Getting some boost spiking now in high RPM's
06-26-2008, 07:27 PM
#21
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Checked my tru boost today for maximum boost achieved and it wasat 10.9 PSI. I seem to be getting a momentary boost spike with the HFC and Greddy 70 single. 
Now I got to make some decisions about if I want to leave it or what exactly I want to do before I get it tuned.
Now I got to make some decisions about if I want to leave it or what exactly I want to do before I get it tuned.
06-27-2008, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC,Jun 26 2008, 09:28 PM
Well, if you get a headgasket, you can creep all day long.
I was really hoping I wouldnt have these issues with the HFC and 70 single.
06-27-2008, 06:15 AM
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Paid attention to the gauge this morning coming into work and did a few pulls. All the spiking to 10-10.9 is happening between 8-9K RPM. All other rpms and I really dont see any spiking past 9 and it is usually around 7.5-8 psi. The boost pressure really fluctuates a lot though, bouncing all over the place +/- a pound of boost or so.
06-27-2008, 06:17 AM
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hmm odd; i dont even run a boost controller and with stock cat and 70mm exhaust i hit 7-8 psi at redline
i would try adjusting the wastegate actuator arm..that was my issue..
i would try adjusting the wastegate actuator arm..that was my issue..
06-27-2008, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by devs2k,Jun 27 2008, 06:17 AM
hmm odd; i dont even run a boost controller and with stock cat and 70mm exhaust i hit 7-8 psi at redline
i would try adjusting the wastegate actuator arm..that was my issue..
i would try adjusting the wastegate actuator arm..that was my issue..
These are the flow comparisons below...
Test pipe 100%
Berk High Flow cat 84%
Stock cat 46%
06-27-2008, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by TRBOKEV,Jun 27 2008, 11:10 AM
I have the Berk high flow cat. It flows twice as much as an OEM cat.
These are the flow comparisons below...
Test pipe 100%
Berk High Flow cat 84%
Stock cat 46%
These are the flow comparisons below...
Test pipe 100%
Berk High Flow cat 84%
Stock cat 46%
06-27-2008, 07:31 AM
#28
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From Chris Lum
For future reference, here is the procedure to check to make sure your actuator is set correctly:
1. While the turbo is off the car, remove the C clip securing the actuator arm to the wastegate flapper arm.
2. loosen the 10mm lock nut on the actuator arm.
3. At this point you will notice that there is slight tension on the actuator arm if you try to pull it off.
4. Pull the actuator arm free from the wastegate flapper arm.Twist (loosen) the end of the actuator arm so that the arm lengthens to the point where it can slide off and on to the flapper arm freely.
5. From this point, turn the end of the actuator arm back (shorten), 3.5 turns.
6. The actuator arm should not easily slide onto the wastegate flapper arm, so now there is a slight bit of tension. Pull on the actuator arm if you need to, in order to get it onto the wastegate flapper arm. Tighten the lock nut back up against the actuator arm. TRBOKEV I SUSPECT YOU HAVE TOO MUCH TENSION HERE, WHICH DELAYS THE OPENING OF THE FLAPPER VALVE
7. Put the C clip back on to secure the actuator arm and you're done.
8. To test this, you can get a mechanical boost gauge, an air compressor and a 3 way fitting and test when the actuator arm starts to move. It should start to move at about 8-8.5 psi.
1. While the turbo is off the car, remove the C clip securing the actuator arm to the wastegate flapper arm.
2. loosen the 10mm lock nut on the actuator arm.
3. At this point you will notice that there is slight tension on the actuator arm if you try to pull it off.
4. Pull the actuator arm free from the wastegate flapper arm.Twist (loosen) the end of the actuator arm so that the arm lengthens to the point where it can slide off and on to the flapper arm freely.
5. From this point, turn the end of the actuator arm back (shorten), 3.5 turns.
6. The actuator arm should not easily slide onto the wastegate flapper arm, so now there is a slight bit of tension. Pull on the actuator arm if you need to, in order to get it onto the wastegate flapper arm. Tighten the lock nut back up against the actuator arm. TRBOKEV I SUSPECT YOU HAVE TOO MUCH TENSION HERE, WHICH DELAYS THE OPENING OF THE FLAPPER VALVE
7. Put the C clip back on to secure the actuator arm and you're done.
8. To test this, you can get a mechanical boost gauge, an air compressor and a 3 way fitting and test when the actuator arm starts to move. It should start to move at about 8-8.5 psi.
06-27-2008, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by devs2k,Jun 27 2008, 07:25 AM
yes you are right.. i would still try adjusting the actuator arm.. the tension on that was the cause of my spiking issue at one point during installation..
I didnt get this problem with the OEM cat or the stock exhaust or the same setup with the silencer installed.
06-27-2008, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by TRBOKEV,Jun 27 2008, 01:06 PM
Thanks for the help, I'll check it out. Do I really have to take the turbo off or can I do it on the car? It's going to be a PITA to take it off the car.
I didnt get this problem with the OEM cat or the stock exhaust or the same setup with the silencer installed.
I didnt get this problem with the OEM cat or the stock exhaust or the same setup with the silencer installed.
unfortunately its one of those things that will be trial and error