Grannas T56 Magnum F Kit Install
#1
Grannas T56 Magnum F Kit Install
Hello all,
I have been getting tons of requests regarding the new T56 Magnum F swap that has been newly released by Grannas for our cars. I believe I am one of the first, if not THE first to have an entire kit from him. Special thanks to Art of Assembly for being my retailer for the kit. Roman and his team have helped me a TON with my nightmare of a project. Reach out if you're interested in a T56 kit! Maybe you'll catch a deal A little background about my build... its a fully built 2.2 with a 7285 pushing 50psi of boost at 9500rpm (check signature for more details.) I previously had a BMW DCT in the car but was never able to get it working to my liking, but that's a story for another time. This car will push the T56 swap to the limit and see how it survives.
This is the most complete transmission swap kit money can buy. Grannas includes 98% of what you need to get this thing in your car and running well. The kit includes:
BRAND new T56 Magnum F capable of holding 700tq and shifting at 9000+rpm. One year factory warranty on the transmission
Tilton 215mm organic twin with max tq of 850 lbfts. This is a beautiful piece. Both discs are organic and sprung which in theory means it will be quiet and a breeze to drive. I'm willing to bet it will drive awesome once all installed in the car.
Tilton flywheel and ARP hardware
Tilton 6000 series hydro release bearing
Tilton Clutch master cylinder with lines hardware and adaptor
Trans mount with Prothane bushing and hardware
Shift knob and lever
Billet alignment tool
Indexing plate
VSS wiring harness and Bluetooth speedo readout
The money piece, Grannas cast aluminum housing from s2000 to T56. A thick chunk of aluminum that will keep noise down and vibrations to a minimum.
I cannot stress this enough, ALL NEW HARDWARE is included for every part of the install.
I will keep this thread updated throughout the week and post more details of install, weights of things, and anything else I run into or other things people would like to know. I personally opted out from the DSS driveshaft as I already had a custom shaft in my car from before. The only thing that I see myself having to buy outside of this kit is the fluid for the trans. I'll also be using a magnus clutch slipper for drag purposes.
Now some may ask, why a T56? 1. Grannas has proven the T56 in his JZ cars for years. These things are strong and shift at high RPM no issue. 2. The NEW magnum F trans was release in 2019. Read about it here! Its a whole new updated design. 3. When I choose to upgrade to dog engagement gears, the cost is under $3000 for a 1-4 gear set. 4. S1 sells a sequential shifter for if you wanna get real spicy. 5. The gear ratios as shown below from my calculator lend themselves perfectly for a drag car. 6. The list goes on, but that was what was on my mind when I purchased my kit.
How much does it cost?! ALL in after everything and accessories, expect $9000 or so. Please feel free to ask questions as I keep this thread updated throughout the week.
Revving to 9k with a 4.1 final drive
I have been getting tons of requests regarding the new T56 Magnum F swap that has been newly released by Grannas for our cars. I believe I am one of the first, if not THE first to have an entire kit from him. Special thanks to Art of Assembly for being my retailer for the kit. Roman and his team have helped me a TON with my nightmare of a project. Reach out if you're interested in a T56 kit! Maybe you'll catch a deal A little background about my build... its a fully built 2.2 with a 7285 pushing 50psi of boost at 9500rpm (check signature for more details.) I previously had a BMW DCT in the car but was never able to get it working to my liking, but that's a story for another time. This car will push the T56 swap to the limit and see how it survives.
This is the most complete transmission swap kit money can buy. Grannas includes 98% of what you need to get this thing in your car and running well. The kit includes:
BRAND new T56 Magnum F capable of holding 700tq and shifting at 9000+rpm. One year factory warranty on the transmission
Tilton 215mm organic twin with max tq of 850 lbfts. This is a beautiful piece. Both discs are organic and sprung which in theory means it will be quiet and a breeze to drive. I'm willing to bet it will drive awesome once all installed in the car.
Tilton flywheel and ARP hardware
Tilton 6000 series hydro release bearing
Tilton Clutch master cylinder with lines hardware and adaptor
Trans mount with Prothane bushing and hardware
Shift knob and lever
Billet alignment tool
Indexing plate
VSS wiring harness and Bluetooth speedo readout
The money piece, Grannas cast aluminum housing from s2000 to T56. A thick chunk of aluminum that will keep noise down and vibrations to a minimum.
I cannot stress this enough, ALL NEW HARDWARE is included for every part of the install.
I will keep this thread updated throughout the week and post more details of install, weights of things, and anything else I run into or other things people would like to know. I personally opted out from the DSS driveshaft as I already had a custom shaft in my car from before. The only thing that I see myself having to buy outside of this kit is the fluid for the trans. I'll also be using a magnus clutch slipper for drag purposes.
