Made 529whp at 15 psi - More boost to come
#21
Finally replaced the blown inline pro head gasket this past weekend. More boosting coming on June 18th I did a few pulls and the temp. fluctuates between 181 and 190.
#22
just saw that you replaced the HG. inlinepro has frm friendly pistons. thing is i just saw it was 2700 to have them installed in the block. so pistons plus install is 2700. turns out you have to have the block rehoned to accept them. hoenstly, laskey will build your block for 3 grandish. sleeved, forged pistons/rods of your choice CR, assembled and shipped back to you. not too shabby
#23
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Apr 17 2010, 02:04 PM
Is it not a form of measurement? If I'm like anyone else, I like to make comparisons between auto manufactures as well as modified cars. Since Manufactures seem to have based their numbers from Dyno Jet's, we do the same. Yeah Dyno's are tuning tools, but the street can be also, so when looking at Dyno charts, I like to have some consistency dammit! Is that so Wrong
#24
I don't believe in re-torqing the head. If it's done correctly (install steps/sequences) the first time, that is not needed imo.
When is the last time you saw Honda send out a technician to your house after you bought the car to re-torque the head?
Or any vehicle from ANY manufacturer ever?
When is the last time you saw Honda send out a technician to your house after you bought the car to re-torque the head?
Or any vehicle from ANY manufacturer ever?
John
#26
Originally Posted by Spec_Ops2087,May 19 2010, 07:52 AM
Actually, they base their numbers from engine dynos. That's why the s2000 is rated at 240hp but we all know only dynos ~190-210hp to the wheels depending on what chasis dyno you use (dynojet, dynapack, etc)
Evan's has the same model dynapack and I made 410 whp @ 12psi. I think they can read pretty accurate.
I have also seen a stock S2k do 225whp on a Dyno Dynamics, it aint the Dyno, its the BS correction factor that some shops use.
#27
Originally Posted by ny1honda,Apr 17 2010, 05:28 PM
I checked the head bolts today and they don't need to be retorqued. Any recomendations for pistions and rods for AP2? I am not going to sleeve the block.
#28
Originally Posted by Deception,May 19 2010, 02:49 PM
just for a comparison on the dynos.. my car bone stock made 190-195whp on a Dynapack @ Wired in NJ. Pretty low for "bloated #'s"
Evan's has the same model dynapack and I made 410 whp @ 12psi. I think they can read pretty accurate.
I have also seen a stock S2k do 225whp on a Dyno Dynamics, it aint the Dyno, its the BS correction factor that some shops use.
Evan's has the same model dynapack and I made 410 whp @ 12psi. I think they can read pretty accurate.
I have also seen a stock S2k do 225whp on a Dyno Dynamics, it aint the Dyno, its the BS correction factor that some shops use.
#29
Registered User
I think that retorquing the head bolts is very important after the first few heat cycles. A lot of people with the 3mm headgasket have had problems due to this (myself included).
Retorque the headbolts and test it again.
And everyone knows that all dynos in different areas of the world are going to read differently. They're a tuning tool and obviously the guy is still making some great numbers, regardless of the dyno he's on. Dynapacks are better for tuning than dynojets anyway so get off his nuts already
GL with your car.
Retorque the headbolts and test it again.
And everyone knows that all dynos in different areas of the world are going to read differently. They're a tuning tool and obviously the guy is still making some great numbers, regardless of the dyno he's on. Dynapacks are better for tuning than dynojets anyway so get off his nuts already
GL with your car.
#30
Does the factory service manual say that the head bolts need to be retorqued? What material is the factory gasket made out of?
Retorquing the head bolts is something that is gasket specific as well as fastener specific. Lots of people have their opinions and ideas about retorquing but it's not always a good idea, and is often times completely redundant.
I've never retorqued a head gasket. I've also never had one fail.
I also do things that people say you should NEVER do, like remove factory head bolts and install ARP studs without lifting the head or replacing the head gasket, but I'm completely nuts too.
Retorquing the head bolts is something that is gasket specific as well as fastener specific. Lots of people have their opinions and ideas about retorquing but it's not always a good idea, and is often times completely redundant.
I've never retorqued a head gasket. I've also never had one fail.
I also do things that people say you should NEVER do, like remove factory head bolts and install ARP studs without lifting the head or replacing the head gasket, but I'm completely nuts too.
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