EK9MAX

IS it as simple as putting the head on the "dowel pins" then putting the ARP studs in finger tight, then torquing the nuts on @ 80 ft/lbs?

Or should i put the studs in first then put the head on??

In sequence of course.....

m R g S r

Hand tighten with allen keys into the block first with the head off. Make sure there is no oil/coolant in the holes where each stud does. Use the lube that comes with the head studs. And I always torque them in 3-4 steps, and I always go a little higher than ARP recommends.

AusS2000

You can't install the studs in the block and then drop the head on if the engine is still in the car.

jwa4378

In addition to in sequence, make sure you go over them a SECOND TIME at each step increment.

I.E. - Torque them in sequence to 20#, then go over them ALL again at 20# (As they get torqued down in sequence, some will loosed a bit from their original setting, and you might get as much as another 1/4 turn on the same setting). Once they are ALL clicking the torque wrench at 20#, with no additional rotating, step up another 20#.

Yes you can. I have done it. Just needs a bit of massaging. The tab on the rear side of the head, the one that holds one of the wiring harnesses, can be bent out of the way with some plyers, and bent back after the head is installed.

Of you cane just drop the subframe an inch or so... Like when doing a clutch.

John

Venomous S

I have done it as well w/ the engine in the car.
Just gotta take the rear bracket off that holds the negative battery cable and make damn sure that you dont scuff up the head surface when you drop the head on.