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mac boost solenoid question ?

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Old 10-01-2012, 10:23 AM
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The actual mac is for sure hotter than 120degrees , I'm not sure about the area around it, I should check that,
Old 10-01-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by S2KCHRIS305
Im not sure how its configured my tuner did all the configuration, its wired to my aem version 2 and to power under the dash, where it turns on with ignition, when I first wired it, I wired it straight to the battery for to have it installed quick to tune my car that day, I left it to the battery for about 3 months before I decided to change the power source to under the dash because it was killing my battery, maybe I fried it during that time n its not working right. I still think its a heat issue though ,
It's never connected straight to the battery, as that would always keep the solenoid ON. The power should come from the AEM which will then modulate power going out to the solenoid in both Frequency & Duty cycle.
Old 10-01-2012, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 99SH
Originally Posted by S2KCHRIS305' timestamp='1349113154' post='22050057
Im not sure how its configured my tuner did all the configuration, its wired to my aem version 2 and to power under the dash, where it turns on with ignition, when I first wired it, I wired it straight to the battery for to have it installed quick to tune my car that day, I left it to the battery for about 3 months before I decided to change the power source to under the dash because it was killing my battery, maybe I fried it during that time n its not working right. I still think its a heat issue though ,
It's never connected straight to the battery, as that would always keep the solenoid ON. The power should come from the AEM which will then modulate power going out to the solenoid in both Frequency & Duty cycle.

Two leads. One is 12v ignition the other is aem d plug. Aem pulls ground to modulate.
Old 10-01-2012, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by camuman
Two leads. One is 12v ignition the other is aem d plug. Aem pulls ground to modulate.
If that's the case, I would break the ground connection and manually ground it when the MAC gets hot. You would at least be able to confirm (audibly & by feel) whether the MAC is indeed non-operational when hot.
Old 10-01-2012, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 99SH
Originally Posted by camuman' timestamp='1349118606' post='22050331
Two leads. One is 12v ignition the other is aem d plug. Aem pulls ground to modulate.
If that's the case, I would break the ground connection and manually ground it when the MAC gets hot. You would at least be able to confirm (audibly & by feel) whether the MAC is indeed non-operational when hot.
but it only turns on when you want to raise boost. at idle or car off it normally wont do anything. you can try messing with the boost control table to make it kick on at idle though. then that could possibly test it.
Old 10-01-2012, 12:38 PM
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My MAC got hot just the way you describe it when I had it wired up incorrectly. Double check that you have it running to the correct pin on the D connector. If your wiring is correct, I'd say your solenoid is just bad and is having some sort of short.
Old 10-01-2012, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by camuman
Originally Posted by 99SH' timestamp='1349119790' post='22050394
[quote name='camuman' timestamp='1349118606' post='22050331']
Two leads. One is 12v ignition the other is aem d plug. Aem pulls ground to modulate.
If that's the case, I would break the ground connection and manually ground it when the MAC gets hot. You would at least be able to confirm (audibly & by feel) whether the MAC is indeed non-operational when hot.
but it only turns on when you want to raise boost. at idle or car off it normally wont do anything. you can try messing with the boost control table to make it kick on at idle though. then that could possibly test it.
[/quote]

If the AEM controls actuation of the solenoid by providing a path to ground, there will always be 12V at the input. Breaking open the return side and manually tying it to ground would turn on the solenoid. The AEM in this case would merely be providing a 12V input without being able to PWM the ground
Old 10-01-2012, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by sata3000


I have a manual boost controller right now bc my mac took a poop.. but this is where mine was.. I would only hit low boost when my mac went bad...


:edit: can you all see my pic? bc i can't
humm... maybe i should shield my solenoid a bit better. I have the same p-tuning kit with the heat shield on but i mounted mine on the inner battery tie. Havnt had any issues yet but dont want to run into issues on long trip or once the 90-100 degree days roll back around in summer.
Old 10-01-2012, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 99SH
Originally Posted by camuman' timestamp='1349123851' post='22050610
[quote name='99SH' timestamp='1349119790' post='22050394']
[quote name='camuman' timestamp='1349118606' post='22050331']
Two leads. One is 12v ignition the other is aem d plug. Aem pulls ground to modulate.
If that's the case, I would break the ground connection and manually ground it when the MAC gets hot. You would at least be able to confirm (audibly & by feel) whether the MAC is indeed non-operational when hot.
but it only turns on when you want to raise boost. at idle or car off it normally wont do anything. you can try messing with the boost control table to make it kick on at idle though. then that could possibly test it.
[/quote]

If the AEM controls actuation of the solenoid by providing a path to ground, there will always be 12V at the input. Breaking open the return side and manually tying it to ground would turn on the solenoid. The AEM in this case would merely be providing a 12V input without being able to PWM the ground
[/quote]


Ur prolly right. Give it a try. Can't hurt it.
Old 10-01-2012, 03:04 PM
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if you give the MAC power and manually ground it, you should here a clicking sound, thats how you know its working, next time i see its not working and its burning hot imma pull over and try that and see what happens,


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