teamvalorracing

^the cooling system is still pressurized after shutdown from heat. theres no way around it. heat any liquid in a closed container and you will create pressure. when the pressure gets too high from too much heat(overheating), thats when your rad cap pops open and dumps it into the overflow canister.

and yes, with heat and air and an atmosphere for coolant to evaporate to, it will indeed evaporate. spill some on your block and see how long it takes to dry up.... ts pretty quick

Black Nugget

I don't know if I should thumbs up for excellent info or thumbs down for possibly bad news. Leaving work in a few mins so ill check level in radiator and mark the overflow tank.

teamvalorracing

if you are losing coolant at a slow rate like this, it will take a while to really "stand out", but like you said before, it will just keep dropping.

keep updating.

Black Nugget

Thanks to everyone so far for the help and input they've given me!

After 4 months of dealing with this issue, I'm open to ALL suggestions and tests to get it fixed.




Test #13 :
After three hours of sitting I removed the radiator cap. The coolant level at the top was less than 1/4" lower if any at all. Checked the overflow tank, a hair higher than the line I drew on it earlier.


Test #14 :
Crank the car at 80+% Throttle, slowly depressing more until about 4 seconds of continuous cranking and reaching 100% throttle. I then slowly let off to about 30% throttle and began pressing again. About 8 seconds of cranking, give or take a second either direction.


Test #15 :
Immediately after car fired I gave the throttle a quick blimp and jumped out of the car towards the rear. Was hoping (for diagnostic test) that I'd smell the sweet smell of coolant, then knowing what the issue is. Sadly, just as suspected it smelled of fuel.


Results :
No luck.

teamvalorracing

just drive and keep an eye on the coolant level. if after a week it hasnt dropped even more out of the radiator(dont worry about the overflow, it fluctuates with heat cycling as pressure builds), its probably not leaking into the cyl. just keep an eye on if the fluid keeps dropping in the rad itself.

it doesnt take much to foul out a combustion. it will only smoke you out and smell bad if its blown and leaking constantly and almost overpowering the fuel/air.

your problem, whatever it is, is minute, which is why it isnt readily detectable. so, its gonna take some time and repeated similar condition tests to catch on to that sucker. but dont give up, you'll get it at some point.

Black Nugget

Thanks! Again I really appreciate everyone's help with this. I've been dealing with this issue for months... and while it's not detrimental and my car still runs fine, it is very frustrating/annoying.

I'll keep an eye on the coolant levels in the radiator and update you guys as the week progresses.






On another note. Those of you with a Walbro 255 Fuel Pump and Fuel Pressure Gauge I have a question/favor to ask. If you have a minute, can you prime your fuel system, take a look at your fuel pressure gauge and give me a rough idea of how long it takes for your pressure to fully bleed off back to zero?

Thanks.

teamvalorracing

takes mine a while. ive never timed it exactly, but its longer than 10 mins for sure. i can come in from a drive, shut it down, open the hood, mess with some stuff, go inside, text some people, get the laptop up, check email, etc, etc, and the gauge still is holding over 30 when i got back out to do some work.

Black Nugget

Hmm. My fuel pressure drops like a rock. Actual mechanic friends (Chevrolet, Acura, BMW, Honda) have all told me that it's way too fast, but tuning shops say that it's normal.

When the car is running, whether it be on the dyno or just at idle it holds pressure just fine. However, I will shut my car off and in less than a minutes I'll have absolutely no fuel pressure. Within about 10 seconds I'm under 30psi.

Knowing my symptoms (excessive cranking) and the one solution (remove inj from cylinders), is it possible that this might be my issue?

Black Nugget

Also, spectacle a quick question pls. If it is IAT Comp Values, I don't understand... why would it start better and quicker after removing the injectors from the cylinders after each shut down?

JawKnee

[QUOTE=Black Nugget,Sep 22 2010, 07:29 PM]
On another note.