Now some may ask, why a T56? 1. Grannas has proven the T56 in his JZ cars for years. These things are strong and shift at high RPM no issue. 2. The NEW magnum F trans was release in 2019. Read about it here! Its a whole new updated design. 3. When I choose to upgrade to dog engagement gears, the cost is under $3000 for a 1-4 gear set. 4. S1 sells a sequential shifter for if you wanna get real spicy. 5. The gear ratios as shown below from my calculator lend themselves perfectly for a drag car. 6. The list goes on, but that was what was on my mind when I purchased my kit.
How much does it cost?! ALL in after everything and accessories, expect $9000 or so. Please feel free to ask questions as I keep this thread updated throughout the week.
Revving to 9k with a 4.1 final drive
Last edited by MaxSorin; 08-14-2022 at 05:13 PM.
#4
It was fun helping Max unload this baby out of his car today. The shifter feels very good. However it is going to be more notchy than an OEM S2000, I don't really feel it is a turn off though. I recommended he use the included shift knob that came with the Grannas kit. A solid metal shift knob might be a bit much for your hand to bear over a long drive. The shifting effort feels light, but when it hits that detent to hold the gear in place you can feel the actual weight of the shifter. Perhaps I am reading into it too much, a better evaluation will come once I can sit in the car.
Also, Max states the 215 hold 850 trq. I know that is stated in paperwork for the larger 246 diameter clutch kit with organic material, however the 215 technically should support less than 850 given it has less surface area.
Overall, I'm quite impressed with the Grannas kit, it appears to have everything needed.
Also, Max states the 215 hold 850 trq. I know that is stated in paperwork for the larger 246 diameter clutch kit with organic material, however the 215 technically should support less than 850 given it has less surface area.
Overall, I'm quite impressed with the Grannas kit, it appears to have everything needed.
#5
Looks and sounds like a great option. I'll be curious to see how it fits in the trans tunnel. I wonder how hard it would be to make an optional K-series adapter too. I have a feeling many high power S2k chassis will be K series in the future.
#6
Day 2: Measuring weights, flywheel install, and finding runout... and tunnel pounding
As promised here is the weight of the main parts of the kit...
Flywheel comes in at a lightweight 12.6 lbs!
Full tilton twin clutch assembly- 16.8 lbs
Grannas Aluminum bellhousing- 21.2lbs
T56 Magnum F- 139lbs with box. About 130lbs dry without box, not bad compared to my DCT which was a back breaking 180ish
After weighing everything today I decided I'd install the flywheel and measure the runout with the index plate. I've never indexed a housing before, but I followed
video by Holley and they explained it all very clearly. I ended up having a maximum runout of .0015" or so which is EXTREMELY good. The supplied ARP bolts for the flywheel are a tad shorter than the OEM bolts and also use a 19mm head instead. Since the bolts are shorter, I did not use the metal washer that Honda used. Torque 30>60>94 accordingly. Also installed the pilot bearing. The last two images I'm trying to show where the trans tunnel will need some persuasion to get the trans to fit. Its damn close. Also, my driver side has already been pounded when I used the DCT, so my trans tunnel overall is larger than your typical tunnel. I also tried showing the runout setup but if you're seriously doing this just watch the video I linked above. I personally used fresh dowel pins from Honda. Hoping to get majority of the work done tomorrow.
As promised here is the weight of the main parts of the kit...
Flywheel comes in at a lightweight 12.6 lbs!
Full tilton twin clutch assembly- 16.8 lbs
Grannas Aluminum bellhousing- 21.2lbs
T56 Magnum F- 139lbs with box. About 130lbs dry without box, not bad compared to my DCT which was a back breaking 180ish
After weighing everything today I decided I'd install the flywheel and measure the runout with the index plate. I've never indexed a housing before, but I followed
Trending Topics
#8
Days 3 4 and 5... This post will be all over the place as I did a whole lot.
Getting the transmission in the car was of medium difficulty. If you don't have experience I would consider this a challenge. This is a push style clutch. The hydraulic throw-out bearing clearance needs to be measured using. I used tiltons
.
I also went back and put on the factory washer for the flywheel. It evenly distributes the load for each bolt. Still torque to OEM spec.
Installed the pressure plate and discs. USE THE ALIGHNMENT TOOL. The discs must be aligned for you to be able to slide the transmission in through the splines of the discs. I had to redo a lot of work because my clutch discs became misaligned. Torque the 6mm bolts to 18 ftlbs and use blue or orange loctite. NOT RED. This might take multiple torque sequences as you're torqueing a spring. Remember that.
