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Newly FI'd, battery relocated, EPS no longer working

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Old 06-17-2013, 08:58 AM
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Default Newly FI'd, battery relocated, EPS no longer working

As title states, I just finished installing my turbo system last week. In doing so, I relocated the battery to the trunk, ran a 00-gauge (yes, double 0, it's what I had available) wire from the trunk up to the normal battery location where I joined it in a fused coupler. Split it off 2 ways, 1 going to the fuse box, the other going to the EPS subharness, same as the original battery cabling did. Fuse box was relocated to behind fender, power steering cables were extended.

Start the car up and first thing I notice is I'm getting an ABS, SRS, and EPS light. Check around with the multimeter and notice that the grounding on the passenger side of the engine bay is kind of off, so I run a ground cable from the batter to the engine back and ground it out. Great, everything drops on the multimeter. Hop in and check, the ABS and SRS lights are gone, EPS light is still there.

Double check around online and see what the normal wiring for the EPS is, and mine looks right, but I swap the 2 side connectors just to be certain. No dice. Swap them back, clear out the codes on the EPS via the pin 4-9 on the OBDII and the steering wheel. Start up the car, let the EPS light come back on, then read the code, error #33 "A problem with the current sensor"

Since then, I've been back and forth over the entire engine bay trying to see if I've missed a ground, if there is a bad connection, all with no luck. I checked continuity between the torque sensor cables (that were extended with the power steering extension) and I checked voltage on the power steering connector. Everything seems to be right.

Does anybody have any thoughts on what I might be missing, any idea what error #33 is generally implying, or anything. I've already got another EPS module on the way, but I'm still not convinced that there is anything wrong with mine given that before I tore down the car to turbo it, the EPS worked fine.
Old 06-17-2013, 09:12 AM
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How did you lengthen the torque sensor cables (solder/heatshrink or butt connectors)?
Old 06-17-2013, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by herecomesboost
How did you lengthen the torque sensor cables (solder/heatshrink or butt connectors)?
Torque sensor cables were extended via crimps. The steering gearbox cables were extended via solder and heatshrink. After extension, each cable was individually taped over the extension, and then the whole length of the cable was wrapped together with electrical tape.
Old 06-17-2013, 12:41 PM
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check the connector on ur esp box....u might have switched the plugs around that happen to me when i did mine
Old 06-17-2013, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Phill24
check the connector on ur esp box....u might have switched the plugs around that happen to me when i did mine
Yeah, already done. Stated in the original post that I thought they were correct, but swapped anyways and retested just to be 100% certain.
Old 06-17-2013, 01:30 PM
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solder everything. Go back and eliminate those crimps.
Old 06-17-2013, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GrandMasterKhan
solder everything. Go back and eliminate those crimps.
Unlikely to be the crimps. I already checked continuity as stated in the FSM, continuity checked out fine.
Old 06-18-2013, 04:27 AM
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I had trouble after I moved mine as well, and that was with no wires extended. I honestly can't remember what I did to fix it. Is the car jacked up in the air by any chance?
Old 06-18-2013, 05:12 AM
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I had to use a torch to solder the eps cables when I relocated it. Got lucky and didn't have the eps light come on though
Old 06-18-2013, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by illestrolla
I had trouble after I moved mine as well, and that was with no wires extended. I honestly can't remember what I did to fix it. Is the car jacked up in the air by any chance?
On the ground. I've taken it for a drive and everything, jacked it up, tested around with a multimeter, all with no luck.


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