Comptech Supercharger, very dissappointed!
#11
As a rule of thumb, grab the belt half way down between SC pulley and crank pulley with your thumb and index finger (its a tight squeeze but you can get your hand in), you should be able to twist the belt no more than 45 degrees with a bit of difficulty.
Definitely something wrong even at 5psi you can feel it!.
Definitely something wrong even at 5psi you can feel it!.
#14
Used kit or new?
The silicone hoses tight?
ESM wired correctly? Soldered?
Air pump hooked up to intercooler? Bypass valve hooked to vacuum source and working? Any hols in the intercooler that are not filled with something?
The fuel pressure regulator is installed, right?
While the difference isn't radical to a driver, it is VERY apparent to any passenger I've had. What a driver WILL notice is the revs climb faster, and other cars are farther back than usual. That, and you hit 60mph MUCH faster than you remember. I was initially disappointed in the lack of "pull" that I expected going in but the results are definitely there, at least in my case (Stage 1 SOS kit). I'm super-happy with my supercharger kit.
Also, you need something to read AFRs...in fact I'd get that before a boost gauge. Leaning out doesn't always mean you will notice detonation. If the kit you have is for a 2.2L and you have a 2.0L, you are literally going to be drowning it in fuel and making pathetic power, and VERY lean if the opposite.
Also, I'd put an AFR and fuel pressure gauge as more important than a boost gauge. AFR and fuel pressure will tell you more than a boost gauge will. In fact, if your FPR is working right, you'll even know what your boost is.
And, even if you have it working right and make +90HP and are not happy with perceived performance...you still picked up 90HP.
The silicone hoses tight?
ESM wired correctly? Soldered?
Air pump hooked up to intercooler? Bypass valve hooked to vacuum source and working? Any hols in the intercooler that are not filled with something?
The fuel pressure regulator is installed, right?
While the difference isn't radical to a driver, it is VERY apparent to any passenger I've had. What a driver WILL notice is the revs climb faster, and other cars are farther back than usual. That, and you hit 60mph MUCH faster than you remember. I was initially disappointed in the lack of "pull" that I expected going in but the results are definitely there, at least in my case (Stage 1 SOS kit). I'm super-happy with my supercharger kit.
Also, you need something to read AFRs...in fact I'd get that before a boost gauge. Leaning out doesn't always mean you will notice detonation. If the kit you have is for a 2.2L and you have a 2.0L, you are literally going to be drowning it in fuel and making pathetic power, and VERY lean if the opposite.
Also, I'd put an AFR and fuel pressure gauge as more important than a boost gauge. AFR and fuel pressure will tell you more than a boost gauge will. In fact, if your FPR is working right, you'll even know what your boost is.
And, even if you have it working right and make +90HP and are not happy with perceived performance...you still picked up 90HP.
#15
UPDATE: Well I hook up a boost gauge to it and retightened the belt and with that done, it is seeing a solid 5-5.5 psi at 9000 rpms. After that being done, I can tell a noticable improvement over 6,000 rpms, but even still though, I could not see paying 6,000 dollars for this supecharger kit new. With that being said, I am eventually going to install a wideband 02 sensor so that I can possibly fine tune the rising rate fuel pressure regulator if it can be adjusted at all...
A nice addition, but in my honest opinion, I would put the time and money into a quality turbocharger system or an Eaton MP62. (I have built three turbo Miatas vs two supercharged Miatas' and I was always exceptionally pleased with the drivability of the turbo)
If someone wanted to trade straight up, I think I would be much more satisfied with a positive displacement type supercharger setup (Roots, Screw Type) Not to mention that Roots Blower whine, gosh its addictive.)
With all this being said, don't take it totally wrong, its a well crafted kit, great bracketry, really attractive under the hood, but I knew what I was getting into with a centrifugal, and the common-sensable part of me reminded me that they are good for large displacement engines with great torque output already, not so much on 4-cylinders.
Who knows though, perhaps a new clutch, comptech header and exhaust, and a fine tune for a solid 11:5-12:1 AFR will really make it move...
Even still though, SOS stage 2 looks to be a must...
A nice addition, but in my honest opinion, I would put the time and money into a quality turbocharger system or an Eaton MP62. (I have built three turbo Miatas vs two supercharged Miatas' and I was always exceptionally pleased with the drivability of the turbo)
If someone wanted to trade straight up, I think I would be much more satisfied with a positive displacement type supercharger setup (Roots, Screw Type) Not to mention that Roots Blower whine, gosh its addictive.)
With all this being said, don't take it totally wrong, its a well crafted kit, great bracketry, really attractive under the hood, but I knew what I was getting into with a centrifugal, and the common-sensable part of me reminded me that they are good for large displacement engines with great torque output already, not so much on 4-cylinders.
Who knows though, perhaps a new clutch, comptech header and exhaust, and a fine tune for a solid 11:5-12:1 AFR will really make it move...
Even still though, SOS stage 2 looks to be a must...
#17
What it needs is a solid 5.5 psi from 5000 rpms to redline. Here are some pics of the install. (Do notice that the aftercooler watercooling has not been installed yet, and who knows, when its 98 degrees outside, I may gain some significant improvement with intercooling.)
#18
Not having the aftercooler hooked up would make a pretty noticeable difference. My car felt super sluggish when the aftercooler pump got disconnected. Your intake temps are probably around 150+. With the pump working etc should be right around 110 on the highway or so when moving quickly.
#19
Not having the aftercooler hooked up would make a pretty noticeable difference. My car felt super sluggish when the aftercooler pump got disconnected. Your intake temps are probably around 150+. With the pump working etc should be right around 110 on the highway or so when moving quickly.
#20
I'd think even with a dedicated reservoir heat soak will set in...or at least it won't help much. The heat exchanger does its job, and the air coming from that goes right to the aftercooler. It could be useful if you filled it with ice water, though
I can also confirm on a highway, my intake air temps are about 115F at 85F ambient. Sitting and idling for a while they will creep up to 160F, though. The temps lower quickly when air is moving over the heat exchanger. Without an aftercooler, you're going to be up in that area full-time, and power will definitely suffer.
I'd say give the kit a chance. A ~6psi kit is a good start, but more boost is where it really shines. In the future I'll be going with a standalone, injectors, and smaller pulley for sure. A turbo will yield more down low, but it doesn't have the turn-key-ness the SC does. The roots option for this car doesn't really have a great high-end, either.
I can also confirm on a highway, my intake air temps are about 115F at 85F ambient. Sitting and idling for a while they will creep up to 160F, though. The temps lower quickly when air is moving over the heat exchanger. Without an aftercooler, you're going to be up in that area full-time, and power will definitely suffer.
I'd say give the kit a chance. A ~6psi kit is a good start, but more boost is where it really shines. In the future I'll be going with a standalone, injectors, and smaller pulley for sure. A turbo will yield more down low, but it doesn't have the turn-key-ness the SC does. The roots option for this car doesn't really have a great high-end, either.