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Here is a build thread for my S2k resto-mod. It is a 2000 AP1 I bought in 2007 with 74k. From 2007 to 2013 I put around 100k miles on it and loved every second. It has been through some accidents but I always got it back on the road. In 2014 I was rear-ended by an uninsured motorist and afterwards the engine began to lose compression on 2 cylinders. knowing I needed to completely rebuild the engine, I didn't have the time or money to get it back on the road. I put it in storage for 3 years. Finally bought my first house with a garage in 2016 and was able to begin the teardown. I have been working towards obtaining the time and money required to do my dream build on it and finally have reached that point.
Original color was red, I had Maaco paint it white (Huge mistake). I painted it matte black myself outside with better results than Maaco. My plan is to do a body kit and paint it Tamco Burplicious myself. I am toying with the idea of painting the rims, hood, hardtop and trunk pearl white.
My plan for the engine is to update the head with Supertech valves, springs and retainers. A SOS supercharger kit with AEM V2. Hopefully connected to an AP2 transmission leading to my Puddymod diff. I am fairly certain the cylinder rings are toast and my cause of low compression. I haven't decided if I should sleeve the block or try just doing the rings and pistons. The cylinder walls are in decent shape. I am located in Little Rock Arkansas and the amount of machines shops in the area is limited. I feel like sleeves are going to be the best option for reliability. I am doing it all myself so its a slow build but will try to update as I go. I have done mods on every car I have owned but this is my first complete build. My end goal is to reach at least 500 whp.
I appreciate anyone's opinions or suggestions. My build is based off of my years of research on other builds and peoples first hand experience with them.
Last edited by smallville160; 01-01-2023 at 10:20 AM.
OEM valves are best (if you can find them). Price aftermarket sodium filled valves and see the price difference. If you have access to E85, ID1300. I'd recommend dry sleeves since any competent machine shop can do those. You don't need a CNC for dry units. I would also get a current generation EMS: haltech elite, AEM infinity, Link, etc. They are much faster than the AEM v2. That AEM cannot protect your engine in real time.
I don't trust AP1 valve retainers and figured 97lb springs with titanium retainers would be best. My friends S2k dropped a valve right when he went into vtec. completely destroyed his engine. I have heard of it happening too often. I am fairly certain there a few Kum and Go's around with E85. Good call on the Infinity unit. I need to do more research on the injector size. 1300cc seems high but if that is what it will take. Im currently porting and polishing my intake manifold and head. I am concerned about the valve seating surface on my head. It has some markings from the carbon buildup from the old valves.
Here are a few photos of what happened when my friend dropped a valve. cylinder 4 cylinder 4 cylinder 2
You may already know this, but aftermarket Ti retainers are not install and forget it. I have supertech 97lb springs and Ti retainers, and the Ti does wear faster. I would check them every 10k mi. I'm considering going back to steel for the lower maintenance.
ap2 retainers dont fail like the early AP1's, its the recommended upgrade over here in the UK if you have a car that is 2005 or older.
AP1 retainers ('00 to '03) only fail IF the engine was mechanically over-revved due to driver error. Depending on the severity of the over-rev they can fail immediately or over time as the crack's widen. If this driver error does not happen then they won't fail and can last forever. Regardless, its a good idea to go for the AP2 retainers ('04 to '09) for added security. Those retainers can take higher over-rev conditions without cracking.
OP I'd recommend you do the SOS fuel pump wiring upgrade. Highly recommended by all of us super and turbocharged folks for good reason. If you can get an AEM V2 for a decent amount less than the Infinity then you should definitely grab it as it's very capable of your goal and a lot more. If the price is just about the same as the Infinity then go for the Infinity instead since VE tuning offers more. Both can run flex fuel well if that's what u want. Actually for 500 wheel you will be better off with E85 instead of really high octane race fuel which will cost more and probably be less available so if you can get E85 from the pumps then definitely include flex fuel in your build and have a tune for 93 octane and E85. 1000cc injectors will be adequate for 400 to 450 wheel max. 1300cc minimum for 500 wheel.
Got the engine and transmission out tonight. Gotta go pick up a engine stand tomorrow. I doubt I will find an AP2 transmission in my area so I am thinking of trying to rebuild my original. I read there was a fix for 2nd gear grind. Still looking for a local shop that can sleeve the block for me.
12-30-2022, 08:00 PM
Nate's Supercharged build thread
