Oil Filter Relocation Failure and Headaches
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Oil Filter Relocation Failure and Headaches
After a second mishap with an oil filter relocation block, I have to forewarn everyone here. For the second time, I've witnessed my turbo S dump all of it's oil in a cloud of smoke due to the oil filter relocation block.
The part in question is the Canton Racing oil filter block. It is a well machined piece with a great finish, albeit poorly designed. It uses a standard off the shelf oil filter gasket seal between the block and the oil filter adapter. This is a square cross section seal. Unfortunately, with the block adapter bolted all the way down, it leaves a gap between the block and the adapter that exposes the seal. This is where the seal fails, unfortunately. If you look at your OEM Honda oil filter, it is a skirted o-ring that is completely shrouded when installed. The Canton piece doesn't have a properly designed o-ring gland. If you are using this part, I feel strongly, and from experience, that this is a time bomb waiting to happen. If you can't switch out to another manufacturer's part, I recommend changing out this "Ford-type" seal with each oil change. I've blown this seal twice under high RPM, undoubtedly due to high oil pressure, since oil pressure rises with each RPM. I tend to think that the high temps near the stock oil filter location may weaken the seal over time as well. But I haven't made it past 10,000 miles without one blowing.
Better yet, pickup a turbo manifold that doesn't require you to relocate the oil filter. From experience, it is very messy to have pressurized oil coat your entire under carriage and engine bay.
I hope this post keeps someone out there from experiencing the inconvenience, I have now been put through twice.
The part in question is the Canton Racing oil filter block. It is a well machined piece with a great finish, albeit poorly designed. It uses a standard off the shelf oil filter gasket seal between the block and the oil filter adapter. This is a square cross section seal. Unfortunately, with the block adapter bolted all the way down, it leaves a gap between the block and the adapter that exposes the seal. This is where the seal fails, unfortunately. If you look at your OEM Honda oil filter, it is a skirted o-ring that is completely shrouded when installed. The Canton piece doesn't have a properly designed o-ring gland. If you are using this part, I feel strongly, and from experience, that this is a time bomb waiting to happen. If you can't switch out to another manufacturer's part, I recommend changing out this "Ford-type" seal with each oil change. I've blown this seal twice under high RPM, undoubtedly due to high oil pressure, since oil pressure rises with each RPM. I tend to think that the high temps near the stock oil filter location may weaken the seal over time as well. But I haven't made it past 10,000 miles without one blowing.
Better yet, pickup a turbo manifold that doesn't require you to relocate the oil filter. From experience, it is very messy to have pressurized oil coat your entire under carriage and engine bay.
I hope this post keeps someone out there from experiencing the inconvenience, I have now been put through twice.
#4
How does this adapter compare with the Ultimate Racing and Lovefab ones? Thanks.
Tim
Tim
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I spoke with a buddy today who recommended the sandwich plate from Greddy or HKS. I'll check them out and post an evaluation.
I would hate to see someone else feel the pain of what I've experienced twice now, actually 3 times. The first time was my own fault, filter spun off because it was the wrong size thread. Make sure you have the filter that is made for your relocator.
I would hate to see someone else feel the pain of what I've experienced twice now, actually 3 times. The first time was my own fault, filter spun off because it was the wrong size thread. Make sure you have the filter that is made for your relocator.
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SIIK- Nothing a few bucks and cleaning couldn't fix. I pulled off the road right away in all instances. I thought I oil starved the motor the second time, but oddly enough, I think it might've just seated the rings because it doesn't burn any oil at all any more.
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Slow- take a close look when that adapter is installed on the block, see the gap? That's the problem, the travel stop should've been on the outside, not the inside.
Here's a pic of the first gasket that blew. It is weird because the gasket failed from inside diameter. So it really wasn't temp in my opinion. The seal didn't have a gland wall to seal against just open to atmosphere, so when the pressure built up there, the delta P got massive and the weakest link went, the seal. When I first saw it on the car, it was extruded out of the groove of the Canton adapter. There needs to be a wall there to retain the seal.
Here's a pic of the first gasket that blew. It is weird because the gasket failed from inside diameter. So it really wasn't temp in my opinion. The seal didn't have a gland wall to seal against just open to atmosphere, so when the pressure built up there, the delta P got massive and the weakest link went, the seal. When I first saw it on the car, it was extruded out of the groove of the Canton adapter. There needs to be a wall there to retain the seal.
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I have used this Canton part with a Greddy sandwich plate for over 70K miles with no issues. Sorry to hear you had such trouble with it.
Synapse, I may be mistaken, but the pic Slow posted has the stock oil warmer/cooler removed. Did you also do this?
Synapse, I may be mistaken, but the pic Slow posted has the stock oil warmer/cooler removed. Did you also do this?