siadam

I don't believe in re-torqing the head. If it's done correctly (install steps/sequences) the first time, that is not needed imo.

When is the last time you saw Honda send out a technician to your house after you bought the car to re-torque the head?

Or any vehicle from ANY manufacturer ever?

devs2k

Dynapack or bust!

ya@inlinepro

Dyno's mean nothing.

Its a tuning tool.

:thumup: Jeff

devs2k

Most fail to understand that.

civicej8

had a friend that blew a headgasket on the dyno because of coolant issues. but he just replaced his headgasket and his run ran fine after. maybe the people who milled your head is at fault. good luck, but looks like you might have to take the head off again and get it milled.

Spoolin

[QUOTE=siadam,Apr 16 2010, 08:00 AM] I don't believe in re-torqing the head.

Tech7427

me either.. i recently checked the studs after my coolant happening and every single stud was good and tight, if the studs stretched, the nuts would not be tight.. i have never once retorqued a head after heat cycling it..and i have used arp studs on many engines..

dibi

Wow, those are impressive numbers at 15psi!!! If i were you i would be hoping its only the HG that is causing the leaking and nothing else. A HG is relitively easy to replace, i did mine this winter with some help from the advice here and a friend, and i have minimal wrenching skills. Good luck with the car.

Do you have a copy of the dyno plot you can post up for us to see?

s2000Junky

Is it not a form of measurement? If I'm like anyone else, I like to make comparisons between auto manufactures as well as modified cars. Since Manufactures seem to have based their numbers from Dyno Jet's, we do the same. Yeah Dyno's are tuning tools, but the street can be also, so when looking at Dyno charts, I like to have some consistency dammit! Is that so Wrong

ny1honda

I checked the head bolts today and they don't need to be retorqued. Any recomendations for pistions and rods for AP2? I am not going to sleeve the block.