DrewKC

I noticed my radiator fans are on all the time after I drive it around for a short time maybe 20 minutes of regular driving. My temp guage does not work so I thought maybe there was air in the lines but nope. I took it to inline pro and they told me the thermostat was bad, so I got a new one when I took the old one out and did the hot water test and the thermostat opened fine The reason inline said the thermostat was bad was because the lower main radiator hose was not hot compared to the top one. I took the water pump off and it was in mint shape there is no block in the the coolant system because water runs right through. What could it be im stumped, could it not be running hot at all I mean after all my temp guage doesnt work because of the AEM EMS. I am in the process of getting a temp guage now but does anybody know why my fans still running when the key is turned over but the engine is not on only after a short time of driving it, the fans are not running wrong because when the motor first starts up the fans don't come on only when I have been driving it not even hard, do the fans come on when the key is turned but the motors not on. The lower radiator hose does not warm up and get hot like the higher one near the turbo kit piping thats the only symptom i HAVE. Does anybody have any suggestions sorry for the long post I just don't want my new motor to pop like my old one

timg

Get a modifry ECT driver before you blow your motor again. Trust me, I learned the hard way.

Tim

jefferyg32

Air pocket, try bleeding the system with a bleeder funnel and make sure the funnel is taller than the nipple on the heater coolant line running on the back firewall!

JDMallmotorAP1

i had overheating problems as well, but it was sloved by checking the reservoir tank and my plastic 90 degree tube was cracked thats goes to the radiator. replaced it with a civic reservoir tank cap and checked the 90 degree tube thing that wasnt cracked then tried it out and has no problems overheatin again. glad it was an easy fix. Try to check to see that yours isnt.

TRBOKEV

Jack the front of the car up when bleeding the system and then follow the helms manual for bleeding. ALso you can monitor your water temp on your AEM via a laptop like I do.

AusS2000

I've been through a similar situation and when all of the above failed to fix the issue I bit the bullet and did the head gasket. Sure enough it was mildly blown and under boost gases were escaping into the cooling system, causing an airlock and resulting in overheating.

I replaced the head gasket and all was fine.. for a while. It then started happening again. Everyone had a theory: 3mm head gaskets are crap! ARP studs are crap! Etc, etc. Turned out my tuning was all wrong and the ignition was being advanced with heat rather than retarded. A second head gasket and a day on the dyno and all is well.

BUT, I now watch my temperature like a hawk. I have an AEM Serial Gauge and Modifry ECT and am extremely paranoid. Car got a good work out over the weekend (about 400Km) and behaved itself nicely.

josserman

im having overheating issues now also. so far I've replaces my cap with a mugen cap. I plan on installing a mugen tstat and new water pump hopefully this week. I did hear a noise coming from my water pump so to confirm I took my belt off and spun the wheel and it does seem to not spin as freely as I think it should, and I do hear noise like the bearing needs to be replaced.

What I notice is that some nights the coolant stays in the overflow, when normally when it cools down it will flow back into the system. I did have a mishimoto cap for my mishimoto rad which has been known to have issues, so I thought that may have caused this.

BTW I don't think it's the head gasket cause I typically get hot air, and I'm able to do many consecutive hard pulls without an issue. The over heating typically happens within 10 mins of taking the car out for the first time after it has sit. It seems the harder I drive the car the better the temps stay in check actually.

Spoolin

Warm the car up to operating temperature and then let the car cool completely over night and go out and pull the radiator cap the next day. If the system has pressure and a little coolant spits out, you have a blown HG.

josserman

the system usually has a little pressure, but I don't see any coolant spill out.

Spec_Ops2087

Can always do a leak down test...not very hard to do