Inline Pro 3mm Headgasket instal
04-13-2011, 12:58 AM
#24
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Ok stock headgasket it is.
Anyone want my Inline pro 3mm? Shipping to US will be more than the gasket though.lol
Spoke to a guy running 350wkw on stock compression - same as ours 11:1 on his civic type r and he is having no issues and he does alot of drag and track events. He said if its tuned properly and you stick with same fuel you tune with you will be fine.
Damn I glad I checked with you guys before I had that gasket installed. Cant believe they blow that easily!
Anyone want my Inline pro 3mm? Shipping to US will be more than the gasket though.lol
Spoke to a guy running 350wkw on stock compression - same as ours 11:1 on his civic type r and he is having no issues and he does alot of drag and track events. He said if its tuned properly and you stick with same fuel you tune with you will be fine.
Damn I glad I checked with you guys before I had that gasket installed. Cant believe they blow that easily!
04-13-2011, 08:45 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by hondaguys2k' timestamp='1302618719' post='20457027
leave the stock gasket and bolts. ive asked the same question and ended up returning both the head gasket and studs. from what ive been told the gaskets blow frequently and the OEM studs have more clamping force than the ARP studs, and be re-used 
OEM are head bolts not studs. And never re use head bolts. NEVER. They are torque to yield and once they are torqued that is it. They stretch and lose their clamping ability if you try to re use them. I had a friend that tried to re use them and had all kinds of problems and finally he went with ARP studs.
I kinda doubt that OEM head bolts have more clamping force than ARP studs.
To the OP don't get a thick head gasket or head gasket spacer. I've seen multiple ones fail, not just the Inline Pro one either.
now that im going boost with my s2k ive been told by numerous ppl that stock BOLTS and headgasket will be a better seal due to the better clamping force. 3mm gaskets that have blown within the first few thousand miles probably had the ARP studs as well. not saying that i know the correlation of the two will cause it to blow easier, but, i wonder? a good number of OEM parts on the s2k are just as good as aftermarket from my experience.
04-13-2011, 09:19 AM
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Then you are lucky that nothing has happened. After head bolts are torqued once then removed they are useless. My friend is a perfectionist and definently torqued the head bolts correctly.
He didn't have any problems with the ARP studs when he went back to an OEM gasket.
Keep the OEM head gasket and get ARP studs or at least get new head bolts.
He didn't have any problems with the ARP studs when he went back to an OEM gasket.
Keep the OEM head gasket and get ARP studs or at least get new head bolts.
04-14-2011, 03:46 AM
#28
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Then you are lucky that nothing has happened. After head bolts are torqued once then removed they are useless. My friend is a perfectionist and definently torqued the head bolts correctly.
He didn't have any problems with the ARP studs when he went back to an OEM gasket.
Keep the OEM head gasket and get ARP studs or at least get new head bolts.
He didn't have any problems with the ARP studs when he went back to an OEM gasket.
Keep the OEM head gasket and get ARP studs or at least get new head bolts.
04-14-2011, 04:14 AM
#29
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I had a 3mm until I sold the car and it did not blow. Inline runs them all the time with no problems. To me I think they have a limit of around 500 hp or 20psi and a life of about 20k. They blow because people try to push them tooo much, push too much psi or just put them in wrong. With that said if your happy with the power of your car at around 12 psi then your gonna be OK with the stock HG. Also the tuning has been much better in the recent years which is another reason to stay stock HG for you power goal. To me the 3mm HG is a tool that lets a less efficent log type set up go from 350 to 450 HP.