head setup for 600 whp
03-27-2009, 10:22 AM
#31
I am having my head finished today. I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the valves and seats. My stock valves did not hold up well to 10PSI with Greddy kit so I really don't see that they would under even heavier loads.
My guides were in perfect shape, so I replaced the valves with Ferrea's stock sized valves that are dished. Then had the machine shop replace the seats and cut a 3 angle valve job, replaced the springs and retainers for good measure, had the head fully ported and lightly decked, intake gasket match, IP log full gasket match all for $1500 including the parts. So if you are spending $10K for the kit and other pieces what is another 10-15%. I figured I would literally go for broke on this project.
My guides were in perfect shape, so I replaced the valves with Ferrea's stock sized valves that are dished. Then had the machine shop replace the seats and cut a 3 angle valve job, replaced the springs and retainers for good measure, had the head fully ported and lightly decked, intake gasket match, IP log full gasket match all for $1500 including the parts. So if you are spending $10K for the kit and other pieces what is another 10-15%. I figured I would literally go for broke on this project.
03-27-2009, 12:28 PM
#32
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by btstone84,Mar 27 2009, 10:03 AM
the cams can hold the power longer. the reason to go to 10k is not to make more power. its to extend your power ban
03-27-2009, 12:55 PM
#33
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i actually shift at mine at 9500 becasue i feel its faster there too, but my stroker kit is at the house and i will run that to 10k. its all about have large enough hot side turbo, DP, and exhaust so you can make and hold the top end power
03-27-2009, 04:50 PM
#34
Originally Posted by btstone84,Mar 27 2009, 12:55 PM
i actually shift at mine at 9500 becasue i feel its faster there too, but my stroker kit is at the house and i will run that to 10k. its all about have large enough hot side turbo, DP, and exhaust so you can make and hold the top end power
Here is an example with of a system that chokes on the top end. Where the lines overlap is wehre you want to shift.
03-27-2009, 07:08 PM
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
So TI valves
dual valve springs probably Ti
Ti retainers
and a set of valve seals. Throw it to a decent Honda recommended machine shop and I should be good to go?
03-27-2009, 07:19 PM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by dsddcd,Mar 27 2009, 04:50 PM
It is real easy to mathematically determine where the optimum shift point is. Just take you torque curve divide it by your gearing to get the engine output with losses. Then create a chart with speed of the car vs rpm and plot the power in each gear.
Here is an example with of a system that chokes on the top end. Where the lines overlap is wehre you want to shift.
Here is an example with of a system that chokes on the top end. Where the lines overlap is wehre you want to shift.
03-29-2009, 07:07 PM
#39
Originally Posted by Sideways,Mar 27 2009, 08:11 PM
That is basically it with the S2000. Notice how the thrust remains better all the way to 9500 rpm. No short shifting to get more thrust. 
Horsepower increases all the way as well.
The S2000 is a race car and the thrust profile is that of a race car and not a grocery getter. 
Horsepower increases all the way as well.
The S2000 is a race car and the thrust profile is that of a race car and not a grocery getter. Nice to see I am not the only nerd here
03-29-2009, 07:08 PM
#40
Originally Posted by ChefJ,Mar 27 2009, 07:12 PM
Should I also upgrade valve guides? I noticed ferrea sells a set for around 75 bucks.