pinch hose clamps are pretty solid. We've never have an issue with them. Can you tell me if the current clamps that are on your car has the single ear or double ear clamp. For now i would suggest just using a SS worm clamp so you don't have any downtime sending it back to us to reclamp it. Make sure you rebleed your coolant system properly afterwards.

Mrc

Prokaw875

Going to do any back to back dyno comparisons. Or atleast a write up on before/after intake air temps? whats pricing expected to be? just a ballpark... sub $250... $250-500... $500-750...$750+

Forcedbird

I'll have to get back to you about the single ear or double ear clamps.

sata3000

What spark plugs are you guys using and what gap are you running them?

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Forcedbird

PTuning.......since I need to drop the turbo again to clamp the coolant lines, I need to purchase the oil drain gasket (gasket that goes between the turbo and the oil drain tube).

I have the GTX 3076R turbo.

I'd like to get it done this weekend.

Thanks

MrC@PTUNING

Please give us a call and ask for Brandon, he can assist you with purchasing the gasket.

miguel329

If you didn't you already.you should buy the locking tabs for the turbo aswell. Mrc supplies them keeps bolts from coming out and destroying turbo shaft.

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indi00

Think I'm a pro at pulling the turbo out. Took out the turbo too many times to count. I needed to replace the turbo due to the FAILED tail housing bolts, then had to re-clock the turbo a couple times to make it fit, then found out I needed new crush washers to seal the coolant lines...

Pre 1. Remove intake tube.
1. Disconnect the turbo oil line at the tee at the engine oil drain and drain the oil.
2. Disconnect the turbo coolant lines at the throttle body ( you don't need to drain the coolant). Put a towel under for slight leaks.
3. Loosen slightly at the wastegate clamp near the turbosmart wastegate (makes install easier if you don't remove totally).
4. If you have a recirculated wastegate tube, then remove the wasetgate clamp at the downpipe, then remove downpipe.
5. Remove vband holding the turbo and let it drop. Tuck the coolant lines under.
6. Remove the wires from the oil pressure sensor. Push back any wires that will get in the way of this area.
7. Pull the turbo out of the engine, wriggling and pushing against the oil cooler bypass hose.

You don't need to remove the oil drain line at the turbo, so no need for the new oil drain gasket. You DO NEED TO replace the copper crush washer at the coolant lines. Ask how I now. Just got some oversized crushed washer at Orielly's and made it fit. Couldn't find the exact size locally.

FYI: never had issue with overheating, air in coolant system if done this way...

indi00

On the Fuel map, column 500rpm and Map pressure of -2 to -7, I added more fuel to these cells. Values like 2 to 3 to increase the A/F so that when the RPM drops down to this area when the fan kicks in, the motor hangs on long enough to be able to equilibrates back to idle. Most of the time I can feel when the coolant fans kicks in and so I would just blip the throttle.

Ptuning

Hey guys, I want to chime in here to clear up some things about the fan issue.

I'm not sure if you all noticed, but we didn't absolutely need to include an aftermarket fan with our turbo system. During the design process, we felt that running an intercooler pipe between the huge passenger side factory fan shroud and the engine cross member was a serious compromise in design and eliminating the headlamp/bumper bracket was not something we wanted to do either. Essentially we would not have been able to run a 2.5" pipe through there without having it sit up against the shroud and crossmember.

We went to great lengths to design factory style mounts for our intercooler pipes and to make sure that no pipes rubbed up against any engine bay components when the engine moved. We got greedy in our quest to design the ultimate turbo system and made a decision to include a kick ass, top of the line, high CFM, SPAL fan and custom bracketry with our setup. Although now, we're thinking that maybe we should have saved ourselves the time and headache by using smaller intercooler piping on the hotside and simply retaining the factory fan assembly like other manufacturers.

For the record, the fan has a very high instantaneous current draw when it kicks on. This is the SOLE reason for some owners seeing rpm drops. It has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with hot air being blown onto the filter or the design of our setup... it's simply the fan kicking on. Cars running K-Pro and Flash Pro deal with this instantaneous current draw much better than the AEM EMS does. With Hondata being factory based ECU's probably explains this somewhat.

Also, during the prototyping stages, we never experience ANY idle drop issues, even on an AEM EMS equipped S2K.

Anyhow, by no means should hope be lost. EMS owners can forward me their maps and I will alter a few idle parameters to help cope with this idle drop. If you are still experiencing the exact same problem, it is possible to purchase and wire in this item from SPAL, although we have not found the need to do so yet:

http://www.jaycorptech.com/pc-37-16-...version-3.aspx

Hope this helps to clear things up. Thanks for reading.

- Toan