Motor swap questions - clutch
#11
Originally Posted by DBXFX,Aug 27 2010, 12:18 PM
Most people run either a SOS kit or an ACT pressure plate with stock disc.
The ACT is good up to 380 ft lbs i believe and has a close to stock pedal feel.
General opinion is to avoid puck type clutches for street drivable. That said, I'll be getting an ACT.
The ACT is good up to 380 ft lbs i believe and has a close to stock pedal feel.
General opinion is to avoid puck type clutches for street drivable. That said, I'll be getting an ACT.
#12
240 is perfect compression. if he has 230 across the board, its in good shape in terms of valvs and rings. if it were 250 in some and 225 in others.... there would be something up.
238 is listed as "nominal" in the on demand 5 manual for that motor.
238 is listed as "nominal" in the on demand 5 manual for that motor.
#13
Originally Posted by Deception,Aug 28 2010, 04:15 PM
found a nice 05 F22 w/ 20k miles for a good price from a reputable seller on here...
only thing that I have a concern about id the compression #'s I was told.
On my original F20 motor & the 06 F22 which I just wrecked, the best compression #'s were 250psi during a warm test.
He told me this F22 has 230psi in each, but test was done on a cold engine that was not in a car. Would it be safe to assume that once the motor is in my car, a warm test would give 10psi higher making it +240psi in each?
thanks
only thing that I have a concern about id the compression #'s I was told.
On my original F20 motor & the 06 F22 which I just wrecked, the best compression #'s were 250psi during a warm test.
He told me this F22 has 230psi in each, but test was done on a cold engine that was not in a car. Would it be safe to assume that once the motor is in my car, a warm test would give 10psi higher making it +240psi in each?
thanks
#14
Originally Posted by Moddiction,Aug 28 2010, 04:31 PM
Yes it should go up a little bit for sure. Biggest concern is that they are all within 5 psi or so of each other.
#15
how did he do the test on a cold motor not in the car? i don't think you can get an accurate # by hand cranking the motor? unless he hooked up the starter to a power source and did it that way
#16
I'm still running stock clutch with my SoS. I don't really beat on the car a couple of quick launches here and there, but no high rpm clutch dumps. It's holding up still.
I'm at 10psi - in my sig is my Mustang results. On a Dynojet it was just about 400rwhp.
I'm at 10psi - in my sig is my Mustang results. On a Dynojet it was just about 400rwhp.
#17
Originally Posted by m R g S r,Aug 29 2010, 10:04 AM
how did he do the test on a cold motor not in the car? i don't think you can get an accurate # by hand cranking the motor? unless he hooked up the starter to a power source and did it that way
#18
Originally Posted by bagherra,Aug 29 2010, 11:53 AM
I'm still running stock clutch with my SoS. I don't really beat on the car a couple of quick launches here and there, but no high rpm clutch dumps. It's holding up still.
I'm at 10psi - in my sig is my Mustang results. On a Dynojet it was just about 400rwhp.
I'm at 10psi - in my sig is my Mustang results. On a Dynojet it was just about 400rwhp.
#19
Originally Posted by Moddiction,Aug 29 2010, 09:09 AM
Wow that's pretty crazy that your clutch is holding! Mines slips easily at 7 psi on my vortech kit.
#20
what about the competition clutch stage 2 full disc, its good for 80% over stock torque.. you think this will be good for s/c?
by my calculations that would make it good for 291 crank torque, which is about 232 wheel torque considering a 20% drive train loss
I like competition because they give you all the bearings in their kits
by my calculations that would make it good for 291 crank torque, which is about 232 wheel torque considering a 20% drive train loss
I like competition because they give you all the bearings in their kits