Idle timing and general timing questions
#1
Idle timing and general timing questions
I figure there are more people adjusting ems settings in here, so I will ask here.
As far as timing maps go, aem is a bit different than the hondata map. I don't know which more accurately represents factory timing, but I've been reading/leaning toward the hondata maps. Aem maps seem to be a bit retarded.
The biggest difference is the idle timing. Aem maps keep the timing around 4-8*, where hondata's map keep idle timing around 20-25*.
What is everyone running as far as idle timing? Right now I am running the aem's timing (aem v2) and it just seems pretty low. I have checked and synced timing with the crank pulley at ~5* (per the oem service manual, idle timing should be 5* +/- 2 BTDC).
I understand these are "basemaps", but the difference between basemaps is quite different (mainly at idle) and I was just seeing if anyone had some good info on this.
Thanks in advance.
As far as timing maps go, aem is a bit different than the hondata map. I don't know which more accurately represents factory timing, but I've been reading/leaning toward the hondata maps. Aem maps seem to be a bit retarded.
The biggest difference is the idle timing. Aem maps keep the timing around 4-8*, where hondata's map keep idle timing around 20-25*.
What is everyone running as far as idle timing? Right now I am running the aem's timing (aem v2) and it just seems pretty low. I have checked and synced timing with the crank pulley at ~5* (per the oem service manual, idle timing should be 5* +/- 2 BTDC).
I understand these are "basemaps", but the difference between basemaps is quite different (mainly at idle) and I was just seeing if anyone had some good info on this.
Thanks in advance.
#3
Put a timing light on it. When its 5degrees on the crank, it should be 5 degrees in the software. You can sync the timing in AEM. Set it to 20 degrees in the software and it should read 20 on the crank. Factory is at 5 degrees on the timing light at idle for smog purposes.
#5
I realize that 5* on the crank should match 5* on the software. And I already have it matched/synced as I said in the earlier post.
This is my current map
And this is what I'm going to try when I get home from work.
I did try timing at idle around 20* last night, and it seemed to idle a little smoother. But when turning the ac/fans on, the motor will drop a decent amount of rpm, and will sometimes get close to stalling.
This is my current map
And this is what I'm going to try when I get home from work.
I did try timing at idle around 20* last night, and it seemed to idle a little smoother. But when turning the ac/fans on, the motor will drop a decent amount of rpm, and will sometimes get close to stalling.
#6
I also have the iac valve duty cycle to be already on the plus side (2-3%), as well as added timing (~10-12*) on the ignition / idle adjustment. I'm sure it will just take some trial and error on my part.
#7
Registered User
I realize that 5* on the crank should match 5* on the software. And I already have it matched/synced as I said in the earlier post.
This is my current map
And this is what I'm going to try when I get home from work.
I did try timing at idle around 20* last night, and it seemed to idle a little smoother. But when turning the ac/fans on, the motor will drop a decent amount of rpm, and will sometimes get close to stalling.
This is my current map
And this is what I'm going to try when I get home from work.
I did try timing at idle around 20* last night, and it seemed to idle a little smoother. But when turning the ac/fans on, the motor will drop a decent amount of rpm, and will sometimes get close to stalling.
You'll need to adjust the battery compensation table. I forget where it was located.
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#8
Ran 5 degrees at idle for about a year with no issues. Was getting too much cabin rattle from the vibration. Now I'm at 20 degrees at idle and 1100 rpm. A lot less cabin rattle and when the spal fan kicks in no more ignition kills. I'm not too worry about meeting the ultra low emission values.
#9
I have the battery offset tables set to the default settings for my injectors (id1000). I have not actually disconnected the alternator to tune the offset tae though. I will have to log the battery voltage to see if that is the actual issue.
#10
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Location: Tulsa,OK
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Thread from an Evo forum http://forums.evolutionm.net/aem-ems...e-aem-ecu.html
This is how I have mine setup. Before my car would try to stall sometimes when the fans kicked on. This fixed it 100%
This is how I have mine setup. Before my car would try to stall sometimes when the fans kicked on. This fixed it 100%