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New Turbo and EMS owners

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Old 09-15-2007 | 09:29 PM
  #21  
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Be really nice to see a detailed reply to the previous 2 questions!!!!
Old 02-15-2008 | 12:19 PM
  #22  
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Anywhere recomended for tuning in south alabama?
Old 02-15-2008 | 02:01 PM
  #23  
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the new greddy kit technically doesn't need to be tuned correct?
Old 02-15-2008 | 02:10 PM
  #24  
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I dont know... i'd rather get it tuned... i'm going to add some stuff... i.e. boost controler, bov, test pipe, resonator delete...
Old 02-15-2008 | 03:59 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by honda_s2k_racing,Feb 15 2008, 03:10 PM
I dont know... i'd rather get it tuned... i'm going to add some stuff... i.e. boost controler, bov, test pipe, resonator delete...
well yeah if you're going to add a bunch of stuff, but I'm talking about just keeping it stock with just an exhaust added.
Old 02-16-2008 | 08:53 AM
  #26  
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True...

O well, hopefully someone answers your question, i'd like to know the answer too.
Old 03-28-2008 | 12:37 PM
  #27  
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does anyone know if AEM or hondata are coming out with a EMS for the 2007 AP2?
Old 11-28-2008 | 05:31 AM
  #28  
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Wow.

Everyone, as said in the OP, if you do any kind of turbo kit it's BEST to get it tuned. You can't have a plug-and-play kit that's as efficient as possible on every engine. Every individual car has it's minor differences and it's impossible to have an "off the shelf" product that's perfect for each one...

Now, the lower the power level it's less of a concern (assuming the company has a decent basemap), but when you're spending all that money on a bolt-on turbo setup, why cheap out and not get it tuned?

Tune it, have a save map, better mileage, better power, and more longevity.

To the person that asked how you change boost without a boost controller, there are a few options. You can get a different spring for your wastegate, buy a manual boost controller for CHEAP, or buy an electronic one.
Old 12-08-2008 | 08:57 AM
  #29  
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So a turbo=EMS=Impossible to pass emissions? Right?
Old 08-01-2009 | 03:42 PM
  #30  
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Would like responses to the two posts on the first page regarding safe boost/reliability

Also wondering about the post right above me.


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