2. Measure the HTOB clearance using the video linked above. My measurements below. I believe all s2000s using this kit should be similar. I'll update the post when I know for sure if I measured correctly and the TOB and clutch function as they should.
3. Set the antirotation stud and loctite it in place. I ended up using the longer of the two bolts.
4. MAKE SURE THE BLEEDER IS ON THE TOP OF THE TOB. Install the bleeder.
5. Massage and clearance the tunnel. Personally I used and air hammer. Works awesome. Highly suggest trying to get your hands on one. Its hard to say exactly what needs to be massaged but I tried my best to show in the photos.
Reverse lockout solenoid. Need to clearance the tunnel here too. I'm gonna try with a prybar as Grannas recommended in one of his Supra vids.
Other things to keep in mind. Fill the trans BEFORE slapping it in the car. Way easier that way. I used the cheapest DEX3 ATF fluid I could find for break in period as per Grannas. Break in is 4-5 heat cycles and around 200 miles. Then switch toTremec MTF or similar.
Another thing to do. INSTALL THE BELLHOUSING BEFORE THE TRANSMISSION. Then bolt the transmission onto the bell. this will save you a world of pain.
Install the prothane mount
Shifter sits pretty:
Other photos I took. I had already cut the trans support from when I had my DCT. Not sure if this is needed to do or not
Getting the transmission in the car was of medium difficulty. If you don't have experience I would consider this a challenge. This is a push style clutch. The hydraulic throw-out bearing clearance needs to be measured using. I used tiltons
I also went back and put on the factory washer for the flywheel. It evenly distributes the load for each bolt. Still torque to OEM spec.
Installed the pressure plate and discs. USE THE ALIGHNMENT TOOL. The discs must be aligned for you to be able to slide the transmission in through the splines of the discs. I had to redo a lot of work because my clutch discs became misaligned. Torque the 6mm bolts to 18 ftlbs and use blue or orange loctite. NOT RED. This might take multiple torque sequences as you're torqueing a spring. Remember that.
2. Measure the HTOB clearance using the video linked above. My measurements below. I believe all s2000s using this kit should be similar. I'll update the post when I know for sure if I measured correctly and the TOB and clutch function as they should.
3. Set the antirotation stud and loctite it in place. I ended up using the longer of the two bolts.
4. MAKE SURE THE BLEEDER IS ON THE TOP OF THE TOB. Install the bleeder.
5. Massage and clearance the tunnel. Personally I used and air hammer. Works awesome. Highly suggest trying to get your hands on one. Its hard to say exactly what needs to be massaged but I tried my best to show in the photos.
Reverse lockout solenoid. Need to clearance the tunnel here too. I'm gonna try with a prybar as Grannas recommended in one of his Supra vids.
Other things to keep in mind. Fill the trans BEFORE slapping it in the car. Way easier that way. I used the cheapest DEX3 ATF fluid I could find for break in period as per Grannas. Break in is 4-5 heat cycles and around 200 miles. Then switch toTremec MTF or similar.
Another thing to do. INSTALL THE BELLHOUSING BEFORE THE TRANSMISSION. Then bolt the transmission onto the bell. this will save you a world of pain.
Install the prothane mount
Shifter sits pretty:
Other photos I took. I had already cut the trans support from when I had my DCT. Not sure if this is needed to do or not
The following users liked this post:
Soul Coughing (08-15-2022)
#9
Looks like a really nice setup, but curious why you didn't just go with the Samsonas dog and chose your gearing? Plus with the Samsonas, it has a reduction gear that you can easily swap out for different events; 1/8th mile, 1/4 mile, 1/2 mile, etc and reduction gears are only $500. It also fits the tunnel without any mods and the cost is around the same. The Samsonas also weighs about 50 lbs less and utilizes the stock s2k bell and can handle around 1800 hp.. This is the route I chose over my previous T56 RPM/Gforce kit.
Not dogging the decision you made, just curious on the choice.
Not dogging the decision you made, just curious on the choice.
Last edited by Spoolin; 08-19-2022 at 05:00 AM.
#10
Looks like a really nice setup, but curious why you didn't just go with the Samsonas dog and chose your gearing? Plus with the Samsonas, it has a reduction gear that you can easily swap out for different events; 1/8th mile, 1/4 mile, 1/2 mile, etc and reduction gears are only $500. It also fits the tunnel without any mods and the cost is around the same. The Samsonas also weighs about 50 lbs less and utilizes the stock s2k bell and can handle around 1800 hp.. This is the route I chose over my previous T56 RPM/Gforce kit.
Not dogging the decision you made, just curious on the choice.
Not dogging the decision you made, just curious on the choice.
The following users liked this post:
Spoolin (09-07-2022)