possible rod knock?
#31
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I found this on Spark plug diagnostics
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/t.../diagnosis.htm
It's not as white as you're talking about. it is kinda grey but no deposits. I'll take some better shots from a better camera.
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/t.../diagnosis.htm
It's not as white as you're talking about. it is kinda grey but no deposits. I'll take some better shots from a better camera.
#32
everyone is making this more confusing.
via email i explained the oil on the plugs. since u say you have oil on the coil, that i can almost promise you its from the seal on the valve cover. When u took the plugs out. that oil dropped into the motor.
Im sorry for anyone that thinks they can tell a motor is running too lean via a couple pictures from cell phones is just plain wrong. the car runs lean while not in load. thats the whole point. Many things affects plugs. most fully built motors dont always burn exactly the same between cylinders. between ring gaps/valve seals/mileage on plugs/fuel composition etc etc etc.
Further, dont get all crazy worried and bent out of shape until you know whats going on.
My best guess is something within the cylinder head. It could be something as simple as a valve lash nut loose or TCT.
Could it be a spun bearing? its certainly possible. The spun bearings ive heard do not sound like your car did IMO.
This is the order i would follow:
Pull the valve cover. Check all lash adjustments. Visually look at the cam assembly see if you can see anything out of the ordinary. Check timing chain tensioner.
If no avail. drain oil in a clean pan. Use a flash light to detect any metal flaking. If it was a spun bearing most of the time you will be able to see lots of metal flakes.
If still no answers, do a leak down test on the motor.
Dont get all bent out of shape until you know what is wrong.
via email i explained the oil on the plugs. since u say you have oil on the coil, that i can almost promise you its from the seal on the valve cover. When u took the plugs out. that oil dropped into the motor.
Im sorry for anyone that thinks they can tell a motor is running too lean via a couple pictures from cell phones is just plain wrong. the car runs lean while not in load. thats the whole point. Many things affects plugs. most fully built motors dont always burn exactly the same between cylinders. between ring gaps/valve seals/mileage on plugs/fuel composition etc etc etc.
Further, dont get all crazy worried and bent out of shape until you know whats going on.
My best guess is something within the cylinder head. It could be something as simple as a valve lash nut loose or TCT.
Could it be a spun bearing? its certainly possible. The spun bearings ive heard do not sound like your car did IMO.
This is the order i would follow:
Pull the valve cover. Check all lash adjustments. Visually look at the cam assembly see if you can see anything out of the ordinary. Check timing chain tensioner.
If no avail. drain oil in a clean pan. Use a flash light to detect any metal flaking. If it was a spun bearing most of the time you will be able to see lots of metal flakes.
If still no answers, do a leak down test on the motor.
Dont get all bent out of shape until you know what is wrong.
#33
Don't want to be a downer, but I know that sound. It's too loud to be TCT as that is what I thought as well. Built Inline Pro engine and look at what happened to mine after 2 days of driving.
Look at last picture
http://oilmeetsblood.blogspot.com/
My ring was still intact so I showed no signs of blowby or anything. I was hoping for the best until I pulled the head off.
Look at last picture
http://oilmeetsblood.blogspot.com/
My ring was still intact so I showed no signs of blowby or anything. I was hoping for the best until I pulled the head off.
#35
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As mase stated just do some investigating. Video not best of quality so itd be hard to judge off of. Also could be possible knock sensor may have gone bad if it got hit or w.e. so check that too.
#36
Definitely don't freak out. I had all sorts of issues a while back with my setup and I was assuming the worst. Once I got a professional opinion of what the problems were, the fix actions were simple.
Take it one step at a time and keep someone with more experience than you to double check behind you. You'll find the problem(s) in no time.
Take it one step at a time and keep someone with more experience than you to double check behind you. You'll find the problem(s) in no time.
#37
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Originally Posted by MaseEngineering,Feb 17 2010, 06:47 PM
This is the order i would follow:
Pull the valve cover. Check all lash adjustments. Visually look at the cam assembly see if you can see anything out of the ordinary. Check timing chain tensioner.
If no avail. drain oil in a clean pan. Use a flash light to detect any metal flaking. If it was a spun bearing most of the time you will be able to see lots of metal flakes.
If still no answers, do a leak down test on the motor.
Pull the valve cover. Check all lash adjustments. Visually look at the cam assembly see if you can see anything out of the ordinary. Check timing chain tensioner.
If no avail. drain oil in a clean pan. Use a flash light to detect any metal flaking. If it was a spun bearing most of the time you will be able to see lots of metal flakes.
If still no answers, do a leak down test on the motor.
Dont get all bent out of shape until you know what is wrong.
Thanks John_Z I'll keep you posted.
#39
I have an F20C with a similar problem. The ticking/knocking sounds like it's coming from the head. Once you start checking with a stethoscope you will hear that the noise is coming from the crank.
The F20C can resonate through the timing chain chamber making it appear that the noise is coming from the timing chain area or valve.
I think it's time to start checking.
Step 1. Remove valve cover and start looking for anything you can easily see like a valve, timing chain tensioner, timing chain, etc.
Step 2. Drain the oil through a filter (Womens nylons work great, Giggady) and look for any signs of a bad rod bearning. Or have the oil analyzed.
Step 3. Drop the pan and check the bearings.
Good luck.
The F20C can resonate through the timing chain chamber making it appear that the noise is coming from the timing chain area or valve.
I think it's time to start checking.
Step 1. Remove valve cover and start looking for anything you can easily see like a valve, timing chain tensioner, timing chain, etc.
Step 2. Drain the oil through a filter (Womens nylons work great, Giggady) and look for any signs of a bad rod bearning. Or have the oil analyzed.
Step 3. Drop the pan and check the bearings.
Good luck.
#40
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Originally Posted by chairmnofthboard,Feb 18 2010, 08:23 AM
I have an F20C with a similar problem. The ticking/knocking sounds like it's coming from the head. Once you start checking with a stethoscope you will hear that the noise is coming from the crank.
The F20C can resonate through the timing chain chamber making it appear that the noise is coming from the timing chain area or valve.
I think it's time to start checking.
Step 1. Remove valve cover and start looking for anything you can easily see like a valve, timing chain tensioner, timing chain, etc.
Step 2. Drain the oil through a filter (Womens nylons work great, Giggady) and look for any signs of a bad rod bearning. Or have the oil analyzed.
Step 3. Drop the pan and check the bearings.
Good luck.
The F20C can resonate through the timing chain chamber making it appear that the noise is coming from the timing chain area or valve.
I think it's time to start checking.
Step 1. Remove valve cover and start looking for anything you can easily see like a valve, timing chain tensioner, timing chain, etc.
Step 2. Drain the oil through a filter (Womens nylons work great, Giggady) and look for any signs of a bad rod bearning. Or have the oil analyzed.
Step 3. Drop the pan and check the bearings.
Good luck.