S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

I keep losing bolts like an 82 Buick help!

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Old 10-23-2008, 04:42 PM
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i have a pfab manifold and had mine all back out in 2 days....bleh
Old 10-23-2008, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by snakeeater,Oct 23 2008, 07:38 AM
But you still have the turbine to manifold connection to deal with - IMO the most problematic connection. Someone needs to try a steel O-ring and copper gasket there. That might prevent small exhaust leaks from that connection due to loose nuts and bolts/studs. Safety-wiring, mechanical locking fasteners, spot-welding nuts all are useful but a PITA here. But add an o-ring and copper gasket with one of these locking methods and it should hold forever.

V-band wastegate and DP connections are a life-saver. Are you saying Tial has a turbine housing option with V-band connection (rather than T3/T4 flange) for turbine to manifold connection, or are you just referring to the wastegate? If the former, are any of the manifold makers offering this option yet?
yes tial makes a v band exhaust housing im pretty sure its only available for the 35r though...

and i always use lock washers and loctite on my stuff and i have never had a problem.
Old 10-24-2008, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 2gr84u,Oct 23 2008, 07:30 PM
interesting this thread should arrise, ive just spent the day pulling the manifold and turbo off the car to switch the bolts for studs because of the same issue occuring. A question for those with the inlinepro mani are you guys able to put a bolt/stud in all 4 corners? I have one hole that i cant get anything to work because of the positioning of the turbo, is this a common problem or is this unique to me, also would just 3 well tightend nuts work?
There is one tight spot that you can't get to w/ the turbo/manifold inside the car.

The way to do it right is to pull the turbo/manifold out and then tighten all 4 bolts.
And this way you get more leverage/torque when tightening down all the bolts.
Would not suggest just using just 3, but thats' me.

I used studs and bolts and still had the same issue with bolts/studs loosening.
I went to stage 8 and problem solved.
Old 10-24-2008, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Venomous S,Oct 24 2008, 07:58 AM
There is one tight spot that you can't get to w/ the turbo/manifold inside the car.

The way to do it right is to pull the turbo/manifold out and then tighten all 4 bolts.
And this way you get more leverage/torque when tightening down all the bolts.
Would not suggest just using just 3, but thats' me.

I used studs and bolts and still had the same issue with bolts/studs loosening.
I went to stage 8 and problem solved.
I have it all out of the car now, but there is no way to fit the bolt or stud into the location and get a nut on it. The only way would be clock the turbine enough to move the oil drain flange out of the way, which will be interesting so thoes bolts are gonna be a pain in the ass
Old 10-24-2008, 11:49 AM
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what about manifold to head issues?
Old 10-25-2008, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 2gr84u,Oct 24 2008, 05:05 AM
I have it all out of the car now, but there is no way to fit the bolt or stud into the location and get a nut on it. The only way would be clock the turbine enough to move the oil drain flange out of the way, which will be interesting so thoes bolts are gonna be a pain in the ass
Hard to be an internet critique without actually seeing the problem but can you install the bolt/stud that your having a problem with first and then install the other fasteners? See if you can tighten the bolt/stud with no clearance first keeping the head/nut as up against the flange the entire time (I'm assuming you have enough room for the the head of a bolt/nut) then install the other 3 bolts ones this one is installed and torque them all after.

BTW this thread is very informative and has many solutions, seems like we are all having the same problem and have either used one of the listed solutions or are about to

Any votes on stickying?
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