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Greddy Turbo (can't hold boost)

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Old 04-08-2009, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MugenRioS2k,Apr 8 2009, 05:38 AM
Even though I have the latest every once in a while I still see the ULTs logs show some erroneous ignition timing values.


The OBD2 scanner/data logger still indicates the correct timing is being pulled per psi based on my ULT timing maps.

The ULT just pukes on its self every once in a while when it comes to data logging the timing.


NGK2668's ( resistor plugs)

likewise.

The ULT does not correctly calculate TPS opening rate.
I have never seen the TPS ramp rate go over 3% despite slamming the throttle to the floor.
I had him install BKR8EIX so it is not the plugs. I have also verified that the Ultimate is pulling timing but it still makes me nervous.

I did verify that I have seen the tip-in go as high as 20-25% but never higher??

The boost taper issue is still bothersome though and I have not figured out how to test the controller.

Maybe it's time to try and drive the solinoid with the Emanage?????
Old 04-08-2009, 06:02 AM
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did you do what I suggested taking off the controller and seeing if it holds the 7PSI from the WG spring?

Just take of the Boost controller and see what it does, if it holds boost, you know its the AEM Boost controller
Old 04-08-2009, 09:26 AM
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It's the turbo. It's too small to hold peak boost all the way to redline...
Old 04-08-2009, 09:32 AM
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I can hold 12psi to redline with the Profec B, however the lower EGT due to METH may help me?
Old 04-08-2009, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeyBalls,Apr 8 2009, 06:02 AM
did you do what I suggested taking off the controller and seeing if it holds the 7PSI from the WG spring?

Just take of the Boost controller and see what it does, if it holds boost, you know its the AEM Boost controller
Yes, it will hold perfectly without the controller, there may be a little fluctuation but not much.
Old 04-08-2009, 09:58 AM
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Make sure your true boost is set with a low cracking pressure. I had to set mine to 2psi. If you hear it oscillate at wot the crack is to close to the peak setting and the controller is spazzing out.
Old 04-08-2009, 09:58 AM
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then you need to get a new BOOST controller, or configured wrong, either way not too bad

As far as the above post, he makes a good point I had mine set to open at 11psi for 12psi and it would go silly sometimes, I have it set to open at 10 now and it still holds 12 perfectly, its awesome the car pulls much harder with that extra 2PSI past VTEC and spools very quickly
Old 04-08-2009, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Spec_Ops2087,Apr 8 2009, 09:26 AM
It's the turbo. It's too small to hold peak boost all the way to redline...
Since I do not have a compressor map I can't rule that out 100%. He does have free flowing exhaust and a 2.2L but the original dyno tests did not indicate the he was moving enough CFM to not hold boost based on others dyno's.

My intuistion tells me to the Truboost, since the system is leak free and I am not seeing any alarming intake temperatures. What bothers me is that I had this same kit on my car made more power and was able to easily hold boost to 9000RPM. In fact when the temperature dipped it always wanted to creep.
Old 04-08-2009, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SgtB,Apr 8 2009, 09:58 AM
Make sure your true boost is set with a low cracking pressure. I had to set mine to 2psi. If you hear it oscillate at wot the crack is to close to the peak setting and the controller is spazzing out.
I had it dialed in at about 3.5lb
Old 04-08-2009, 10:14 AM
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3.5, maybe thats the problem, why do you want it to start to open at 3.5psi??????

I dont know how the AEM works, but if I understand this correctly you want the W/G to open at 3.5psi?

1. The W/G spring is the lowest you can start to open isnt it?
2. Why would you want to start to open the W.G that early? try 2-3psi below desired


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