Spoolin

I'm using Amsoil Syn 10w40. I wish there was a 10w50 as I believe that would be the best, but there isnt. I wouldnt recommend running anything more than 10w40, per also recomendation from Darrly at UR. 15w50 and 20w50 is just too thick for cold startup on our tightly built engines. Now, if you have a loosly built boosted engine, 15w50 or 20w50 is what you will want to run.

boostedf22c

I've always ran 20w50 in all of my built turbo'd motors. Piston to cylinder wall tolerances are a bit looser, but bearing tolerances aren't.

Spoolin

^^Do you think it will be safe for me to go to 20w50 then? I've always heard to not run this thick of oil in the stock engine. So, the bearing clearances on the stock engine are the same as what your built engine is? If this is the case, 20w50 may be ok then. You dont think 20w50 will hurt the rings either if they are tighter than what your engine is?

boostedf22c

I don't really want to sway you one way or another. I mean, if you haven't noticed any issues with what you are running, don't change anything.

My motor, that had 10k miles on it, tons of dyno sessions, 1/4 mile passes, and street pulls look perfect when we tore it down. Bearing wise. Most of it's life was spent at 650+whp on pump gas, so it was pushed hard.

Whats weird is, I always ran 20w50 Royal Purple in my Subaru motor, but this motor seems to burn that stuff up rather quickly. Since that first oil change, I've ran Brad Penn 20w50. And I change it every 500-1000 miles tops. I have no reason to change brands, or weight at this point.

Spoolin

Thanks Carey. I guess I'll just stick with 10w40 since I havent had any problems.

X-RAYED

Well if you are really looking for a high 'hot' number, and keeping a low 'cold' number, you could try Castrol TWS Motorsport 10w60.

Spec_Ops2087

Well now I've made myself worry...


I had my passenger watch my oil pressure as I went up to redline and it dropped fairly linearly after 6k rpms . At 6k rpms, it went from 80psi to about 60psi and dropped from there on down to about 15psi at 9k rpms.

Now here's the kicker, it's dependent on throttle position *double confused*. If I take it up to 7k rpms and let off the throttle, it goes right back up to 80 ish psi.

I have a couple thoughts on this...

A) I can't believe its only at 15psi at 9k rpms, that makes 0 sense. The car runs perfectly fine and feels like vtec engages (hauls ass till 9k like it should).

B) My oil sensor could just be crapping out on me though I doubt it because it reads fine everywhere else.

C) I do have an inlinepro relocation block with 10an lines but from what I've read 8an lines only gives you 10psi back, not 60psi so it's not that.

D) I have my sensor mounted on the relocation block at the highest point. I think this is really my problem more then anything. I'm doing some major work on the engine this week so I've been toying with the idea of relocating my pressure sensor to either the lower portion of the relocation block (the stock oil filter location) or mount it where the stock pressure warning sensor is T'd into with my oil feed line.

E) I still have the stock oil warning light hooked up and it has never flashed during any dyno runs, WOT pulls, or anything. I've heard it activates when pressure drops below 20psi. At idle on a hot day MY sensor will say ~15psi yet the light won't flash which agains leads me to believe my sensor placement basically sucks.

F) I'm also going to switch to 40 weight oil to maintain some viscosity at high temps.


Any thoughts? I think I'm going to move my sensor around and see what happens. In the end I could just ignore it, but I put it there to be used so I want to get it reading correctly if I can ya know?

devs2k

^ I would try putting the T off the stock oil sender location and measure pressure from there.

You said you have your warning light hooked up; do you mean from your aftermarket oil pressure sensor or stock? I used to have a PLX oil pressure sensor that was wired to the stock dummy light. The PLX would trigger the light at 9psi or below. The stock light comes on at ~2-3 psi IIRC.

Also, you have the IP log right? Your VTEC is probably set higher than stock, at around 7000. Since VTEC is throttle dependent, Perhaps your oil pressure is dropping when VTEC kicks at high rpms, and appears to be fine when you are off the throttle since VTEC isn't engaged?

Spec_Ops2087

Yeah, I was thinking the optimal spot would be where the stock warning switch is -- hell, honda must have put it there for a reason right? Only down side is I would have to get some SS braided line since I've heard the T connection can't support a lot of weight.

I mean't the stock warning light. I read in a few threads that the stock warning light comes on give or take under 20psi. Just a thought, does oil have to be the working medium for the light? I could just hook it up to my air compressor and see how much pressure is required turn the light off.

Vtec is throttle dependent but I can hold 7k rpms without the required throttle position to engage vtec. Regardless if I'm WOT or just maintaining rpm, pressure drops but if I let off the throttle it'll go back to "normal." Plus, I'm fairly certain vtec is engaging; there's no way it could with "15psi" at redline.



I'm wondering, does anyone else have a pressure sending unit mounted at the top of the relocation block? If so, what are your readings?

X-RAYED

I connected my pressure sensor to the block, but mounted it 'away' from the T itself (mine is near shock tower).

Use this to connect to the block. It is a BSP to NPT thread adapter. IMPORTANT: the block is BSP. Many semi-force NPT threads into the block. I think that is playing with fire.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2269/

The use the best T that you can buy. Something line this;

3 AN: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2700/

4 AN: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2701/

If you need lines to remote mount the sensor, measure and buy something like these. Mine are Areoquip and the length is 'better' than offered at Summit, but this will give you an idea of what to look for:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Departm...es/?Ns=Rank|Asc

has worked great for me. I had a scare, and got a little lucky. I decided to re-due all oil connections with the best. I sleep better at night.