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PTUNING S2000 Turbo System (Pics, Dyno, Pricing)

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Old 08-31-2011, 08:11 AM
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Think it would hold no problem?
Old 08-31-2011, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by sata3000
I dont wanna sounds like a puss but I was afraid of the power at first.. I really needed to learn the car again. Also when I do my 2 step launch I can smell it really bad. I'm looking to invest in a twin disk clutch to get it over with.
Nothing to be ashamed of. Everyone isn't used to the power the first time they get to that level.

Try adjusting the clutch closer so the engagement point is closer to the floor.
Old 08-31-2011, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sata3000
Think it would hold no problem?
its said to hold 300% more torque than stock. dont see why it wouldnt hold
Old 08-31-2011, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by HMFIC
Originally Posted by sata3000' timestamp='1314806080' post='20931051
I dont wanna sounds like a puss but I was afraid of the power at first.. I really needed to learn the car again. Also when I do my 2 step launch I can smell it really bad. I'm looking to invest in a twin disk clutch to get it over with.
Nothing to be ashamed of. Everyone isn't used to the power the first time they get to that level.

Try adjusting the clutch closer so the engagement point is closer to the floor.
I wish I knew how.
Old 08-31-2011, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by sata3000
Originally Posted by HMFIC' timestamp='1314807390' post='20931106
[quote name='sata3000' timestamp='1314806080' post='20931051']
I dont wanna sounds like a puss but I was afraid of the power at first.. I really needed to learn the car again. Also when I do my 2 step launch I can smell it really bad. I'm looking to invest in a twin disk clutch to get it over with.
Nothing to be ashamed of. Everyone isn't used to the power the first time they get to that level.

Try adjusting the clutch closer so the engagement point is closer to the floor.
I wish I knew how.
[/quote]

oh! very easily my friend!

If you look behind the clutch pedal, there is a rod there. That rod is the rod to the clutch master cylinder. There is a nut on the rod that you loosen. Just a couple of turns. I believe it may be a 12mm i can't remember it's been awhile. Anyways...then you turn the rod clock wise maybe one or two complete turns? then tighten the nut. IT COULD be counter clockwise as i stated, it's been quite a while since i've been under there.

But either way, i'm sure you can figure it out. Just turn the rod one complete rotation and then hop in, pushed the pedal to the floor, throw it in first and slowly release the clutch pedal and see where it's grabbing. If its grabbing closer to the floor, then you've turned the rod the right way. and then adjust how you like it. Obviously if its engaging closer to you, turn the rod the other way.

After you've gotten it where you like it, tighten the nut. and you're good to go!
Old 08-31-2011, 08:59 AM
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On the clutch slip issue, AP2s have a restrictor in the clutch line to prevent the clutch from being released too quickly. Honda did this after on AP1s, everyone was doing 9k rpm clutch drops and grenading the rear diff. Mitsubishi did the same thing on 2005+ Evos along with a rev limiter while in idle (~5500rpms IIRC); guys with the 2003-2004 Evos were dumping the clutch at 7k rpms on launches and frying them in 3k miles along with drivetrain components.

My stock AP2 will slip on the 3-4 shift and the 4-5 shift if I shift too quickly due to the clutch released being slowed by the built-in restrictor. There's a thread on here somewhere on how to take it out.
Old 08-31-2011, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by spdracerut
On the clutch slip issue, AP2s have a restrictor in the clutch line to prevent the clutch from being released too quickly. Honda did this after on AP1s, everyone was doing 9k rpm clutch drops and grenading the rear diff. Mitsubishi did the same thing on 2005+ Evos along with a rev limiter while in idle (~5500rpms IIRC); guys with the 2003-2004 Evos were dumping the clutch at 7k rpms on launches and frying them in 3k miles along with drivetrain components.

My stock AP2 will slip on the 3-4 shift and the 4-5 shift if I shift too quickly due to the clutch released being slowed by the built-in restrictor. There's a thread on here somewhere on how to take it out.
Good point. I have an ap2 and that was the first mod i've done along with the clutch swap. I should've asked if his car was ap2 or ap1.

The CDV makes a HUGE different once taken out.
Old 08-31-2011, 09:30 AM
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HMFIC I just need to get up to a meet up your way one of these days. I'm down in Richmond so not too terribly far away. I'd love to go for a ride.

Only boosted s2k I ever rode in was Chad's (black nugget) and I think that was putting down a hair over 400rwhp. Most of you guys with this ptuning kit still on the stock rear diff? Needless to say it was a blast. I think I'd be pretty happy with low 300's
Old 08-31-2011, 09:36 AM
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I'm AP2.Running stock diff. I like to learn how to remove CDV
Old 08-31-2011, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by sata3000
I'm AP2.Running stock diff. I like to learn how to remove CDV
Ahh!!! that's it. spdracerut picked up the rice with the chopsticks. That could very well be your issue. Get that removed quickly. There is a DIY. It's very simple to do, but you'll need to take off the Clutch slave cylinder as the CDV is inside it. You'll have to disconnect the clutch line as well. If you ever planned on putting a stainless steel line for a clutch line, that would be the time.

You'll need a pick. Sears sells them. once you see the DIY, you'll see pics and understand what i'm talking about.


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