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Need some advice! winter build

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Old 11-29-2012, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by liquidgsr
It also depends on how hard the tuner is willing to push. I know for a lot of tuners in my area they aren't willing to push very high and compromise reliability/longevity of the motor. The higher the boost the more heat and higher chance of detination. This is what I have gathered after talking to a few tuners on here as to why its hard to reach 500 or past 500 on pump.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by neoleooo
Originally Posted by Kitesurfer s2000' timestamp='1354226015' post='22180243
[quote name='gettin it' timestamp='1354212003' post='22179639']
Your right, Mase told me that also. Thats why im changed my setup some.

But mase still tuned phils gt3582 with the first mase kit to 602whp 22psi reving to 10.2 stock engine on pump so its possible ,how long it would have lasted who knows.
That's insane. Is that with stock HG or 3mm? 93 pump gas?
[/quote]
All stock on 93 pump ,so i supose its all in the tune.After talking to them both thats the reason i tuned to 18psi with the greddy emu ,but my tuner was not interested in the car ,and made the tune to safe.
Old 11-30-2012, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by liquidgsr
I am shooting for 500 on pump, but I doubt I will reach it. I have ID2200s and FB complete fuel system. This is includes dual hanger with dual 340s, -10an feed lines, -8 return, FB fuel rail, filter, and pressure regulator. It also depends on the size of your turbo. I have Borg Warner S262comp r. I have seen one person local who made 475 on 16psi, but from what I have read most tuners wont push that high on pump.
with the dual 340 is there any issues when it comes to tuning ? seeing your stable set up makes me rethink mine. in still new to boost and what it inquires.
Has there been any change to your head or block? mine will be apart so im considering anything that could help maintain he reliability.
Old 11-30-2012, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Kitesurfer s2000
Originally Posted by gettin it' timestamp='1354212003' post='22179639
Your right, Mase told me that also. Thats why im changed my setup some.

But mase still tuned phils gt3582 with the first mase kit to 602whp 22psi reving to 10.2 stock engine on pump so its possible ,how long it would have lasted who knows.
a set up like that with stock internals, i couldnt see lasting long, even with a proper tune.. 22 on a gt 3583 is insane
Old 11-30-2012, 06:23 PM
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Since im having my block and head apart. would you guys considering going all oem bearings and gaskets? Been debating on arp head stocks on stock hg and possibly springs and ti retainers but ive been told they have to be change every 15k (supertech). I will be running a aem whater meth to help reduce temp. and detonation. so possibly just stick with stock studs.
Old 11-30-2012, 09:35 PM
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Look into the full blown head studs and Ferrara beehive springs and titanium retainers. Although you don't need the head studs if you not pushing more than 700 from what I gather.

My motor is stock and I have not finished putting my car back together to tune yet. Trying to finish it this coming month but I keep running into problems.
Old 12-01-2012, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by liquidgsr
Look into the full blown head studs and Ferrara beehive springs and titanium retainers. Although you don't need the head studs if you not pushing more than 700 from what I gather.

My motor is stock and I have not finished putting my car back together to tune yet. Trying to finish it this coming month but I keep running into problems.
I havent put mine back together ethir neaser, life is busy lol. Id get studs if engine is apart since you cant reuse stock oem bolts, and im not sure about these motors but some other oem cost more then arp,i havent priced it, figured id get head studs when i take my head off.
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