icemans2k02

Here is my problem, you start car with clutch pressed in, as soon as you release it the car dies but the car is still in neutral no gear.. it seems to do it when there is an extreme temperature change. Also once the car starts sometimes it feels sluggish and you have to give gas hard to get it going, once on the road it starts to buck at certain rpms and sounds like there is loss of power at some points. I live in Louisiana and in the morning it is cool car runs fine. when i leave in the afternoon the temperature has changed enough to where it is significantly hotter. the car tends to act up more.. i am trying to give all the variables to the equation. anywho took it to the dealership as they still honor my warranty to an extent and a they through out theories. "a part of the clutch could be broken off and when you clutch out since the transmission still spins freely it might be catching something causing it to die" basically they think the clutch is going out.. the clutch has less then 10k miles on it.. so i am puzzled, i checked the plugs night before, thought it might be the fuel pump, friend had a fuel pressure gauge, everything tested fine, pulled plugs looked good, not vacuum hose leaks and no CEL!! i am thinking it might be as simple as a map, but did not occur to me once i got home and puzzled myself for a little bit.

sorry for the long novel, i was just trying to be very descriptive

Slows2k

The car stalls while in nuetral right after releasing the clutch?

icemans2k02

yep, and does this sometimes, this might not even be a factor, honda called me this morning and said the car is running fine. i would think if it was the clutch it would be doing it all the time

CKit

There have been several theories:

MAP whack
ECU "learning"
O2 sensor
Plugs

Pull your ECU backup fuse for 30 seconds and see if it goes away.
Check your A/F ratio.

icemans2k02

update:

Honda has checked everything from fuel pressure to clutch and transmission those check fine. They have narrowed it down to being something electronic. Either the map sensor or the throttle body sensor.

xviper

I don't know how "cool" it is where you are or what you've got in the tranny for fluid. I would ..........................
1. Release the clutch SLOWLY during those times when it is likely to stall. I get this in the very cold, so I let out the clutch slowly and listen to the engine. If it begins to decrease in rpm, I push the clutch back down a bit or counter it with a bit of throttle. Your engine may be set up in such a way or in a particular state of tune that it is more suseptible to the added load of the tranny, even spinning in neutral.
2. Consider changing the tranny fluid to something of known recommendation. Yours may be too thick.

I would also "freshen up" the MAP sensor wiring harness by unclipping it and putting it back on firmly and get the new securing system for it (zip tie).

icemans2k02

well honda seems to think it is the map clamp now that is causing issues. on a standard s2000 there are three wires on the map: one gets voltage, one does not, then there is also a ground.. the one that does not normally get voltage is getting voltage even when at idle. there assuming the box is bad and that this is the problem. only thing is when you call vortech they are not sure if the map sensor should or should not get voltage when at idle

xviper

HOLD ON! You have a "map clamp"? You're supercharged? It would be nice if you gave ALL the details when asking a question. Having a supercharger makes a HUGE difference when diagnosing anything on your engine.

icemans2k02

thought you would have checked the sig or the picture in my sig??

xviper

Sorry, I don't look at sigs too closely and many people have sigs turned off. As a question asker, you can't put the onus upon readers to scan your sig. It is up to you to put all pertinent details in your first post.
My first response is still valid, but only partially so. You've got too many other things going on that may cause your problem.